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Everything posted by Solerunner1

  1. A quick google search with the base number Corey said (I never knew what that number was) has several labeled as "80W LED headlight". Are those the ones you tried Corey? Or equivalent? I would think by now there should be some 12v options that are plenty bright enough.
  2. Yeah, I would make it a total of 0.010". You're at 0.006" now, so only 0.004" to go. A piece of paper is approx 0.001" thick, so it's really not much to take off. Spiderwebb- that is all correct. I prefer mm spec divided by 25.4, and inch spec times 25.4, seems less confusing to me than 0.03937. 35 thou= 0.035". 3.5 thou= 0.0035" or 35 TEN thousandths. BIG difference! As I'm sure you found out. haha. It happens. TRs- I'm not concerned about it seizing, as you are correct about the expansion. I'm more concerned about enough clearance to allow oil into the bearing for lubrication. Same reason innocenti increased the big end clearance on later cranks.
  3. With the 20mm wide bearing, it will float back and forth, and that's not particularly good. But there's still plenty of support for the rollers. I'd stay away from piston shims myself. They never really were a good idea due to the intense g-forces attached to the motion and speed of the little end at high rpm. I couldn't find a 21mm wide bearing (that's not to say one isn't available, just that I couldn't find one easily online). Since we're really only talking about 4 thou total, if it were me I'd lap all 4 surfaces by 1 thou. 400 grit sandpaper should do it. I'd get a bit of metal plate at the hardware store (some cheap generic bracket type thing about 1" wide) and cover it in the sandpaper to lap it on the inside of the piston. Kerosene/diesel/heating oil is a good lubricant. Then the old glass plate trick for the bearing for like 3 seconds a side, cleaning the burr edge after. 4 thou is such a small amount that I feel like that's probably the best and most reliable way to go. Or just do 2 thou on either side of the piston. but I'd love to hear other opinions if anyone has any. This is just what I would do to ensure reliability.
  4. 0.152mm is 0.0059". 6 thousandths seems awful tight to me. Bell's book says that WITH thrust washers on the little end, the minimum is 0.010". Personally, I would stick with 10 thou as a minimum. Unless someone else has better info, I would either take a bit off the sides of the piston (2 thou per side isn't a whole lot), or run the smaller bearing. It may not be ideal but it's better than the little end overheating. And you've got the rod centering taken care of in the big end.
  5. I got nothing at all. I tried a torque wrench (long arm so more torque) and nothing moved at all. If I had any movement at all (which normally happens) I'd be content to slowly work it back and forth to get it out. The no movement at all part is what worries me, because I don't wanna get to heavy handed with something and break valuable pieces! I need to buy an adapter to get my socket to fit on the air gun, which I will be doing next. Fingers crossed that works! I may have to borrow a few, or 40, washers from ya Gene!
  6. I like the impact wrench idea! I had actually briefly visited that, but my socket drive sizes didn't match. Totally worth buying the right socket or 3/8"- 1/2" converter to try. I'm gonna couple that with some heat and more liquid wrench. That is my backup plan. It must also be locked on the engine cones as well, so I'm concerned that doing this will only get me so far. I'd like to see that puller in action! I am quite handy (if that's how you wanna put it) with a sawzall, so that is an option should all else fail. I'm gonna be patient and hope i can shock it free.
  7. So, we finally got around to the $85 TV200 tear down this last saturday. Surprisingly, even with the crankcase still filled with water, everything came apart well. Gears, crank, mag flange, top end all apart. Since we don't plan on restoring it right away I was gonna do the whole rebuild in the bike, but noticed when I pivot the engine the case and outer part of the silent block move, while the bolt and inner part of the silent block don't move at all. All pivot action is taking place in the rubber itself. The bolt must be seized in the cones and the silent blocks. I've tried a lot of liquid wrench, light beating, double nut method and torque to get the bolt to at least spin, tightening the one side down to pull the bolt out a bit, etc. Haven't tried any heat yet and will be, but so far no movement at all. I have dealt with this problem many times before, but this one is really in there! I was thinking flip the frame over and cut the bolt between the engine lugs and frame pivot bolt tube, IF there's room. If not, cut the silent blocks off right at the lug mounting? I'll destroy anything that's easily replaceable, but that frame and engine casing has to stay perfect!! Anybody have any useful tips, tricks, or advice??
  8. They missed that "Lifetime" made for TV movie that had an ochre Jet200 playing the supporting role. I swear I wasn't just drunk and made that up. The opening seen is her riding around, then there's a whole mid movie "her and her new boyfriend having the best first date ever/slow motion/riding two up on the Jet" part. That being said, going through this list is top priority for the holidays! Thanks for sharing!
