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Solerunner1 last won the day on October 23 2018

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About Solerunner1

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  • Currently Owned Lambrettas
    Li Ser 1
    GP 150
    Li125 ser3
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  1. Sorry I'm late! I didn't know we were talking about piston conversions!! Ha. I still do a bunch of iron barrel 186cc tunes. I prefer not to shorten the cylinders these days, but its still a good option if you want to avoid the cost of a crank rebuild. That's definitely a 107 mazzuchelli rod rebuild, Wiseco Ts185 piston (they don't differentiate an ER type), and shortened barrel. Wiseco rings tend to be a larger gap than one might expect, so anything less than 0.020" out of the box is ok, although 0.010" is optimal. The only way to measure bore clearance is with a proper bore gauge. I measure barrels for free (plus shipping of course) and check con rod/big end wear for free as well, but regardless, if you need a new piston, that's an older wiseco number. The new number is 176M06400. If you suspect you need a rebore, you could use a local bore/machine shop...then buy a 176M06450 and have them bore it to 0.0035", no less! Although for this one you also need to shorten the piston skirt. The generally accepted amount is to take 8mm from the skirt, although I think I've gone as little as 6.5mm to keep intake timing more reasonable (If I'm not doing it, tell them 7mm). I sell them for $110 standard, shortened I could do $125. Also, that barrel isn't ported much, if at all. These can be great kits for short money if set up well. The head/combustion chamber should be checked too, to make sure it's not too high of a compression ratio...I've made that mistake myself in the past! It comes from recutting at too shallow of an angle and not opening up the chamber to compensate.
  2. I thought about going further myself. 0.002" can turn into 0.001" under heat. Too much heat can turn it into 0 pretty quick! When you think of it that way, 0.004" isn't really much clearance. Personally, if I didn't have a book to consult I would probably set it around 0.010", which still really isn't that much! I decided to follow sticky's book spec. I totally understand your frustration! You have every right to have a problem with this situation. That said, having sort of been on the "production" end of things (and getting more and more into it!), this sort of thing is a very easy pitfall for a company, especially one that doesn't actually have a factory to make things. They design on a computer, get quotes, and go with their best judgement. Things like hardness (an issue they've had) is almost impossible to measure after the fact, unless they checked every individual part, which they don't. The important thing to me is how they handle a mistake when it happens. It's also a simple error that cost you a lot of money and that sucks!
  3. So, this clutch assembly ended up at my place. We finally got around to installing it today. I totally forgot that it was the "problem" clutch from this thread. Of course, I torqued the clutch nut down...and it locked solid. A quick search brought me back here, so I figured I would follow up. The ruler clearance showed about 0.002", which should be ok. After playing around quite a bit I found that the assembly didn't lock up until after 40ft/lbs, so it wasn't much that needed to come off! Fortunately, I have a surface grinder about 10 ft from the engine. It took about 10 mins to grind 0.0015" off the back. It took longer to zero the wheel than to cut it. Re-assembly went fine. I tried the original crown wheel and the clearance was the same. It appears to be an issue with the center spider. When I was reading 0.002" on the original set up, I substituted for another BGM spider and it showed 0.004". For this small of an amount I chose to take it off of the back of the sprocket, without checking chain alignment. Taking off where I did, the sprocket will be dropped back an equal amount. If this issue was larger, the correct way would be to check chain alignment first, then find out which side of the sprocket needed machining. It's nice to have a full machine shop in the same place you build engines ?
  4. Yeah, certainly seems good. You can also check green wire voltage when kicking the bike over, although note- the voltage is high enough to shock you if you're hands are touching the wire. Depending on kicking speed (start slow and work your way up) it could be as high as 40 volts if I remember correctly. If you've got voltage, then I'd definitely suspect a bad CDI.
  5. On an electronic, the easiest way I find is to check the stator first. Checking Ohms with a mulit-meter, Red to white should be around 90-95 ohms. Green to white should be between 400-650. Those numbers are approximate/off the top of my head. Pretty sure they're right on though. If the stator is good, and the green wire to frame check comes out good, then I'd go with a cdi change. Also, try removing the green wire coming from the loom, which is the kill switch. A faulty kill switch will do it too. I've had good results with the cheap indian ones considering the cost. I've had a few bad solder joints on the stator (easy fix), 2 bad cdi's, and one bad regulator. To replace any of those parts was still way below cost of other higher end kits....which we've also had bad cdi's and solder joints on. If it's indian, I would definitely start with a stator check.
