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Solerunner1

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Posts posted by Solerunner1


  1. Sorry I'm late! I didn't know we were talking about piston conversions!! Ha. I still do a bunch of iron barrel 186cc tunes. I prefer not to shorten the cylinders these days, but its still a good option if you want to avoid the cost of a crank rebuild. That's definitely a 107 mazzuchelli rod rebuild, Wiseco Ts185 piston (they don't differentiate an ER type), and shortened barrel. Wiseco rings tend to be a larger gap than one might expect, so anything less than 0.020" out of the box is ok, although 0.010" is optimal. 

    The only way to measure bore clearance is with a proper bore gauge. I measure barrels for free (plus shipping of course) and check con rod/big end wear for free as well,  but regardless, if you need a new piston, that's an older wiseco number. The new number is 176M06400. If you suspect you need a rebore, you could use a local bore/machine shop...then buy a 176M06450 and have them bore it to 0.0035", no less! Although for this one you also need to shorten the piston skirt. The generally accepted amount is to take 8mm from the skirt, although I think I've gone as little as 6.5mm to keep intake timing more reasonable (If I'm not doing it, tell them 7mm). I sell them for $110 standard, shortened I could do $125. 

    Also, that barrel isn't ported much, if at all. These can be great kits for short money if set up well. The head/combustion chamber should be checked too, to make sure it's not too high of a compression ratio...I've made that mistake myself in the past! It comes from recutting at too shallow of an angle and not opening up the chamber to compensate. 

     

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  2. On ‎9‎/‎5‎/‎2018 at 7:08 PM, Mike Anhalt said:

    Any time I've had clutch drag problems like that I found about .007" cured it nicely. I think it's a little larger than MBD suggests but I haven't had any issues.

    I thought about going further myself. 0.002" can turn into 0.001" under heat. Too much heat can turn it into 0 pretty quick! When you think of it that way, 0.004" isn't really much clearance. Personally, if I didn't have a book to consult I would probably set it around 0.010", which still really isn't that much! I decided to follow sticky's book spec. 

     

    On ‎9‎/‎5‎/‎2018 at 6:39 PM, Stu aka S.Hanson #17 said:

    I HATE a lot of BGM junk. Really glad you found the answer and posted the solution. It's bs the shop that sold it to me wanted me to send it to them on my dime so they could "check it out". Loop hole jumping. Shops, just back up brand new $400 items...

    I totally understand your frustration! You have every right to have a problem with this situation. That said, having sort of been on the "production" end of things (and getting more and more into it!), this sort of thing is a very easy pitfall for a company, especially one that doesn't actually have a factory to make things. They design on a computer, get quotes, and go with their best judgement. Things like hardness (an issue they've had) is almost impossible to measure after the fact, unless they checked every individual part, which they don't. The important thing to me is how they handle a mistake when it happens. 

    It's also a simple error that cost you a lot of money and that sucks!


  3. So, this clutch assembly ended up at my place. We finally got around to installing it today. I totally forgot that it was the "problem" clutch from this thread. Of course, I torqued the clutch nut down...and it locked solid. A quick search brought me back here, so I figured I would follow up. 

    The ruler clearance showed about 0.002", which should be ok. After playing around quite a bit I found that the assembly didn't lock up until after 40ft/lbs, so it wasn't much that needed to come off! Fortunately, I have a surface grinder about 10 ft from the engine. It took about 10 mins to grind 0.0015" off the back. It took longer to zero the wheel than to cut it. Re-assembly went fine. I tried the original crown wheel and the clearance was the same. It appears to be an issue with the center spider. When I was reading 0.002" on the original set up, I substituted for another BGM spider and it showed 0.004". 

    For this small of an amount I chose to take it off of the back of the sprocket, without checking chain alignment. Taking off where I did, the sprocket will be dropped back an equal amount. If this issue was larger, the correct way would be to check chain alignment first, then find out which side of the sprocket needed machining. It's nice to have a full machine shop in the same place you build engines ?
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  4. 17 hours ago, Lloyd Hammond said:

    Red to white: 92ohm

    Green to white: 497ohm

    which both appear within spec.  I haven't wired up anything other than the stator wires to the CDI unit (no kill switch, etc.).  That should be enough to generate a spark at the HT lead.


