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Everything posted by darbsclt

  1. TV Guide: Next week on Happy Days… Gustoff, the Fonz’s European cousin, visits Milwaukee and mayhem ensues. Watch as Fonzie has his hands full when Gustoff makes a surprise visit to Al's Diner. Richie and the boys are starstruck; Joanie is smitten and Chachi sees a rival.
  2. Thanks Mike... Actually, I converted the file, but still couldn't insert it (I don't even have the "insert picture" option in the menu). When I tried inserting it via a photo server link (like flicker, or Google) the links were pink highlighted and refused. I figured it was a "permissions" issue with my profile, even though my membership is current. Oh well...
  3. I've probably made smarter decisions... but... in the midst of packing for a move to the sunshine state with my fiancee, a S2 came available locally and I just couldn't pass it up. I'm told, over the last decade, it has passed through the hands of a couple club members; from Atlanta to Charlotte. Now, it will make the trip with us to Florida & give me a project to work on once we settle in. I don't have big resto plans for it right now. First, I need to go through the VT registration process, then I'll give it a good going over and make sure it's safe and steady for my fiancee. She's never ridden a scooter (only a motorcycle - and only enough to get her license endorsement). I'll leave the paint & body as is for now and I'll decide about the engine after I've ridden it a little more. IMG_5435.HEIC Edit: I can't figure out how to insert a photo (I've only been successful in attaching it).
  4. I had my S1 column repaired and powder coated locally for ~$50 . To do it properly, you need the brass bushing that lines the locking pin chamber. I had a bushing made by a guy in Thailand and it worked perfectly. The brass bushings vary by model... but Eric at 2nd Ave Scooters ordered some with mine and, I believe, can even do the repair for you. Here's Eric's link to the bushings. I'll attach a pdf showing the S1 repair conducted by Pek (the guy in Thailand). I printed this this for my local welder and it was all he needed. Here's Pek's Facebook page: Lambretta Care Services. I seem to recall that, somewhere in his FB pictures, Pek shows how to repair a S3 steering lock. If memory serves, it's essentially same except that the bushing is pressed in. (EDIT: I've added a PDF of the S3 repair) Steering Lock Repair.pdf S3 Steering Lock Repair.pdf
  5. Thanks Andrew, Yes, the cities are firm and rooms booked. We'll be train hopping instead of driving... that limits our ability to venture out and about. I've given some thought to renting a scooter to do just this... but my GF was not very encouraging - I think she's concerned for her teenage daughter. A buddy of mine and his wife may tag along with us though; if so, he & I might each rent one to explore the area while the girls do something else.
  6. We've had pretty good success with ABnB and the GF has picked ABnB hosts for all of our Italian stops, including Venice. While we won't be taking an overnight train from Monterosso to Venice... I've often taken night trains through Europe and agree, it's a nice way to start a city's visit.
  7. Thanks for the comments... The girls voted for Venice over Milan... (sigh). Having already been to Milan, I couldn't really argue too much. I was hoping that there might be some interesting Scooter-related sights in the cities planned. I'd love to hit a scooter flea market in these areas but I'm having a hard time figuring out where they might be listed or if they even are.
  8. Thanks guys... I wasn't aware of the Piaggio Museum. It seems to be only 5 min from the station. Because we'll be stopping along that route in Empoli to meet up with an old work friend for lunch, the Pontedera stop looks very promising. Since I've travelled through Italy a handful of times for business... this trip is really for my GF and her daughter; hence the usual tourist destinations. I'm hopeful, however, that I can incorporate a few scooter-related stops for me. Keep the ideas coming...
