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Solerunner1

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Everything posted by Solerunner1

  1. What everyone else said is great and definitely check all that. But if it's been running fine for 2 years at all the same settings and now causes problems, only at high temps/higher 4th gear runs I would check the carb first or perhaps fuel flow. Air leaks generally cause racing all the time. High load racing indicates lean running. Another easy check is to run it normal in 4th gear where it's started to race. Close the throttle and pull the clutch in while riding and coast. See if it races. Probably will. If so, perform the same test but turn the choke on and ride a while before pulling the clutch. If it settles down with the choke on, but races with the choke off there's more than likely a carb issue.
  2. This seems to be a good database for pwk, but as you can see, the numbers are kind of all over the place. The one thing you do see is that most of the needles are JJH. That's not to say other needles won't give better mid-throttle performance, it just seems to be at least a reasonable taper needle. http://scootrs.com/tech.cfm?tip=jetpwk Scoot RS also gives you the float height measurement....although I'm not entirely sure it's accurate. It seems to be too high in my experience. That also depends on how the carb is mounted and how much tilt it has. http://scootrs.com/tech.cfm?tip=float
  3. Definitely make sure your float height isn't too high, but if it's loading up with fuel at idle, then the idle jet is probably too big. Also, judging by some jetting database, most people seem to have best results with the JJH needle. Any reason why you're not running that one?
  4. That is a good one!....they did do it in english too. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ezjo8aDYeSk . Check out GP225Wildcat's video feed. Tons of stuff on there.
  5. She did!! Haha! I have no idea how! She's got skill!!
  6. Sorry Harley! I'm not sure if I met you or not!? The problem with the screen names is that I never knew if I was or was not talking to an active member at the rally. I don't know many of your real names!
  7. To answer the original question directly...I didn't show up to the meeting because I'm an ass. I chose not to go on the ride saturday, but intended to go up with my small group separately. Upon leaving we decided to use our hand drawn maps from the rally bag to race each other up to the meeting corsa style. During this I took a wrong turn and ended up very lost, on a highway, and apparently right back to downtown Boston. If it were at the hotel, my foolishness would not have been able to get in the way of me attending the meeting (although admittedly, it was a fun race ). I personally apologized to Corey and Keiran, but didn't have the chance to speak privately to Aaron. I'll apologize to all members that attended here publicly. Sorry. I actually do take the national Lambretta Club seriously and this was an important part that shouldn't have been missed. It was an absolutely great rally and was well put together in my opinion. Great Job! I had a blast!!
  8. The good thing with using a ser 1 barrel is that it's been designed to run a shortened piston, like this one or say a tv 175 piston. This set up gives you the ability to the high quality wiseco piston with more conservative port timings. When you shorten a ser 3 barrel to fit the wiseco piston, the tune ends up a bit on the higher end. It looks like someone has ported it already, but judging by the intake lump still in there it probably isn't very highly tuned. Personally I would probably re-work the intake, but it'll work the way it is. I like this version, so I would use it. I would also put the wiseco piston above the deanspeed, but others may disagree. I say use this one.
  9. That number is discontinued and replaced with 176M06400 (for 64mm bore. Ends in 6450 for 64.5, 6500 for 65 etc). It's the same piston, but without the cutouts above the wrist pin. It's the suzuki ts185 piston, wiseco brand. And it appears it's a series 1 barrel, so you should need a thicker base gasket to make it work, and shorten the piston skirt. You can get them from wiseco dealers, or on ebay. I retail them for $110, the wiseco list price is $128. You can get cheaper made ones, and oem ones sometimes for much cheaper. Wiseco ones are good because you can get replacement rings more easily.
  10. I haven't met you once in 17 years of scootering...and now this is the third time hanging out in like 2 months! Gonna be fun! See ya in a while!
  11. It can be done reliably, but I would only trust that job to someone who knows how to do it properly. As was said, using a cut off wheel to grind the old pegs flush isn't too hard, but you'd definitely want a good press fit on the new pins, or they can come loose over time. There's a motorcross place by me that does this regularly for micro sprints. To prevent ring pegs loosening up, we've also discussed heavy press fit and loc tited pins pressed in from the piston crown. That way the side to side motion of the rings easing back into the grooves wouldn't be able to loosen up the pins. They would have to actually shear the pins off, which is far less likely.
