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Solerunner1

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Everything posted by Solerunner1

  1. I've never had much trouble with the "knock, tap, pry, heave, lever" method, but next time I do I'm trying this method! It'll put a lot more force in the area where it needs, without the impact of hitting anything. Good tip!
  2. Glad it made it there safe! I must have put enough "fragile" stickers on it Just remember that it's bored to the stock/tight clearance! It's gonna need some careful break in!
  3. Cutting a reed valve type boost port almost always opens up into the one intake stud hole. The common method is to install the intake stud (you could use sealant on the threads, but not really necessary) and grind, blend, and smooth it right into the boost port contour. The threads are a tight fit, there's a gasket on the top, and a washer to cover the top of the manifold hole. With the pressures that the intake tract sees, there's no real danger of an air leak.
  4. Over the course of this year we've converted all our bikes over here to the sticky's book tab washer conversion. Using the chain guide tab washer. Absolutely love it! Nothing left to worry about! It is a bit of a pain to do, but you'll never have one come loose again.
  5. When I used to play with SH carbs on tuned bikes, I found a style of mikuni jet that fit the stock atomiser. They're a smaller round head. Pretty sure these are it, but can't be certain... http://jetsrus.com/a_jets_by_carburetor_type/jets_mikuni_N102-221_main_Small_round.htm I don't think the number sizes match up, so you'd need to start on a totally different scale. They go up to 240 though. That oughta be enough fuel! ha
  6. I use the generic, big, 3 jaw puller on J ranges and it works with careful operation. I've had the plan to build a proper one for a long time, but the idea only has urgency during, and immediately after, removing one. Within 10 minutes it's fallen way down the list of things to do. ha
  7. You're certain you have the points set right? If they're too far out you won't get any spark (but will get voltage). Err on the closer side of the points gap for a stronger spark. The standard type feeler gauge I have won't get in there well enough. If you're positive of that, then I'd be swapping out the condensor (and points while i'm doing it)? I had the same problem with the last cento and LI points systems I worked on. After a lot of fussing around, it turned out to be just the points being off.
  8. That appears to be an original crank. The "casa" actually says "casar" I believe. I have no proof of why, but I assume perhaps its another company that worked on the rods (either made them, or did the copper plating?) I have a lot of old cranks with the CG2 and Casar on them, so I'm fairly certain it's original. The side float wouldn't cause the seal to leak, and personally I wouldn't worry too much about that side clearance. The rod is centralized by the piston shims, so it's not as important as on "big end centralized" cranks. A twisted crank could possibly cause the seal to leak, but I wouldn't worry too much about checking it. As was said earlier, for the sake of reliability, the only solid way to proceed would be to replace the crank, and in my opinion, the bearings and seals while you've gone that far (I prefer the single sealed drive side bearing for extra seal protection). 8,500 miles really isn't a bad run! If you're curious about the crank, I check crank true for free (provided you pay shipping both ways, so not technically free). If I've gotta break out a big hammer, I've gotta charge though
  9. I'll take the standard copper style any day over those fiber type ones. I had one collapse into several pieces like that last year and spoke to a few other people who had the same thing. Mine was definitely installed tightly. While it's certainly possible that it loosened up, a gasket that falls apart into several pieces is a no go for me. I'm not really too concerned why it happens, all I know is that if it does happen several hundred miles from home I'm screwed. At least a loose joint on a copper gasket isn't a complete failure. That being said, the alloy and copper 4 stud versions appear quite good! Personally, I'll stay away from those fiber ones though.
  10. I'm a hoarder. I won't be selling anything, but I'll be buying a bunch of stuff though! I'll also be hitting the after party!
  11. From my experience, a 190 needs a 48 pilot. I've never known a 45 to be rich enough. The -5 atomiser is too lean at low throttle openings for a 190. A 115 main on a 20mm carb might be close, but I'd guess a bit higher personally. No idea on the slide, but a 48, -2, and 118 main is my guess.
  12. I run a standard round type (ducati?) HT coil on my cento. Works fine. Not sure how to check the condensor, but with a bad condensor I believe you will still get voltage through. Just not enough charge to cause the spark to discharge. Another possibility could be the points gap is off. I use the standard type flat feeler gauge and it won't fit in the flywheel slot on a cento. I had to break the correct feeler in my set in half long-ways to get it in there properly. Have you tried rubbing the green wire coming out of the stator against the casing while kicking? You should get a visible spark there.
  13. Is the casing and/or barrel indian? With the standard base gasket, the timings (in standard format) are 162 and 106. 106 transfer timing is quite low. I would double check that, but I've seen some terrible port windows in indian barrels. That's why I ask. The 2mm packing up option is then- 170 deg exhaust and 116 deg transfer. That's still quite low transfer timing, but it's better. I'm wondering if the upper edge of the transfer windows are quite poorly lined up. If those measurements are correct, then I would pack up the barrel, take off the top of the barrel to correct squish, and still have the transfer ports taken up to 120 deg at least. It will work without fixing the transfers though. Also, what is the "deck height"- with piston at tdc, the distance from the edge of the piston crown (the part of the piston that actually controls the port windows opening and closing) to the top of the barrel?
  14. That happens (sort of) with the suzuki short barrels. Having the transfers line up a bdc does have a cooling effect on the piston crown, but I've never known it to be a problem unless you're running racing speeds. For me, it's all about a compromise to achieve the optimal setting. Transfer timings are top for me in these cases. Squish clearance is obviously at the top too. I don't personally worry too much about the bottom of the exhaust port going below the piston. If i can fix it, of course I will. But it's not the end of the world if its a fair bit below. If its above, then I open in up to get to the bottom. I would not open up the bottom of the transfer ports however, as there's far too much room for error. Unless you're doing extensive testing on scavenging, best to leave that alone. That could certainly be a remedy. Definitely check timings though first and make sure you can keep everything where it needs to be.