  9. It looks like my GF, her daughter and I will be touring Italy this summer. Unfortunately this means no Jammy and, sadly, it won't coincide with Euro Lambretta. Still, it's Italy, right? That said, I was wondering if anyone had suggestions for scooter-related sights/sites in the following areas... Rome, Florence, Pisa, Monterosso (Cinque Terre), Venice We'll be train hopping... so any sites would need to be somewhat centrally located to these areas. I'm thinking along the lines of... groovy shops, parts flea markets, scooter/transportation museums, etc. Cheers, Charlie
  10. It's still early days... but it's held up just fine - no issues. The rubber is pretty tough* and, in this use, I don't expect that it will fail quickly. Heck, it's easy enough to check for wear. It fit snugly into the plate bracket (but did not have to be forced) and removed all of the slop. It's not the bushing I was looking for... but it was a cheap, quick fix. The other possible benefit to this rubber cap is that it seems to be a pretty universal fit (conforming itself to the slight elongations caused by the link pin wear in the plate housing). I wonder if a brass/aluminum/etc bushing will fit universally, given possible variations in "slop" from bike to bike. Oh well, time will tell. As you said, now I have a little peace of mind... *During my bike rebuild, I actually used a similar cap on the brake pedal leg/stop (the bit that hits against the frame strut). It's also held up fine (although I'm expecting this one to fail).
  11. Adam's story and picture made an impression on me back in July. Since I had some slop in my drum, prior to reinstalling the links (after having Eric @ 2nd ave weld some damper mounts on), I went to HD and walked their hardware aisle looking for a solution. It isn't what I had envisioned... but my solution was cheap and, so far, effective... It may not last as long as a brass or composite bushing... but at ¢.79 for two, I've got a spare on hand.
  12. Jane suddenly realized that she under-dressed for the party... BASIL, I thought you said it was "Top CAT and Tails"
  13. Well done!... thanks for archiving this information. I'm sure that took a lot of work to compile. Hopefully I didn't step on your toes by recommending that the club hold on to some of the mixing info - for posterity. That certainly wasn't my intention.
  14. Great walk-through & thanks for the refund of my second payment. Not sure if it's needed, but people who prefer a "belts and braces" approach might want to also look at their PayPal "Recurring Payments" page. Cancelling the recurring payment there couldn't hurt: Go into your PayPal account and navigate: (Tools -> All Tools -> Recurring Payments -> "My Pre Approved Payments") Select the LCUSA membership renewal and select Cancel.
  15. I've run into one other small issue... My renewal request (from LCUSA) came in early July... after a little difficulty, outlined above, I was able to pay via PayPal. Evidently, however, upon joining last year I was set up on an automatic "annual payment" between LCUSA and PayPal... so, yesterday, I had another $30 sucked out of my account without warning. Considering my feelings towards automatic renewal schemes, I seriously doubt I would have set this up on my own. Still, I take responsibility for not noticing/remembering it and nipping it in the bud. Can someone please refund the second membership payment that was taken from my PayPal account? Cheers! Charlie
  16. Yes... I was just thinking 'aloud' that having those mixing PDFs and code numbers archived on the club site would be better than relying on outside links. Sometimes outside links/sites disappear without notice. Just a thought...
  17. See if THIS link helps... I'm thinking it's the "Verde Mela (Apple Green)": Lechler Code 8039 - Mixing links (by volume and weight) are just to the right of the listing. I've also attached them below... 8039-v.pdf 8039-w.pdf Note to Administrators: It might be useful to archive the information on the above link (codes/mixing info) somewhere in the club technical section. Outside websites can sometimes go down without warning.
  18. I think having waterslides as an option would be a great idea and I would certainly be interested. In fact, since waterslide paper is now available for home printers, I thought about asking for a hi-res, scalable image so that I might print my own. One issue I foresaw, however, is that the logo (as it is designed now) contains white... which means white waterslide paper would need to be used (if placed on anything except a white background). that would require VERY careful trimming around the round image. I'm not sure if die cut waterslides would be available if these were made "professionally," but I think that would be one thing to consider.
  19. Yeah, Mark (or someone else on this forum) might help you pick a suitable lever. Here's another angle of mine. It meets squarely at the bumper-stop, sits proud of the outside edge of floorboard by a comfortable amount, doesn't come close to raising into the bottom of the floorboard (cutout or not), and clears the tailpipe. I'm quite pleased with it.
  20. I agree... I think you have the wrong pedal for a Series 2. I had a similar issue with my series 1, so I recently purchased THIS pedal from Mark at Scooter-speed. It fit perfectly, seems good and sturdy and has been working great. Cheers!