  12. I've been porting and studying two stroke theory for a number of years. Here's some basics that I've learned.... Port maps- Learning to do port rubbings by putting a tube of paper in the barrel Isn't too hard, just takes a few tries to get the hang of it. A few tips- make the paper long enough to just over lap itself. 1/4" -1/2" is best. Too much overlap and the seam will run into a port rubbing. Then when you undo the paper, the port will be split in half. Also, make your tube longer than the barrel by at least an inch. Leave the extra stick out of the top of the barrel, and cut two tabs in it. Then you can fold the tabs down tight against the head gasket face and tape them down to keep the sleeve in place. This extra also allows you to get a rubbing of the line at the top of the barrel. If you plan on measuring port heights with the map, it's essential that you have this frame of reference. I made a light box so I could easily trace the rubbings into a notebook for future reference. I use this to convert my measurements into degrees- http://www.lambretta-images.com/archive/porttiming.php#.U7U87_ldXT9 Not sure exactly what the top tool is officially called (besides just a caliper), but I use these to measure port widths. Line it up with the port, then measure with a micrometer. Reversible too...I use the 65% rule for port width. Take the bore diameter x 0.65 and that's the max width, provided that the ports are shaped correctly. Adjust the caliper to that measurement and you can use it to mark out the new port. For measuring heights, I use the depth bar of a venier micrometer. Using the piston inside the bore helps you get an accurate stop. The piston also helps to scribe a straight line around the bore, as needed. A square is helpful for lines parallel to the stroke. I use carbide bits for hogging out larger amounts of material from ports, the hard stones for smoothing everything out, then the sanding drums for polishing. With aluminum barrels, low speeds on all three types of bits is important. The CC tool is great for that because it has good torque at low speeds. The sanding drums seem to give a better finish at low speeds than at high speeds. This is ideal, but whether porting or honing (which gives a sharp edge in the opposite direction), a good chamfer on all ports will clean up the sharp edges. Never touch the transfer windows, its too easy to ruin them completely. Making the exhaust port shape symmetrical is important. If it's not, it can ease the rings back into their grooves more on one side, leading to ring peg failure. I love discussing two stroke tuning theory, so if you decide to go further down the rabbit hole, feel free to bombard me with questions.
  13. Yeah, most people agree with the 19 deg btdc these days, even though the old setting was 21. If you're too far advanced (higher deg btdc) you can more easily damage your engine, so the 19 deg is safer. That depends mostly on how the intake is opened up. The last 175 I had, which was quite impressive, ran a 30mm carb. Carb size should be carb size, no matter what brand. Although, some brands will flow better or jet easier than others. The rule I follow is that the intake window area should ideally be 10-15% bigger than the carb. They could also both be the same area, but if the carb is bigger than the window, the extra carb size does no good (or, very little good). It will then be the window throttling things back at full throttle and not the carb body itself.
  14. They call it a 64mm piston. That's the one you want. It's for a 64mm bore, but the actual piston measurement is less.
  15. We've touched on it a bit before, but using that kit with the stock ser 1 crank and mag bearing is asking for trouble. I'm normally quite easy going on using older parts, but that ser 1 setup is rough. That being said, a 175 or 186 conversion set up like yours will all bolt up. The studs will probably be too short though. Like skippy said too, check the head. a 175 head can be opened up to 186, but a 186 can't be closed up to make a 175 (technically, it can, but wouldn't be worth it).
  16. The customers budget is definitely an issue with that frame. One possibility is to try a frame swap with somebody....preferably one of those types of guys who would pay 2k for an sx stamped frame. Or for the cut down guys. Worst case, maybe a couple hundred bucks? Or maybe a usable frame for a decent price. Everyone has an opinion, but for me, to take an li frame and weld an sx frame number in it is bad news, no matter how well done. I like the idea of the machined sleeves to piece it together! Maybe that's standard procedure, but it hadn't crossed my mind. Build a simple jig from a known good frame, cut out the bad parts, have the proper tubes/sleeves made, re-assemble correctly, then have a professional welder weld it all back together. How hard could it be!? ha!
  17. What happened is that they sent you a 186 barrel and a 175 piston. You choice then is to swap one or the other out. I had/have a 186 piston kit here to fit it, but the piston itself is currently in the engineering dept at wiseco (oops, did I say that out loud? ). When it comes back I'll sell you that one if you don't already have a plan by then. I just checked a wiseco 64mm piston and it shows an accurate reading of 63.9mm, so if you do choose to keep the barrel and change the piston definitely have the piston clearance checked by someone who does that kind of work (I do that, but there are many other places that do as well). The bores from india can vary greatly from way too tight to near wear limit. Let me know if you need any help!