  15. The barrel ended up on my shelf, if I remember correctly. More important than that would be the transfer port timing. If blocking it up takes it over 128-130 degrees (personally, I like 125), then you can make performance and fuel consumption worse. If you can stay in range transfer-wise, then you can do it. You can use an online port timing calculator like this: http://www.lambretta-images.com/archive/porttiming.php#.VRxjdvnF_T9 Use your measurements from the barrel, find the actual deck height, then add the total you want to raise the barrel up- to the deck height on the calculator. You can play around with that to find the best compromise.
  16. Hey guys! The Middle of Nowhere Scooter Club is putting on our 4th rally in Stroudsburg, PA! Its the last weekend in April (24-26). Pre-registration ends on April 1st, but you can still register at the event. Our club is almost entirely Lambretta (we have one V3$p@ guy ruining it for us! haha). We have a good weekend planned and judging by pre-reg we should be bigger than last year. It's at a great hotel that let's us have fun! If you're itching for a rally after the long winter, please check us out! Here's the link: https://sites.google.com/site/whiskeydickrally/registration
  17. Yup. A little behind the crown doesn't hurt much either. There's a few kits coming through with no head gaskets these days. With variables in all of the lengths of things, the stroke itself should still be quite accurate. Or at least not more than 0.5mm off (at least we hope not!). So if a manufacturer makes a kit with no head gasket and specifies between 1-1.5mm squish clearance, then they're relying on a given deck height. A deck height, plus or minus 0.25mm is still plenty accurate enough to determine port height bottoms for the transfer and exhaust ports. Hence, setting the squish sets the port height bottoms (58.25mm + deck). So you can set it all up without head gaskets. It should always be checked of course though. Hope that makes sense. Ha. And Wrekkah, that's how I look at the carbs too! It depends on which side of the slide the screw is on.
  18. That's a good article Wrekkah! I think it makes things fairly clear. Also, on PWK's turning the idle screw IN richens, and turning it OUT leans it out. Stock lambretta carbs are the opposite. With all the choke stuff, it sounds like a small air leak to me. Turning the choke on at idle should have a pretty significant effect.
  19. 1- How has the idle been as you changed from 40 up though 50. That's normally enough to make the idle messy on one end or the other. If you haven't had much change, you could have a small air leak somewhere. I had a similar issue once and it was an MB manifold slightly hitting a fin. Very slight intake gasket leak. 2- How's the main jet seem? Sometimes a very over rich main jet can over richen most of the throttle range, causing you to lean the needle back. You're running a leaner needle than most, and most of my 190's with that carb run in the 120-135 range....I think. I jet a lot of carbs, but never keep any records. Stupid I know. 3- Also check float height. You could also have a low float height causing you to over richen the main to get most of the throttle range good, leaving a lean spot right at the beginning.
  20. They must have used an odd type "Lambretta" badge for the american import. I'm gonna be using a Perspex "Grand Prix 150" badge on the bottom, which works. And just drill new holes (after painting!) for the matching Perspex "Lambretta" badge above. To be clear, it looks like both holes need to be drilled for the Lambretta badge on top. Making sure it's centered and level will be important. You can't use one existing hole and just drill the other. It's a lambretta and that would be too easy. haha
  21. Was your GP an american import too? I can't remember. I just had an issue with mine that the upper badge doesn't fit. I have to drill new holes. Thankfully larger than the old ones. And the italian GP150 didn't fit either. The laminate style (upper style) "Grand Prix 150" Does fit though. Scooter Restorations had both. I can get some measurements of mine if you need comparisons. I didn't fit them yet.
  22. By 12V upgrade you mean electronic ignition/12v upgrade? There are numerous ways to do that, but most require wire changes of some kind. Was the wiring harness changed? When in "full light" switch mode, the brown wire supplies the switch, which supplies power to the headlight, tail light, and speedo light. When in "parking mode" as you put it, the purple wire supplies the switch, which supplies power to the tail light and speedo light. The horn "should" come off of the brown in the headset. If that's true, then I would guess you lost the brown power wire after the horn connection. Then everything would happen just as you say it did. Again, that only stands if it's wired as per the stock diagram. I'm also assuming that when you took the headset apart you inadvertently knocked a green wire (kill switch), and the horn wire (should be on one of the brown connections, but could be on the purple) off. Do you have a voltage tester and a diagram to work with?
  23. It says in their catalog that it's a KX250 piston in that kit. Can you get the number off of the crown by any chance? I think all the wisecos have numbers stamped on them.
  24. Bell's book says you can pull max power up until 205C/401F, but in his wording he appears to call 218C/424F and above entering the meltdown zone. Pretty much in accordance to what Vader says. Anything above 400F I would consider danger. The one thing I like about measuring at the spark plug is that it's a solid and repeatable connection to accurately compare notes between riders and bikes. I'll be adding them to several bikes this season, so hopefully learn a lot more on temps. I've read various opinions, pro and con, on both CHT and EGT gauges. They both seem to have their strong and weak points.
  25. They've had that problem with LED's for a long time, but I think they're wrapping that issue up. The other month I installed a bunch of LED flood bulbs in an open loft type living room (2 1/2 stories up) and they flooded the room with light better than the incandescent ones I replaced. I forget the wattage, but it was very little, with an 80 watt equivalent....OH!, and just remembered I did 150 watt equivalent big outdoor LED spot lights for a township's road salt bins last year. That would be much more like headlights. And they worked well. Certainly automotive LED headlights are coming....or already here somewhere? I may look more into this and try some others out. Corey, can you send the info of the ones you bought? So I know to stay away from those. ha. If I find any that work, you guys will be the first to know!
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