    Cheers,

    Lloyd

     

     

    Yeah, certainly seems good. You can also check green wire voltage when kicking the bike over, although note- the voltage is high enough to shock you if you're hands are touching the wire. Depending on kicking speed (start slow and work your way up) it could be as high as 40 volts if I remember correctly. If you've got voltage, then I'd definitely suspect a bad CDI. 


  5. On an electronic, the easiest way I find is to check the stator first. Checking Ohms with a mulit-meter, Red to white should be around 90-95 ohms. Green to white should be between 400-650. Those numbers are approximate/off the top of my head. Pretty sure they're right on though. If the stator is good, and the green wire to frame check comes out good, then I'd go with a cdi change. Also, try removing the green wire coming from the loom, which is the kill switch. A faulty kill switch will do it too. 

    I've had good results with the cheap indian ones considering the cost. I've had a few bad solder joints on the stator (easy fix), 2 bad cdi's, and one bad regulator. To replace any of those parts was still way below cost of other higher end kits....which we've also had bad cdi's and solder joints on. If it's indian, I would definitely start with a stator check. 

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  6. 2 hours ago, ThomasK said:

    Does anybody know how the barrel is properly located on the case? I mean the barrel studs can't be considered reliable - can they? 

    https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/racing+cylinder+quattrini+_15059000

     That's pictures of the P200 version, which uses the same system. My guess is that it only uses the studs. My other guess is that there's ample side play in the little end to account for rod clearance. While we obviously want the barrel and piston to run dead center of the crank center line, it's not actually as critical as you might think. Side to side, the rod could be thrust into a crank web or the piston, that's why I say there'll be plenty of clearance. Up and down- The Gordon Blair book talks about offsetting the barrel to achieve asymmetrical port timings....which is quite a head scratcher if you think about it for while! haha. 

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  7. 9 hours ago, theageofindustry said:

    I think any rod might work but I have a strong feeling that the 58/116 combo is there to keep the piston as far in the cylinder as possible at bdc since the skirt isn't there to guide it. I imagine the piston chosen to do the deed also plays a roll in this but that's all speculation.

     

    I read in one of the earlier writings about it that that's exactly why they use the long rod. I just don't think 1mm difference would be too much trouble. 


  8. I question reliability in the long run (perhaps even the short run!), but it's definitely a unique design! If a 115 rod will work (it should), send me an old worn out GP crank and the kit. I'll send back a 115 Yamaha rod, welded crank for $200 that will handle it, and build a pipe for it for half the chiselspeed cost (minus silencer). Send me the casings and I'll port them for cheap, match it all, and set the squish. The only catch is- I move slow in the winter, so turn around takes a while. I might be able to shave some more money off,  just for the fun of building a killer engine like this! 

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  9. I have several headsets around I can take pictures of. I kinda forget too, but the headset must have the outer cable housings, because the clamp is just a small piece. Is it a proper J range cable outer? Or specific lambretta for that matter? I've never had trouble with the outer gear cables coming out. Perhaps routed wrong? I seem to remember questioning the cable routing on our starstream. Fortunately, I had a complete cento handy to look at. 

    I sort of remember them going on the opposite "cable/wire slot" than what you would think. I wanna say all cables went in the back, and just speedo and wiring went in the front slot? I can check more in depth tomorrow though.

     


  10. The trouble with any carb or exhaust change is that most likely you'll need to grind the barrel out to match things. Not sure I would do that to a tv200 barrel. 

    If you ever did decide you wanted to play around with the top end, I might shelf the tv barrel and start with a GP200 set up. You can get them pretty cheap. Then you can grind away guilt free! 

    • Like 1

  11. 1 hour ago, dirtyhandslopez said:

    Think we are explaining deck height differently Adam.

