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Currently Owned Lambrettas

Found 6 results

  1. I have never seen a 175 bore with a carb exiting on the kickstart side. i'm sure there's been some, somewhere, somehow, some why, but i'm thinking Ts1/imola in an otherwise crack-price scoot. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/mcy/5765958855.html
  2. During the winter, when I was finally stripping my 1969 GP200 engine case I noticed slight, hairline cracks and small holes around where I had the case welded many years before, as I had bought it as a non runner and it was indeed with a big, gaping hole in the crankcase in the crank area. I sent the engine to Taffspeed for repair and tuning. They had the case welded and repaired and then rebuilt it as a Honda 205 conversion. That later became a TS1 200, then a 225, 230 and sooner or later, a TS1 240. That was the plan anyway, until I noticed the cracks on the case. Money is tight here in Poland, the currency doesn't buy much and there are no local Lambretta specialists. Fortunately, I had a two week working stint in England and I brought the case with me, then sent it to MB. I told him not to hurry as there was now no way I could get the engine and bike sorted for this year's Euro Lambretta. I had intended to ride it, very fast, to Austria and back. It was going to be a 60 mm stroke x 71 mm bore RaceTour MB ported TS1. The cylinder is done, ceramic lined and ready and sitting in my parts bin. I've bought a 60 mm x 110 mm BGM full circle crank and an MB Big Head, his big, square, center plug racing head that he machined for my engine. But then I was unsure about the engine case and I wanted an engineer to have a look at it. Mark just messaged me that the case had sagged around the welding repair, making it difficult or impossible to seal the mag flange. He thinks it may have been this way for a long time. I wonder if that might be the reason behind the unreliability of the scooter over so many years. The WCLW built TS1 in my street racer is still going strong and I'm amazed by its reliability though it's true that I work on it often - a top end inspection and maybe a new set of rings is overdue and I'll get that done before June and Austria. But my GP200 has never been reliable. As a Honda 205 it seized dramatically as I rode it to Euro Lambretta 2000, as a TS1 200 it threw piston rings twice, then after the cylinder was bored out to 70 mm and 225 cc it threw a ring again after seizing on the motorway. It always had problems on long, fast rides. I always thought that these problems were due to my own stupidity, but maybe, maybe, when hot, the mag flange would leak and problems would ensue. The good news is that MB has repaired the engine case and the price was shockingly low. He's ready to send it back to me but I'll wait until I'm back in England so the shipping costs will be less and I can carry the case with me on the plane, or to my flat, depending on if I decide to stay in Blighty. And hopefully, my mango orange GP200 will be back on the road as a bloody fast tourer. I hope to pull a 4.7 or maybe 4.6 : 1 final drive ratio with good horsepower and torque without overheating. Maybe I'll run it fully exposed and shave the flywheel. I intend to run a scoop to funnel more air direct to the cylinder head. In the meantime, I'm "preparing" my street racer for the ride to Austria. That amounts to inspecting the top end, ring gap and reeds, and buying any spares I may need, and raising the gearing to 17 x 48 for 4.8 :1 final drive ratio as Andy Francis told me his Franspeed Race exhaust on a TS1 can pull this one-up. The plan is to truck the scooters to Southern Poland and ride from there, through the mountains of Poland, The Czech Republic, and Austria and down to Ebensee. I don't want to waste time and fuel riding across the flat of the land with the crazy car and lorry driving antics for which this place is famous. I'm sorry for the long post but my camera is down and if a picture is worth a thousand words I've still many more to write.