  9. That's fantastic! Looks like I just found a cover for whatever band I end up in next! Or, as the B side comes on, 2 covers!
  10. Just to add because I didn't see it mentioned yet- Throttle slide cutaway also influences low throttle openings, so if the needle can't get you sorted, that's another possibility to richen up a lean spot around 1/8-1/4. Was the head tight when you took it apart. I remember reading about a few holed mugellos over the years and a loose head had been mentioned. Not sure if that was the actual cause (I don't actually remember what the causes were), just saying that it was mentioned by other people. Also, you could check compression ratio to see if there's any problem with, or increased margin of error available from that area.
  11. The rich-lean-rich scenario can be common with expansion chambers. Never messed too much with the new Dell Ortos (ran 1 30mm, and needed almost no adjustment to work perfectly. Luck!), but they seem quite good. a 24-28 carb should be good for that setup. Not sure on needles, but I would do some plug chops. I would lower the pilot by one step, raise needle by one step (probably 2 steps) and see if that helps. If you get to the lowest clip position (richest setting) on the needle and still are dangerously lean in the middle, then get a needle that's richer in the middle. Remember that needle position can overlap your pilot and main, so sometimes messing with the needle throws something else out. I had a good diagram from google, but I can't post it here.
  12. I hate to jump in, as I do enjoy unbiased opinions of technical situations, but here's my 2 cents..... Top ends should really always run between 1-1.5mm squish clearance. Realistically, you could get away with as much as 1.8-2mm squish, but you'll be wasting your fuel/air mix. 1.8 is where I would draw the line on any engine personally. If the compression is high enough to start detonation, then your choices are increase jetting, increasing octane (unless already at the maximum), decrease spark advance, colder plug (B8ES for town, B9ES for higher speeds) or lower compression by increasing combustion chamber volume. If you can increase the squish clearance a bit and still stay within range, that would also be an option. I have quite a few kits out there, and use myself and my friends as testers, and I can say that we've never had problems with geometric compression ratios of 10:1 and below, provided that jetting and timing is correct. I normally do heads at about 9.5:1. I would recommend doing some plug chops to see how its running. Definitely make sure that squish clearance isn't too tight. If you determine that the squish is good and it in fact needs the combustion chamber opened up to increase that safety margin, please do let me know. My favorite part of this job is having people be happy with the work I've done. If things need altering, drop me a line and we'll work it out to make that happen.
  13. Sounds like a loose connection or a switch issue to me. You have electronic (purple and brown are in fact the same power coming up from the junction box)? If the headlight AND speedo go out, your rear tail light probably goes out as well. If you could still honk your horn (i assume you hadn't tried, because who would!?), then it's almost certainly the switch and your brown power wire is fine. If you can't use the horn, then it's the brown wire coming up from loom. Your test should be a safe way to tell if its your brown wire. The headlight will be powered off your purple and the speedo off the brown. If it's the brown wire coming up, then only the speedo will go out and headlight will stay on. The way I would try to test the switch is to remain using the purple for the headlight, put the switch to headlight position, do not use red or blue for anything (tape off), put speedo wire back with the blacks. If it is the switch, then you speedo light should drop out, but your headlight will safely continue working off the purple for you ride home. Your tail light, however, will probably go out with the speedo.
  14. We seem to have no shortage of italian cranks that need rebuilding and LI125 barrels. Dont worry too much about either one of those parts. I rarely try oil or anti-seize anything for very long. My philosophy is remove enough metal from any part and it will come loose. Hammer the piston crown (in an intelligently designed manner) until it comes loose or you have a big hole in the crown. If a big hole, I use a sawzall to cut a sliver out of the piston. Knock the sliver out, collapse the piston in on itself and it comes loose. Harder work, but quicker results.
  15. I understand about the outside of the tube. I figured I would hit that just lightly, then grind it smooth. Of course, that won't leave much of weld for strength left. I like the support tube idea! I may use that! That hole in the headset serves no purpose at all then, if I'm not using the wiring on the left hand side, correct?
  16. Mines a later indian GP, but has the same turn signal type stuff on the left hand side. I'd happily take advice if he's fixed them properly in the past. Seems an easy weld job, just wanna make sure that I'm not missing something on that cutout before I go building up the inner tube with weld.
