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Stu aka S.Hanson #17

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Everything posted by Stu aka S.Hanson #17

  1. Not my idea but clever if you don't have the tool. Pictures taken from: http://blue-ashtray.blogspot.com/2011/11/blog-post.html?m=1
  2. What does it feel like riding on that surface? 4 or 5 speed gearbox's ? What stroke crank self destructed? Love the pictures! Bikes look well put together. Great job! Todd, how much does your bike weigh?
  3. Had a similar experience many years ago. I called the police just to get a report so insurance wouldn't give me a hard time. Also had a ton of receipts for parts that helped too. An initial inspection of how the bodywork fits is a good place to start. If panels, floorboards no longer fit tight or when riding the steering feels stiff or has a "gyroscopic" kind of feeling thats a problem. Good idea to take the headset top off and inspect the handlebars for cracks in the aluminum. Did he just drive away or stick around for you?
  4. Anyone familiar with the l.t.h. overrev variable ignition or s.i.p. variable ignition? I know the l.t.h. has 16 different curves to choose from and the s.i.p. has 2 depending on the cdi you choose (sport or road) . The directions for both are clear as mud. https://www.sip-scootershop.com/EN/Products/510029SD/Ignition+SIP+PERFORMANCE+by.aspx?_country=E993AB67-6807-4109-BBED-F6374EBF9F9B&gpc_origin=shopping&gpc_feed_alias=de&gpc_pid=510029SD&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhJrqBRDZARIsALhp1WTTXsFDygTukIDnxGK7v-Zgvw-R6aZRnxQNDrwYgDt4ConNQRQAOSwaAtZaEALw_wcB https://www.lambretta-teile.de/Ignition-kit-Overrev-12V-120W-with-rotor-Lambretta-GP-dl
  5. I have a modified rb20. 32 tm mikuni, 62mm crank, case weld and transfers opened up all the way on the cylinder. Picture is the kind of work done, but not mine. I currently have a jl mk4. It's the full race. I'm not a huge fan. Although the power kicks in like a turbo it has very little torque down low. I am looking for an exhaust that will give me torque down low but will allow the motor to rev high. There are many choices and I am a bit overwhelmed. Any thoughts, experience is helpful. Chiselspeed CST 4, CST 6, or cst 8 Rayspeed nk Franspeed sport tourer Pipedesign charger or Voyager Jl3 Or is the answer a variable ignition?
  6. Please post pictures of the bikes and event if you can
  7. It would seem to be rich. At least at idle. Choke off? What plug number is it? What carb and what are your carb settings, electronic ignition or points and what is the timing set at ? If you post that info (or some of it), people with similar set ups can chime in with what works for them. Did you mix your gas correctly? I'd say for yours 3oz. or 3.5 oz per gallon. Also, buy 5 plugs keep two with you when you ride... Extra things to bring is a whole other topic
  8. Check your spark plug color first. Is it greasy/black(rich), chocolate brown (just right), chalky grey (lean)? What spark plug are you using? Try swapping it out for a new one. Gap it correctly before installing. Is it totally stock? What are your (stock?) carb settings, timing (points or electronic)? Since it is carbureted and the weather is extremely hot and humid that can make your carb settings rich. Especially if the shop tuned your carb when the weather was cooler and dryer. I think a lot of people on here follow the 3, 3.5, or 4 oz.. per gallon of gas depending on the top end/ state of tune. Have you spoke to the shop to get their thoughts? Keep us posted
  9. Ah yes, I see that now. The bracket is 45 euro and the tie rod is 100 from l.t.h.. guess I'm headed to the welder. That's just $80. Thanks for the pictures!
