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About corsachili

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  • Birthday 02/16/1966

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  • Location
    Cruz Mtns
  • Interests
    MotoGP, Pit Bull rescue, St. Bernards, Ducati, Alfa Romeo, Mod Life, surfing, snowboarding, restoring old things, watches.
  • Currently Owned Lambrettas
    63 Silver Special

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  1. Actually I found this video....couldn't find a photo to save my life. -tj in the Cruz Mtns
  2. I'm looking for a photo of the damper adaptor plates installed on an S3 non-disc fork link. Amazingly I have not been able to find any on the wonderful world of webs. Anyone holding? -tj in the Cruz Mtns.
  3. Nope, you found the right guy and the right scooter. I will say that it's worse than I expected. It's original and seems to have very few miles on the engine, but there's a massive amount of rust and corrosion, and the Holy Grail item (the Campy front hub and brake) may be completely useless. It's got a number of holes drilled in the body, headset and legshield. I found another one for only a bit more which is missing a few pieces but is only a little bit more than I paid for Tim's, so hopefully I can eventually make 2 good TVs. After all the hell I've been through with aftermarket parts I am aiming to leave both essentially factory stock. Happy Thanksgiving y'all! -tj in the Cruz Mtns
  4. Ming-thanks for taking the time to respond and for the good information. I haven't been paying much attention to the issue as of late for several reasons but I do feel like I've gone too rich. Mark Ito at Scooter Speed shares your opinion regarding looking deeper in to the porcelain insulator to get a truly accurate plug reading. Assuming the other variables (fuel/oil ratio, timing, potential vacuum leaks, etc.) are accounted for, I do think I've gone too rich again. I will start going leaner step by step but the engine does not run cleanly at WOT. Turning the choke on exacerbates the symptoms. I have not played with atomizers as they were not part of the carb kit and I've been told that for the vast majority of builds you can get very close to an ideal tune by only changing the main jet, pilot and needle/needle position. -tj
  5. Not as far as I'm aware....I am sure it's been repainted. The wheels showed signs of light metallic blue where they weren't rusted. Fender is fiberglass.....I'm not selling or binning it. -tj
  6. Believe me....I can't get them off quickly enough....I'm still dousing the fasteners in Gibbs oil. -tj
  7. This is my TV3 purchased from a friend of mine a few months ago. I just picked it up in San Diego last week. It had a black CA plate on it and looked like it had been packed in salt water for the past 30 years. Calling it patina is optimistic....corrosion city. Underneath all those corroded fasteners and rust there seems to be a fairly original TV 3 however, and after the debacle of my last build, I'll take untampered with and rusty over not rusty and royally rat effed any day. She's frame # 535507 and appears to have originally been metallic light blue, although it is painted a darker blue now which would not be original of course. The two curious things about it are the blue seat (I think I saw reference to some TV3s having blue upholstery) and the front fender, which is fiberglass, but which has a peculiar shape at the front. I'm wondering if it got damaged and someone sanded it down as I can't find a photos which show this shape on other TV3s. Ciao! -tj in the CruzMtns
  8. Yeah you're right I should try a richer needle. Just to confirm that I'm on the right path I went up to a 110 main and the same symptoms (past 3/4 it just dies and comes good when I close the throttle) occur. I went down to a 98 main and it runs pretty nicely at WOT although it's crisper with the 95. I'll look at the plug and try a richer needle setting, but I am obviously much richer than the 88 I had at the beginning of this journey. -tj in the CruzMtns
  9. UPDATE-I did the Smell Of Death procedure, and the needle seems right. I can't imagine it running any better with a richer needle. I removed the main completely in this scenario and past 3/4 throttle it immediately went fuel rich. I went up to a 98 main and determined that to be too rich (WOT throttle not crisp, closing it makes it come clean). I went down to a 95 main and that makes the engine run clean past 3/4 to WOT. I didn't mention that I have an SIP multi-function speedo with the cylinder head temp but the sensor doesn't fit where it should without grinding away some of the area around the spark plug on the head which I didn't realize until I'd already installed it. It's under the head shroud bolt but not giving a very accurate reading right now. I will have to see what it reads next time I ride. -tj in the CruzMtns
  10. Here's a photo of the plug after a few miles with a 98 main in it. I haven't monkeyed with the needle yet, but it does feel too rich at 3/4 to WOT. Up to 3/4 it pulls cleanly, but then past that it loses steam and flattens out. Closing the throttle brings it "back on the pipe" so to speak. I need to check and perhaps retard (or laten as they used to say) the spark a couple degrees. I set it at 19BTDC and upon reexamination of the MB instructions I find that 17 BTDC is what's called for. BTW-it's curious how the plug has that "windowing" effect on it, where the area from 9 to 12 o'clock has color, but the rest of the plug is clean. I've never seen that before...is that due to the way these modern, performance cylinders scavenge the charge? -tj in the CruzMtns
  11. Thanks Derek. Which exhaust? -tn in the CruzMtns
  12. Sorry, I didn't mention that I did set it with a timing light and it runs right up to 19 BTDC reliably and consistently. I'm fairly confident it's not too far advanced. TJ
  13. Let me just say that I'm not disagreeing that the plug is reading lean now, and the jetting may indeed be too lean. That said, if it was dangerously lean I'd have thought it would have seized by now. I rode it flat out in 4th gear up a steep highway for 10 minutes on a rather hot day and she never seized. Additionally, as mentioned, this plug had some closed throttle, even idle time on it, so it's not a reading from a "plug chop." I did initially try a 105 main and it ran very poorly, but I will certainly go higher until the plug is super sooty and then start going leaner. I degreed the flywheel (BGM 12v conversion) myself when I built the engine. If it's off it's only by a degree or two, which I understand could be dangerous if it's 21BTDC rather than 17. This is an LiS with a stock airbox, underseat scoop, and a "high flow" air filter. -tj in the CruzMtns
  14. http://www.mbscooters.co.uk/info/setting-up-*-packers__gaskets/setting-up-*-cylinders-mbgm-rt+255.html -tj in the CruzMtns
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