  21. Just to close this thread off... I'm not sure what ultimately caused this to happen, tho' I'm sure I mucked something up when I installed the hub in the first place (shaking head). In any case... this is what I did to fix it and so far (knock on wood) everything is working well. - I used a 16m die to clean up the main shaft threads - I filed clean any burs/etc on the hub splines (so that they marry up well with the main shaft splines) - I ordered/installed a beautiful new MB hub nut, MB locking ring, and thin wavy washer. Thanks Corey and everyone else for your advice!
  22. I thought I’d get a few decals, just to dress the scoot up a little. I discovered Pin Ups Plus and quickly found a few I wanted to play with. Since I couldn’t find any reference to applying waterslide decals when searching in the forum… I thought I’d write up a quick tutorial based on my recent experience. Note: Waterslides generally come with either clear backgrounds or white backgrounds. Both usually require you to trim around the decal (an X-acto knife comes in handy). Clear backgrounds are for surfaces that you want to have show through the back of the decal (or the decal is being placed on a light surface). White backgrounds are for placement on dark surfaces which would muddy/darken the decal appearance if allowed to show through. Be sure to order the right decal for your use. I hadn’t used waterslides since I was a kid assembling a P40 Warhawk. Back then, I remembered they could be a little fussy… so I turned to the Internet and this is the technique I used. Mark the location for the decal. I used masking tape to mark some reference points to align with the decal. Clean the surface… Line up your supplies… paper towels, cotton swabs, tooth picks, small med-soft brush, one shallow container with warm water and a drop or two of dish soap, one small jar with 2 parts white vinegar (5% acidity) / 1 part rubbing Alcohol (70% IPA) - this is used as a "setting solution" Dip the decal in the shallow bowl for 20/30 seconds… pull out and let sit on a paper towel for a minute or two. GENTLY try to slide the decal from its backing by rubbing it between your thumb and forefinger. If the decal doesn’t slide you can alternately try to… wait a little longer… dip it in the warm water again… brush with the vinegar/alcohol solution. Be patient… don’t force it… eventually the decal should slide off of its backing. Once the decal begins to slide… brush some of the vinegar/alcohol solution on the surface where you will be placing it. Align one edge in position and while holding the decal with your finger, gently slide the backing out. Use a brush, dipped in the vinegar/alcohol solution to gently shift the decal into its final position and smooth out any wrinkles or air bubbles. (Note: cotton swabs, tooth picks, etc. can also be used - I had the best luck, however, simply using a brush). Once in position and having no wrinkles or air bubbles, GENTLY blot with a paper towel and let dry completely. (if you accidentally shift the decal while blotting… just re-wet the brush and coax the decal back into position) Once completely dried, I apply a coat or two of polish (I use Zaino) on the panel/decal. This will help protect the decal from water damage.
  23. As I ride my scoot a little more... gaining confidence in it... tightening and adjusting bits & bobs; "dailing it in" so to speak, while the bike settles. I thought I'd share a couple dead-simple mods I made during the reconstruction. I'm sure I'm not the first to think of these, but as I hadn't read about them anywhere else... I figured I share. - It's probably a no-brainer but, like later versions, I added a rubber bumper to the S1 tool box door (so that it didn't fall open against the body). - I decided to try "well nuts" as simple/cheap way to attach the bridge piece to the frame. They are easy to attach... a blind fitting... reversible/non damaging... don't rattle... and (theoretically) handle temps +250F.
  24. Thanks Corey, Sheesh!... I'm not sure how I missed that. I guess I was really lucky; it doesn't look like any real damage was done. The thing is... when I installed everything, it looked/felt like the lock ring was doing its job. Everything seemed spot on. Oh well, I've already ordered a new MB hub nut domestically... I guess it looks like I'll have to order a (thicker) lock ring directly from MB. Is there anything else I can do to insure everything stays put in the future? Locktite on the main shaft threads??
  25. That's the thing... I did have a lock ring and it stayed on. The nut somehow slipped over the lock ring. It's not the original nut... It's a Scootopia nut. Here are a couple pictures of the threads. I'm not a fan of how the bottom of the nut bevels upwards. I'm thinking that this may have helped it get past the lock ring. Here's a picture showing the hub Part # 19.04.5070 To be honest, because I believe this to be an original s1 hub, I just assumed that it was a 20deg cone... but I don't know for sure. I do know that the cone and hub match.
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