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Stu aka S.Hanson #17

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Posts posted by Stu aka S.Hanson #17


  1. Yup I agree.  I think I feel bad for the company seeing how they have been around since the beginning of American motorcycling.  Plagued by executive and owners that never could see the future coming at them and being unwilling to adapt. They barely made it out of the amc disaster. I see only two ways out for them. One is to aggressively downsize making the product exclusive with a cap on how many units are made each year.  The other is to make an entry level bike, gas or electric for $5000 to $7000. If you are 18 to 25 and have a job, you can probably afford that. Or if you are new to riding, its not to big a gamble to see if you will enjoy it. Yes,  the era of $30,000 cruiser behemoths you cant pick up off the ground is rapidly coming to a close under the current economic forecast.

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  2. I believe so, but the top end was entirely set up by Adam so he knows the details. I'm guessing it was finding the right combo of the 62mm crank, rod length and squish clearance to give timings of about 190, 130. I just did the bottom end. The bike is really light too. I'd love to run it on the salt. 👍😉


  3. At the end of last years riding season I had what I thought was a blown seal. Bike idled fine but when put in gear and let the clutch out , the bike dies.  If I feather the clutch and get the bike moving, it would run but I had to really over rev it. So I pulled the motor, had a third transfer cut in the case and cylinder and while it was all apart had the seals replaced. I learned some new info and thought I'd share. I was told that the spigot (the bottom of the cylinder that fits into the case) on rb20's is a little on the thin side and on some kits can warp and go egg shaped and pinch the piston. During the cutting of the new transfer,  this problem was discovered on my cylinder.  It was slight and corrected with a hone, but is an issue that can happen again. If it deforms alot, it can seize the motor. The solution to fix the issue is to resleeve the cylinder and use a smaller piston. Thanks to Adam Bower for the work and info!

    First, second and third picture is prior to 3rd transfer. You can see how thin the spigot is

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  4. I believe servetas had li style bodywork, some used sx style side panels , sx/ tv horncast/ headset on some models. Please correct me if I'm wrong. My question, is did any serveta model use tv/li special style bodywork such as side panels? 


  5. Not really sure what other people do, but I suspect since s.i.p. speedos have egt and c.h.t. gauge compatibility , that's what is most common. I have been using a westach 2 inch gauge for 15 to 20 years. I think if you have a tuned motor for touring or race, it is a must have, at least for set up. I prefer egt to cht. I can tell immediately what a change in carburation,  plugs, timing, compression and weather does. Westach egt gauge is what I use. You will have to buy a thermocouple as well. I suggest the 1 1/4 inch clamp on probe.  They do sell weld on sensor lugs that the thermocouple can be screwed into. They also sell a double 2 inch gauge for egt and cht.  Be sure you get a gauge that works in the correct heat range. 100 to 1900 works well. How and where you mount it is up to you. I modified a second headset top, so I can switch back to a stock look. I have seen people using modified under headset mirror mount brackets

    www.westach.com

    https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/exhaust+gas+temperature+sensor+_5001egtj

     

     

     

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    Screenshot_20191202-103257_Gallery.jpg

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