    Deck height to me means the measurement from center of wrist pin to the top edge of the piston. Perhaps compression height would be a better definition.. A 1.8mm deck height would be a tiny piston.

    Nice job on the profile tool,  they work perfectly for that job.

    You're right, we mean different things. Wiseco, wossner, and af use the term compression height when talking about wrist pin to piston crown. I've always read the term deck height when referring to the lip between piston crown and top of barrel. 

    Either way is fine with me. If you say a 32mm deck height or 0.5mm  deck height, I'd know what you meant either way. :)


  12. With a deck of 0.8, then with a 0.5 head gasket, you can get within range of 1.3mm squish. Do you have another 200 head you could check the profile on?

    Alternatively, you could run no head gasket, have the head cut with a recess to get 1.1/1.2mm squish. Although in this case, I wouldn't recommend going through that trouble for such little gain.


  13. If you're reading squish clearances like that, you could be losing 15-20% of your power right there. One thing you could try first, although difficult with the engine in the scoot, is to measure the deck height. That will give you a base to work with. If the deck height is, say 1.8mm, then it won't matter much what you do with the head. Bare minimum will always be 1.8mm. That gap would have to be closed up one way or another. Deck height + gasket thickness + head recess - torque compression = squish clearance. None of that is very easy to measure accurately, but it will give you a ball park of what you'll get when you bolt it together, rather than just assemble and hope it's right.

    It's common to find the head contour not match the piston dome on stock heads. If the deck height is within range, then I'd get a new head cut, or use a newer type 200 head. The trouble with that is that a new 200cc head may still be wrong on the contour. Every head I do gets matched to the piston being used. I would definitely start there before I went altering a rare barrel. 

     


  14. As of now, nothing. Bummer. The moped race in August is the same weekend as Northern Aggression, which our group is going to. I think AD is planning on moving to Nicaragua, so he's probably out. It is a closed Facebook group, but if someone asks to be invited, they'll be accepted. "Scooter Racing Community Council"

    That said, I'm still game. I was thinking maybe line up a weekend at either Beaver Valley (that's the spot you know?) or Oakland Valley in NY. Even if we can get a fun time for a few of us, I'd be willing do that! I'll message AD right now and see what he says.

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  15. Thanks for the input everybody!

     

    7 hours ago, theageofindustry said:

    You could maybe drill out your bushings to the larger size? I am one of those people that refuses to alter original parts to fit aftermarket parts so I would always alter the new part to fit the original machine.

    I'm the same way! No existing parts would be harmed! My other option was going to be to machine bronze bushings that would fit standard dampers to the existing posts. Thankfully it looks like I won't have to do that! It would go something like- Find a generic thinner rubber insert, or perhaps machine nylon ones, to fit the main eye of standard dampers (with all existing rubber removed). Then machine bronze sleeves, OD to fit inside the rubber/nylon and ID to fit nicely on the posts. Fairly simple set of operations, but a considerable amount of work compared to just buying a set that fits.

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  16. I'm sure many of you already know, but I just found out....Jet200 front damper bolts are a different size than standard dampers. The nuts appear to be one size above 8mm thread size (13/14mm socket size). Of course, standard dampers won't fit. I figure I could machine bushings to make standard dampers fit, but I'd rather not. Anyone have an easier way out of this issue? Are there new Serveta dampers made? Any tips/advice/ideas would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!


  17. If the nuts run into the flat of the stud without sufficiently tightening the gasket to the flange, I'd stack washers or oversized nuts, as spacers, onto each stud before I doubled up gaskets. I've done this in various places more than I'd like to admit.

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  18. I have a Series 3 engine casing that I'm looking into having vapor blasted. I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with this? I don't have a place yet, so I'd be happy with any recommendations. I see there's a guy on Facebook that always mentions it. I'd prefer to use a trusted place. Any tips, advice, or approximate prices would be appreciated as well. Thanks!

