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Showing results for tags 'kickstart shaft'.
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Kickstart shaft, rub marks. The kickstart shaft, rubbing the clutch plate is a common problem. Reasons I found for this problem: a. Some original side case gaskets were designed thicker. b. The kickstart shaft washer, maybe damaged are missing, causing the shaft to move deeper into the side case. c. Aftermarket kickstart shafts: Back in the day, one of the manufacture made a batch of kickstart shaft that broke easy. After that I started to see a beefy kickstart shaft. Some of these shafts would lockup the motor. Here’s the steps I take when I see marks on the kickstart shaft: 1. Check to see if the kickstart shaft washer is installed correctly. If you see a gap at this point. That’s a problem. What happens is, the pedal spring tries to push out the kickstart shaft, causing a gap. 2. There should be a circlip and washer here. 3. If the circlip and washer don’t close the gap in picture 1, you may need to add additional washers here. After the steps above are taken. Use a marker, and paint the top clutch plate. Put the gasket and side case on with a few nuts and tighten them down. Take out the spark plug. Then, kick the motor over several times. If it rubs, it will show up on the black clutch plate, and kickstart shaft. Here’s the number one problem, most of the time. A poor designed kickstart shaft: 4. If you replace your kickstart shaft with an aftermarket shaft. It will most likely rub, unless you modify it. This is the original kickstart shaft from a 1980s Jet200 with the rub marks. Some, original kickstart shaft were made bad also. Here’s an example of a kickstart shaft I modified, using a basic grinder. This will fix the problem and shouldn’t weaken the shaft, if done correctly. Steps to take when grinding the kickstart shaft: g1. This area on the shaft, is all you need to modify. g3. This side view shows the depth to grind. As you can see. You don’t touch the core (strength) part of the kickstart shaft. g4. You can grind down to the very edge, shown in blue. g5. Never grind down to the main shaft rod! I hope this tutorial helps. Because I keep coming across, poorly made kickstart shafts, that need to be modify. AnthonyADX - 2015 Kickstart shaft fix. AnthonyScooterWork.com GetBent-sc.com
WhatUp Lambretta club! I already wrote about the kickstart shaft rubbing before. I replace the kickstart shaft shim and circlip, but the problem keeps coming back after a year. I purchase extra seems to stack them, but it never worked like I wanted it to. The problem keeps happening at this point, where the circlip come off or the shim beans inwards. I pulled the side case cover and found these marks. I wouldn’t have checked for this problem but started hearing a small grinding sound coming from the side case area. I would hear the sounds from time to time. I flipped the shim over and that fixed the problem, but in a year the problem would come back. I need a shim to fit around the circlip, then stack a stock shim on top. The quick fix was staring me right in the face, I couldn’t believe I didn’t see it before. Use a bigger circlip around the smaller one. The way its designed, its not going anywhere. It will stay in place! Then stack another original shim on top. When you put the kickstart lever on, get it pretty snug but not too tight so the lever can move freely. The way it fits now, you shouldn’t get anymore movement out of the kickstart shaft. Most of the pressure is now on the outer edge, not in the center where the problem keeps happening. This little quick fix was done with parts sitting there, in my garage. Anthony D Armstrong Dallas, Texas
So it looks like my kickstart shaft has been rubbing against the clutch plate pretty badly. I read about this in Sticky's, but this is my first Lambretta so I've never dealt with this before. I'll be replacing the top plate, but does this kick start shaft need to be replaced? Has it's strength been compromised?