  17. So I started working on my indian GP conrtols tonight. I have a beat up indian shift tube that needed some straightening, so I went to slide the shift tube onto the headset and noticed right away (thankfully!) that the headset perch was a bit flexible. Turns out there's a hairline crack more than halfway around the perch, where the wiring cutout is. I grabbed an LI headset I have laying around and see that there's a cutout on it (first picture). Anyone know if that cutout is there for a reason? The clutch cable goes through the cutout in the front, and there's no wiring on an LI on the left side. Is the hole in the first picture necessary?...... IMG_0698 by MrLloyd007, on Flickr The reason I ask is that I have to weld this hairline crack before I go any further. You can see that my cutout (picture below) is much larger because of the intended wiring on the left side. And also much weaker. Hence that crack. You can also see that it's blanked off, so I'm not using the left hand wiring. You can also just see the crack at the top, closer toward the headset. It goes pretty far around. Because this metal is pretty thin, I'm thinking to build up the crack on the inside quite heavy/wide for support and only do a skim and smooth on the outside where the actual shift tube will spin. Before I do something stupid, is there any reason I can't build up the inside of this tube? Obviously, leaving enough room for the control rod to go through and move freely. Any thoughts/ideas/comments would be appreciated. Thanks! IMG_0699 by MrLloyd007, on Flickr
  18. I guess technically you could (or should?) measure from the flat in the casing that the drive side bearing sits against. Add the bearing width, plate width, clearance, half a web, and that's the starting point for the low side of the machining. Add rod width plus clearance to get the upper stop point. Personally, I would add around 0.010"-0.015" either side of the big end to play it safe. Of course, that would lower primary compression, but it seems stuffing the crankcase has fallen out of favor these days anyway. If we can't find the measurements, maybe it would be a good idea for each of us to measure, compare notes, then offer them to the club.
  19. I've never seen the measurements off hand, but then again, I haven't been looking for them either. The 60mm stroke cranks just make it with no modifications, right? A 62mm crank would protrude 1mm more, so probably somewhere in the range 1.2-1.4mm should work. Obviously, double check that. I think 62 is the biggest you can go without building up the casing. Measuring off of the drive side plate, adding web width plus clearance, big end, etc should be fairly easy. If you don't find the measurements or a proper answer from someone, let me know. I have a bunch of cases and cranks here that I could lay out the measurements and get em to you. I recently bought a boring head for my mill to start doing crank work.....haven't gotten to it yet though.
  20. Before drilling holes or modifying the carb in any way, try some different pilot jets first. Opening the idle speed screw lets more air in, implying that perhaps you're too rich on the pilot. If you're already 2 turns out, try turning out further. See if that helps or hurts. Never ride with the mixture screw more than 3 turns out though. Turning the screw out leans the mix, so if you're more than 3 turns out, drop the pilot one number and start again at 1-1 1/2 turns out.
  21. Nah, nothing yet. I promised myself I would finish my GP before I put the TV up on the bench. Just finished painting the GP, so I'm getting closer! Probably this winter at some point. I plan on having it in daily rider mode by spring. I'm excited to tear into it though!
  22. Oh!...it got lost in translation. It's almost bed time for me, sorry, I'm a bit slow at this hour. Average top speed probably? The actual average speed (325/9) is 36.1mph. That's closer to my long ride calculations. For a second there I was ready to throw the towel in on my whole operation! haha. Very nice showing though! I'm very interested in those races. It's quite a drive for me unfortunately, so I can only hit one a year. 3 a year total, no?
  23. Nice work! What else do you know about the land speed federation? I'd really like to hit the Lake Tahoe run either next year or the one after. An average speed of 65 seems quite good. I'd imagine your top speed must be 75+ to hit that, with gas stops and all. The only lambretta running?
  24. I've often wondered how that design worked. There's probably a good reason they got rid of that design! ha. This is what you mean? And also for those who don't understand, so they can scratch their head and say "huh?" too. If it must go in in two separate pieces, which i'm pretty sure it must, then it could/should be possible to true it while in the casing using a dial gauge, with a snug but not tight bolt. Same process as truing a crank on a stand....just way harder. I believe it's the flywheel end that is free to shift, no? Install the "drive side" of the crank, assemble. A rough location could be made by installing the flywheel side housing/bearing. Then remove the flywheel side bearing, true by measuring with a dial gauge at the furthest point from the center of the crank on the flywheel side. I made a crappy video some time back on an easy way to visualize crank truing. I would probably use a bit of loc-tite on the bolt too. Having said all that, I'll admit that I have never done one. Only have seen a mk 1 engine assembly in mid rebuild once. Therefore, I must admit that I have no proof that I have any idea what i'm actually talking about. Shame your on the west coast. I'd pay someone 20 bucks just for the opportunity to do one of these!
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