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  19. 1 hour ago, Mike Anhalt said:

    I have all my exhausts ceramic coated locally. Typically they run about $75 per pipe. That price can go down with a multi pipe job though.

     

    Black, silver, white, red, orange and cad/gold (I haven't seen it yet but I'm told is very unique looking).

    We have a place near us that does our powder coating and blasting cheap. It's probably wise to check with them for a price. I assume that stuff holds up quite well? And doesn't change color with the heat of running over long periods? 


  20. 7 hours ago, TRs said:

    I have always really liked the Toomey tips, looks like the one you are making is also going to be nice and being easily serviceable - awesome! 

    If there isn't a cheap rd available in your area, maybe we could work something out where I can tack a pair together and you could make 5 copies? 

    Yeah, we can definitely work something out like that!. I have the knowledge and formulas for design. We can chat about it privately, so we don't bother everyone else with the details. ha. 


  21. Here's a few pics. The silencers are all machined, 5 pipes welded out of 8. Gotta do spring clips, mounting bracket bushings, pipe mounting, pack silencers, order boxes, coating/painting of some kind, then ship out. I have to take a bit of a break though, because I'm backed up on kits currently. When I'm done with these, I wanna try to get a few ser 3 pipes out the door, then maybe another batch of these.

    I also plan on being able to make custom silencers to any ID, OD, length, aluminum or carbon fiber outer tubing, for any pipe. These first ones have "reversed end caps" so they bolt together, making re-packing (or re-painting) easier. 

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  22. 49 minutes ago, dirtyhandslopez said:

    The satin black ceramic works well if you heat cure it and the steel it is going on is clean, that includes fingerprints, 'cause fingerprints are nice little dollops of oil which don't hold paint well.

    Sanding it all down and cleaning isn't a problem. You mean a "ceramic spray can" type of system? 

    59 minutes ago, TRs said:

    I would love to see some pictures....! Any interest in making some for yamaha rd125 & rd200 's? I would buy a few sets if the price was right! 

    When I get the system down, I'd get into anything 2 stroke, but I would also need one in order to design a set to fit the bike correctly. I've still got a ways to go, but coming along nicely!

    1 hour ago, MarkH said:

    Personally I would go unfinished or the BBQ paint route.

    Your entire comment was very helpful (thanks!), but the "BBQ paint" is my favorite part! Makes my job easier! haha. Then I guess it's easy to strip off if you did want to do some other kind of coating. That's a good point. If they come ceramic coated out of the box, you're kind of forcing them into the color/type you give them.


  23. Hey everybody! Some of you may know that I'm getting into the expansion chamber manufacturing game...on a very small scale. Small batches of a few lambretta pipes of my own design. I've been trying to decide on what finish to go with when selling. I had originally wanted to do a straight bare/oiled version, like the BGM big box, but the coloring/bluing isn't to my standard yet. I've decided to do some form of coating. Getting a simple satin black high temp (ceramic?) paint and doing it myself is top choice currently. Personally I always thought chrome was a bit too much. Some of the english guys seem to like BBQ paint for easy maintenance. That's real simple! 

    But what have you guys done, bought, liked, disliked? Opinions and thoughts are welcome! Thanks!


  24. On 1/27/2017 at 11:12 PM, Rob_H said:

     

    I can almost guarantee you don't need to safety wire. Be careful about throwing things like that out, removing lights, etc. It makes it intimidating for people who have no experience w it and are only interested in trying it. 

    Track time is easy. You can ride to the track, run what you brung, and ride home. We dont even have coolant to worry about. RTV goop on an oil plug is usually fine, if that (doubtful anything is required) and painters tape over glass is plenty. Don't even need to turn the lights off.

    I always thought those were safety measures laid out by the track. If the track doesn't require them, then I don't think we would enforce any rules above and beyond. I don't yet own a set of leathers, but I do feel pretty strongly on decent "sliding" gear....especially after experiencing last summer how painful sliding on pavement can be. That sucked. I wouldn't want to see that happen to anyone.  

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