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Stu aka S.Hanson #17

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Everything posted by Stu aka S.Hanson #17

  1. I just wipe mine down with acf 50 but i dont ride in the rain. You could try gun oil or othere products for keeping fire arms from rusting too. Here is a link to a discussion that might be helpful It really depends on the final look you are going for. If you clear coat with paint or powder coat it will look shiney and could possibly yellow with age. If you just oil it you have to keep up with it and watch the weather.... Also, can this topic be moved to Painting bodywork info?
  2. Not mine, don't know the person. And it's not a hitch mount, but they are only asking $150 http://scoot.net/classifieds/forsale.html?id=60381
  3. Human sacrifice, dogs and cats living together... mass hysteria! I feel a little bad not being helpful. Here is a site that has been very helpful when I have had questions and issues with my RD. They have a section on small displacement motorcycles. Micro muscle :under 100cc http://www.2strokeworld.com/forum/index.php Also, I do know that with yamahas the battery must be in top condition/full charge and if not , it will not start. If there is an extra load on the electical system it can stall a bike. Such as a battery that is not being charged when the bike is running and you turn on the turn signal, brake light or headlight the bike can stall. Even the wrong bulbs in a bike can cause a problem
  4. I used split washers and locknuts. It was/is solid. The nuts are still tight, but it's as if the whole stud started to pull through. Looks normal from the front and didn't wobble. If I try to loosen the nut, the studs spin like they stripped.
  5. Had to remove my rear hub and found an issue I don't understand. As you can see the hub stud should sit slightly above the hub. In the case of mine, it looks like the stud is being pulled through the hub. Obviously the hub is toast and it started to elongated the rim holes so the rim is wrecked as well. Just another crappy part or incorrect install? The hub came with the studs installed from factory. I don't want this happening again
  6. I agree with vdublammy. It's only original once. Coerce those dents out, upgrade the cylinder. A real winner!
  7. That sidewalk welding/brazing is hardcore! Solepower!
  8. I'd rent a car before I uber that far. Enterprise sometimes has deals like $10 a day rentals
  9. Cool place in Allentown if you collect vinyl http://www.doubledeckerrecords.com
  10. There's got to be a lot of people coming from philly. If no luck connecting with someone here, maybe Andrea at scooters o has a suggestion. I'm sure she's swamped so only as a last resort. I would volenteer, but I'm at least an hour and a half from Philly
  11. Ha! Yeah, that's real wear and tear. Finished! It screams! The horn doesn't work and there is no speedo. I'll deal with that later. Runs a little rich in mid range with a 300 main so I will drop the needle a clip or 2. It also has a 30 idle jet. Thanks to Solerunner1 for selling me the bike and the top end work , Boeingpilot for the electical help on his family day, Tinman for the carb., Mike Anhalt fot the disc, and everyone here who gave input and thanks to scooterspeed for parts. See you at LammyJammy!
  12. What brand stator plate? Did you check the connections on the stator or just where the stator wires connect to?
  13. So this past weekend I completed all the mechanical. Started the bike, idles well, running rich. Brake light works. Just took it up the drive in 1st. Ran in 1st gear well. Front brake works well. Revs are a little long to drop and there was popping like I should check the timing. I did put 9 month old gas in it, so that might be the intermittent popping. The carb is a weird 30 tmx with power jet. As I understand it, you should cut back the main by 25%. I think that works out to if I run a 300 main, I should cut it back to a 220. The power jet is at 80. I am running a 210 main, needle is 2nd clip from the bottom (rich) . Any one familiar with power jets, suggestions appreciated. Yup, gori seat. Thanks. Hey Tony, the disc is an early 90's home made rig.
  14. Trying to get this finished for Lammy Jammy. I'll try to find before pictures. 1959 Ser.1 with rapido race w/boost port, LTH reedvalve, rayspeed welded crank, Avanti head(R.Moss, A.F. Rayspeed Mammoth head), 12 volt electronic, lightened flywheel, LTH 7 plate clutch, mikuni 30 tmx, Franspeed exhaust, Cyclone 5 (version 2).
  15. So what's going g on with this? Is it still on? I don't have Facebook so I can't see what's up and when I try to see on Facebook thru other people's accounts it's a closed group. Doesn't seem promotional friendly. Should I still be building or has this sputtered out?
  16. I am looking for the email address for 21st Century Lambretta (21c). They are on Facebook but I am not on Facebook. Can't make out the email address. Thanks! https://m.facebook.com/groups/546835528832326/?view=group
  17. Honestly, a $450 clutch shouldn't need this kind of playing with. I have a third motor with a stock 4 speed I will try the cassette on and thenif iT still binds, I'm done. At this point I'm just keeping people informed rather than looking for an answer. We'll see. Thanks! Tried the 3rd motor with the 4 speed. Still wobbles with finger pressure and binds the spider so it drags. I can't imagine I should go through the effort of putting it all back together and trying to run it again. If I can create drag with finger pressure Im sure 18hp pulling on one side of the chain will create a lot more... Done
  18. Indian bushing did not work. When clutch nut is tightened down it locks the spider and sprocket together...
  19. Sh#t. Thanks for looking into that for me. I'll get my indian bushings Friday and have a chance to install on Saturday morning. If it rocks and binds I will see what the dealer wants to do for me. I'm sure they will be fair. Yup, starting to see we get the earliest versions of stuff because the Europeans refuse to accept old stuff and know to ask for the most recent versions of items that actually consistently work. Seen a lot of a$$ kissing on euro sites of how great parts are. Don't know what kind of deals our suppliers work out, but they should be able to send back crap that doesn't work. And as for the hokey excuse of "this item is intended for the race track blah blah...." that might have worked in the late '80's but that's serious BS now. I just want a clutch I can put in an Rb and have it work correctly without having to experiment . ...asking to much? And people thought ScootRs was bad.
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