Aaron Hecker

Is there anyone in Seattle who has room to store two Lammys prior to and after the Jammy? Delivery and pick up dates have yet to be determined but it might be up to several months on either end. Please PM me to discuss. Thanks

Ameribodge.....

BGM rep replied...."No, you cannot use needle bearings, surfaces are not hardened"....

I've asked my BGM rep if standard needle bearings are ok to use in their clutches. Will let you know if I get a response. Stu...I've wondered that same thing....dealt with too much crap recently to just be coincidence.....

Stu, If you are still having issues, set up the sprocket/clutch spider/bush with a metal ruler as shown in the pic above and see which surface is highest. If the clutch basket is highest then you should be good. Assemble as normal with the correct shim but without the chain on the rear sprocket. Torque the nut to spec. Does the rear sprocket spin freely relative to the clutch spider? Does the clutch spider spin easily separate from the rear sprocket? If yes to both, you should be good and you need to look at some of the other possible sources of clutch drag. If no, I would proceed as Mike and the Stickys manual suggests and remove a small amount of material from the rear sprocket. If the clutch spider is binding up I would look at the shim under the gear tree. I do not believe the thickness of that shim under the assembly affects the movement of the rear sprocket relative to the clutch bell. It should only change the height of the whole assembly relative to the gear tree bearing. Feel free to call me if you want to discuss....508 265-3197.

Stu, How much cork movement do you have when the clutch is fully compressed? Sticky says you must have at least 1mm of free up and down movement on the ears of the cork clutch plates to avoid clutch drag. Check to see if one of the metal plates got bent during installation. If it's tweaked a little it will cause clutch drag. Definitely something I've had happen. Then I'd also check the metal clutch plate thicknesses. Maybe they slipped in a thicker plate by accident...

Entry from Stickys (1 ed). I'm also not sure if this measurement (if we are talking the same thing) was too small how it would create clutch drag. It would lock up the rear sprocket. Maybe we are talking two different measurements....

Mike, I thought the measurement should be "no larger" than 0.1mm which equals 0.004"....

10 spring version? Make sure the springs are all seated correctly.

Here's the link to the latest info https://www.riminilambrettacentre.com/en/products-casaperformance/kit-mozzo-posteriore-octopus-8-prigionieri-asse-ruota-mille-righe-cuscinetto-viteria.html

http://vintageconnections.com/ buy one of the kits with the correct tool, you won't regret it.

Upjettr, I've emailed Dean about the availability of the newly designed "Octopus" layshaft/hub/rim combo. He has responded but only to say "I'll get you more info soon". Will let you know as soon as I know.

Darren, I believe the redesign of the layshaft/hub/rim assembly by the Casa Performance group is in response to concerns of standard component failure in engines making 40hp or greater. It also eliminates what they feel as the weak link in the design, cone style mounting of the hub. Upjettr, The part number of the layshaft you referenced from Jet200 is M286, the part number for the 5-speed specific layshaft is M286a. The parts are not the same. The Rimini website describes the differences. Does this answer your question? We may have one M286a layshaft in stock....checking now. Please email us at trinitylambretta@yahoo.com and I can confirm availability and price. https://www.riminilambrettacentre.com/en/albero-ruota-posteriore-li.html https://www.riminilambrettacentre.com/en/novita-albero-asse-ruota-posteriore-per-5-marce-lambretta-s1-s2-s3-gp-dl-serveta.html

What pipe do you have? I have an NK road/race. I had a BGM PWK 30mm carb (stepped rubber) it caused me nothing but problems. I threw on a 35mm Mikuni and it was an amazing transformation.

Damn the MON crew needs to be on their guard for the next few months until this run of bad luck passes. Really glad you are ok... We've talked about your forks or frame being bent on the S1, do you think that the load vector applied to the backing plate during braking has changed and therefore loaded a weaker section of the backing plate, causing failure?