  3. I have been a bit lazy and back when I swapped exhausts to the current one, a Franspeed Race, I neglected to re-jet the carburetor. As I only did Wide Open Throttle, main jet runs only once in a while and for short distances, and the performance of the engine has been quite good, I assumed that the jetting was "good enough". I was wrong. In fact, my whole thinking was wrong. I thought running a lean main jet and using a good needle setting was the way to go as being confined to a city with very fast drivers I needed acceleration and I could cruise "on the needle" at 1/4 to 3/4 throttle. And that's what I have been doing, with no seizures due to careful riding. But I have not been confident at WOT use the rear brake to slow the engine revs before closing the throttle and pulling the clutch and revving the engine to cool down the piston with fuel. That all changed after finally installing a choke cable, an extra short one from Andy Francis, to fit my large fuel tank and carb. As the roads here are too choked with traffic during the day to do plug chops and there are really no safe roads to them anyway, I thought I could use the choke to see if my jetting was too lean. Riding at WOT and turning on the choke found the scooter acceleration much harder, meaning one of two things: my main jet was too lean or there is an air leak. I checked at 1/4 throttle, 1/2 throttle, and using the choke at the same time made the jetting far too rich to run smoothly. Only starting at 3/4 throttle did it increase the revs and power and sounded far more healthier. I should have at least set the main jet but had no time as my friend Piotr and I were planning to go to a scooter rally in southern Poland and I had to work late nights right up to the night before we were to leave. Because we were trucking our scooters to the rally, I decided to jet it later as I could still ride it safely and it was reliable. When we got to the rally, the weather was so nice and having had missed the rideout, I decided to rejet my carb right away. The main jet that was in there was a 330. I was running 330 main, 6EN 11-57 needle on the 2nd leanest setting, and a 22.5 pilot jet. There was nothing wrong with the idle circuit so I left that and turned my attention to the main jet. I know I should have used my biggest main jet and worked my way down, I did the opposite as it had run so well with the choke engaged. So I put in a 340 main, and rode it at WOT then engaged the choke. It still ran better with the choke. Ok, then a 350. No, not rich enough. Then I decided to go richer and hopefully work down with a 370 main jet. What a difference!The bike had more power and ran much more smoothly at WOT and sounded much less stressed. I could hold the throttle open but I ran out of straight road very quickly. However, turning on the choke, while not making it run better, didn't make it run worse. Maybe a 380 main jet would be the one. The needle would need adjustment or changing as it was now too rich, but by then it was getting late and the rideout was returning, so I left it as it was for the next day's rideout.
  4. Casa Lambretta with their partners in this new venture, BSG and Parmakit, up the ante on Lambretta engine development with a new fully CNC machined from billet crankcase with case reed valve and 305 cc for up to 60 hp. It looks like it can be run with chain or direct drive. So that's why Vittorio was demoing his direct drive system last year. The prototype cylinder, 305 cc Soon to be tested at Rimini Lambretta Centre. Discuss......
  5. Hi all, I hope you had a very nice Thanksgiving holiday and avoided the grey Thursday marketing blitz. I had Thanksgiving at my friend Piotr's apartment and it was very nice of them to invite me over. I rode the street racer across town and the river to Praga on the east bank of the Vistula. It was about -5 degrees C so a cold ride. My fingertips especially got chilled when riding fast even though I drove through the city center to reduce the amount of fast riding I had to do. I stayed the night as we had some wine with the dinner. In Poland it is illegal to drive after consuming any amount of alcohol. I awoke early on Friday morning and I had to be at an early lesson not far from my flat but quite far from Piotr's. The lesson started at 7:30 am so after coffee I left around 6:40 am, too late to avoid the morning rush hour but at least in its early hours. It helped that after the city center I was going in the opposite direction compared to most of the cars on the road. The temp was even colder and I froze my fingertips even worse than the night before. I got to my lesson on time. but with very frozen fingertips. My left pinkie fingertip is still a little numb, so that was definitely a case of frostbite. Since then, I've rode into work a few times and yesterday I rode into the city center and back, for a meeting with a client and an evening business lesson. I had used electrical tape to cover all the seams and fabric panels in my winter riding gloves, and it seemed to help a little. I rode back pretty quickly, and accelerated fairly hard most of the way (from the many, many stop lights on my way home). There's a fast section or two where you can pretty much drive as fast as you can, and this is where I suppose I was doing between 75 and 80 mph, maybe a little more but I don't like riding on the main jet too much as I haven't replaced it with a richer one for the colder air this time of year. And my winter gloves are crap, letting in too much air from the environment. They have been downgraded to Autumn gloves. The scooter is running the clutch from my GP200. Yes, a further cannibalization! Not entirely. I rebuilt the clutch with a new BGM 4 plate kit, MB springs and an AF center spring. It's a poor man's heavy clutch but it no longer slips. Next year, both scooters will be rocking 6 plate clutch kits. So far, my gearbox rebuild has held together and survived my "riding style" wich is mostly WOT acceleration runs followed by fast cruising (fast as in high engine RPMs). Next season both scooters will also get taller sprocket combinations. Even in the city I find that 80 mph is reached too quickly and then I'm into over rev as some cars still overtake me. Pictures coming soon.
  6. OK, as the title says... ... Which Cylinder / head kit is best setup for TOURING? Needs to be able to best meet the following: What I want.. - 70 MPH cruising (two up) - Reliable - will last more than two seasons of riding What I have to use... - JL KRP3 Pipe - (OKO)PWK 24mm Carb - JET 200 Motor Just brain storming for another 200cc build. Appreciate any input regarding choice of Cylinders/heads. Kyle
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