  18. 17 years as a boiler technician and I've seen brass nuts on every "high temp" surface on them. As far as I know/have heard it's for less chance of seizing onto the studs, making removal easier. Brass is also one of the softest metals (gold and mercury nuts never quite caught on for some reason ). I ditched the brass nuts for regular old zinc plated hardware store variety about 12 years ago. Never had a loose or seized nut since. You can also really crank down on them without fear of stripping them.
  19. I'll definitely do a port map when I tear it apart. Motor is seized, just about everything else as well. The frame is slightly tweaked at the back. That's about the only part I'm concerned about. The rest doesn't look so bad. I'm in no hurry to start a restoration, but in a few weeks we'll tear it down, shelve all of the "sensitive" parts, reassemble with other bits, clean it up, and ride it for a season or two as is. I learned a long time ago that tearing a bike down and doing a crap paint job/"restoration" on it is worse than doing nothing to it. She'll see a few thousand miles on the road before a full cosmetic face lift.
  20. So, my friend goes up to a scrap yard this morning because we hear they may have some old scooters. Normally just mopeds and hondas in my experience. He sends me a picture this morning of this! A TV200! In rough shape, but mostly complete! I only ever find li150's. He asks what the guy wants for it....100 bucks. That's right, just 100 bucks. I would have just taken it at that, but my friend (if you ever meet him, you'll understand. Ha. He'll be at LJ) has to haggle. He gets it for $80, plus tax. Yup, $84.75 total. I hate him....BUT, he comes to my house a little while ago, and seeing that it's my birthday tomorrow.....gives it to me for 85 bucks. I tried to talk him out of it, I really did. This bike was in line to be scrapped, and in a few days would have been gone. Got there in the nick of time! Absolutely fantastic!! IMG_0595 by MrLloyd007, on Flickr IMG_0594 by MrLloyd007, on Flickr IMG_0593 by MrLloyd007, on Flickr IMG_0598 by MrLloyd007, on Flickr IMG_0597 by MrLloyd007, on Flickr
  21. I do agree, and for the long term I would get some made or make them myself, but due to the large number of things that could go wrong during the experimental process I'd like to get the thing running and see how she goes before investing more time than necessary. They are 7x1.00? You would know I'm sure. I could, but that would further complicate an already too complicated stud re-drilling process. ha. That may be my plan B! There should be enough metal on the flats of a standard stud to cut 7mm threads...I hope! This may be the winner for now, if I can make spacers to fit. I have a pile V3$p@ casings here that I melt down to cast lambretta parts with and some of them have studs. They're too long of studs, but long is better than short for this. Thanks for the comments! Fingers crossed that this experiment works. Our new J50 has a Corsette to win!
  22. I thought it was 7 x 1.00, but wasn't sure myself. Found a 1 meter length of it on ebay too. The J crankcase doesn't have a whole lot of meat on it for over tapping, and considering it's in great shape I figure no need to press my luck with it.
  23. Hey, anyone know the pitch of ser 3 intake and exhaust studs/nuts? 7mm x ? Also, does anyone know where to get this 7mm size in threaded rod (all thread)? What I'm actually looking for, in case this would help, is custom cylinder studs for a J range. They need to be longer than stock cento. AND, if this particular cylinder conversion works, I'll be sharing it with you guys!
  24. I wonder if it's not a tire mounting issue. Same here, see it often. One could try a dial gauge against the rim to get a rough idea how the rim is running. Propping the bike up off of the tire and turning it slowly of course. There is a paint thickness issue and all that, but it could give you a rough idea. As for the tire, the dial gauge doesn't like rubber. Maybe mount the gauge as close as possible to the "highest" spot, then feeler gauge the lowest spot. Then check that flat spot on the hub, near the nut. Remember that any difference there will get worse the further you get away from it, it is calculable though. Average the 3? See how they correspond? Normally on badly wobbling tires I don't notice any handling issues (says the guy who is running all original 1959 rotten rubber mounting), so that also makes me think its just tires. If a hub was wobbling, I'd think that vibration would be transferred more the engine. You'd notice it.
  25. All of the spark advice above, but have you tried the manual choke method (remove air hose, put hand over carb, and kick over several times)...and come away with a wet hand? Also, is the plug wet when you pull it after several kicks? Tried a good old fashioned bump start?
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