  6. https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/racing+cylinder+quattrini+_15059000 That's pictures of the P200 version, which uses the same system. My guess is that it only uses the studs. My other guess is that there's ample side play in the little end to account for rod clearance. While we obviously want the barrel and piston to run dead center of the crank center line, it's not actually as critical as you might think. Side to side, the rod could be thrust into a crank web or the piston, that's why I say there'll be plenty of clearance. Up and down- The Gordon Blair book talks about offsetting the barrel to achieve asymmetrical port timings....which is quite a head scratcher if you think about it for while! haha.
  7. I read in one of the earlier writings about it that that's exactly why they use the long rod. I just don't think 1mm difference would be too much trouble.
  8. I question reliability in the long run (perhaps even the short run!), but it's definitely a unique design! If a 115 rod will work (it should), send me an old worn out GP crank and the kit. I'll send back a 115 Yamaha rod, welded crank for $200 that will handle it, and build a pipe for it for half the chiselspeed cost (minus silencer). Send me the casings and I'll port them for cheap, match it all, and set the squish. The only catch is- I move slow in the winter, so turn around takes a while. I might be able to shave some more money off, just for the fun of building a killer engine like this!
  9. I have several headsets around I can take pictures of. I kinda forget too, but the headset must have the outer cable housings, because the clamp is just a small piece. Is it a proper J range cable outer? Or specific lambretta for that matter? I've never had trouble with the outer gear cables coming out. Perhaps routed wrong? I seem to remember questioning the cable routing on our starstream. Fortunately, I had a complete cento handy to look at. I sort of remember them going on the opposite "cable/wire slot" than what you would think. I wanna say all cables went in the back, and just speedo and wiring went in the front slot? I can check more in depth tomorrow though.
  10. The trouble with any carb or exhaust change is that most likely you'll need to grind the barrel out to match things. Not sure I would do that to a tv200 barrel. If you ever did decide you wanted to play around with the top end, I might shelf the tv barrel and start with a GP200 set up. You can get them pretty cheap. Then you can grind away guilt free!
  11. You're right, we mean different things. Wiseco, wossner, and af use the term compression height when talking about wrist pin to piston crown. I've always read the term deck height when referring to the lip between piston crown and top of barrel. Either way is fine with me. If you say a 32mm deck height or 0.5mm deck height, I'd know what you meant either way.
  12. With a deck of 0.8, then with a 0.5 head gasket, you can get within range of 1.3mm squish. Do you have another 200 head you could check the profile on? Alternatively, you could run no head gasket, have the head cut with a recess to get 1.1/1.2mm squish. Although in this case, I wouldn't recommend going through that trouble for such little gain.
  13. If you're reading squish clearances like that, you could be losing 15-20% of your power right there. One thing you could try first, although difficult with the engine in the scoot, is to measure the deck height. That will give you a base to work with. If the deck height is, say 1.8mm, then it won't matter much what you do with the head. Bare minimum will always be 1.8mm. That gap would have to be closed up one way or another. Deck height + gasket thickness + head recess - torque compression = squish clearance. None of that is very easy to measure accurately, but it will give you a ball park of what you'll get when you bolt it together, rather than just assemble and hope it's right. It's common to find the head contour not match the piston dome on stock heads. If the deck height is within range, then I'd get a new head cut, or use a newer type 200 head. The trouble with that is that a new 200cc head may still be wrong on the contour. Every head I do gets matched to the piston being used. I would definitely start there before I went altering a rare barrel.
  14. As of now, nothing. Bummer. The moped race in August is the same weekend as Northern Aggression, which our group is going to. I think AD is planning on moving to Nicaragua, so he's probably out. It is a closed Facebook group, but if someone asks to be invited, they'll be accepted. "Scooter Racing Community Council" That said, I'm still game. I was thinking maybe line up a weekend at either Beaver Valley (that's the spot you know?) or Oakland Valley in NY. Even if we can get a fun time for a few of us, I'd be willing do that! I'll message AD right now and see what he says.
  15. Thanks for the input everybody! I'm the same way! No existing parts would be harmed! My other option was going to be to machine bronze bushings that would fit standard dampers to the existing posts. Thankfully it looks like I won't have to do that! It would go something like- Find a generic thinner rubber insert, or perhaps machine nylon ones, to fit the main eye of standard dampers (with all existing rubber removed). Then machine bronze sleeves, OD to fit inside the rubber/nylon and ID to fit nicely on the posts. Fairly simple set of operations, but a considerable amount of work compared to just buying a set that fits.
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