  10. Adam B. Is getting it, I think. At least it's going to a good home.
  11. Any thoughts on the value of a 1958 Ser.1 Li150 Framebreather? No title, frame is solid, legsheild has rust rot holes, gas tank toast, only paint is on aluminum parts the rest is heavy rust brown. Rims toast, engine seized. It's cheaper from a painter's perspective to replace f.fender, legsheild, floorboards than repair. To get it running doing the minimum, it would need : Rebuild crank, new piston, rings, wrist pin, w.p. bearing, rebore, rebuild carb (possibly replace), new crank bearings , seals, gasket, clutch corks, points, condenser, maybe exhaust, brakes (possibly new hub studs), cables. That's not even rebuilding the bottom end, or the possibility of needing a new wiring harness or electronic ignition, handlebar switch, light bulbs. To get it road ready, full engine rebuild, all new hardware, rubber trim, body gaskets, etc... Thoughts? I'll start :$300. Reason: The amount of work/cost puts it out of reach for most of people especially if they have to pay someone. It also makes very little sense for a collector, restorer, builder, flipper because the return after the investment would be so small, if any. It would be a labor of love with no concern of final worth.
  12. Samples of others set ups. What am I missing? As long as I weld the fork leg bracket on and not the current clamp on, I'm good?
  13. I understand your concern of the possibility of the bracket slipping. I have only seen the brackets as pictured, unless a tab is welded on the forks to take the place of the bolt on bracket. Do you have a picture of the new style clamp on? I cant seem to find one. I did a search on google under lambretta anti dive front disc brake, they all look like my current set up with the bolt on fork leg bracket.
  14. Have to shorten the threaded end of the heim joints so I can screw it further into the coupling to shorten up the entire length of linkage. Also as I understand it, the lower the bracket and linkage is to parallel, the less harsh the anti dive is. Higher up, more aggressive. Please correct me if I'm wrong. This is all just roughly put on to see how it all fits and if it will work together, not the final. I prefer the two female heim joints connected with an 8mm hardened stud and an 8mm nut as a spacer. Much lighter and simple.
  15. Another option that is lighter. Two female heim joints, 8mm threaded rod, 2 8mm nuts.
  16. I have a hydraulic disc that I bought without anti dive awhile back. Seems to be expensive to buy the bracket separately so I am trying to put together my own. Here is what I have so far. Two male 8mm heim joints, one 8mm coupling, two 8mm nuts, one fork leg spaq (kind of crappy) bracket If i can find a longer coupling I can get more adjustment. Looking for a fork leg bracket that will fit with current bgm dampeners like the bgm or targa bolt ons. The down side is my bracket is heavier that what comes with the kit, but it is around $20 so far. I'd prefer a better looking/designed bracket like these. Pictures from scooter speed and piston ported Sorry for the 2x post. I dont know how to delete the double post.
  17. Anyone know of a custom badge maker or a pre made badge for ser 2 side panels that says LI225 and fits where a stock ser 2 tv175 badge goes? Thanks! Like these, but with LI225
  18. https://www.nationalgeographic.com/culture/2019/04/see-wild-creations-indonesia-V3$p@-rebel-riders/
  19. I think you are better off getting a 150 gearbox, but if you want to experiment, casually looking at close ratio gearbox numbers the trees seem to be 11, 14, 16, 18. Loose gears are li 150 1st 50, li150 2nd 41, li125 3rd 39 and a gp200 4th 36 on 18, 47 sprockets. I have also seen 13, 15, 17, 19 tree with 47, 40, 37, 35 loose gears. Dont know the sprockets used. So using what you have: li150 1st and second, li125 3rd and a gp 4th would be interesting. You will have to look at the numbers and try to get to around the numbers listed. I have never mixed gears from different bikes, dont know if any of it will work. I have used close ratio boxes with trees and loose gears manufactured to be used together. Also, serveta gearboxes are said to be weak. I find this sight simple and helpful http://www.scooterhelp.com/tuning/lam.gear.calc.html
  20. I was wondering what the "proper" etiquette would be if you post a question, and people answer your question or give helpful ideas, should you give them an upvote/"like"?
  21. I think I have a solution. I have RD's as well as lambrettas. Just dug through rd cables and found an rd speedo cable with the ends cut off is very close to the lamb brake cable. Very stiff. The black cable with the lamb brake cable inner is the speedo cable, the grey is the original lamb rear brake cable. The speedo cable is thicker and stiffer than a p200 rear brake cable outer Also got turned on to these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EXTRA-LONG-ZINC-PLATED-STEEL-REAR-BRAKE-CABLE-FERRULE-FOR-LAMBRETTA-SCOOTERS/273743861543?hash=item3fbc67d727:g:kxcAAOSwJm9cfVoQ&redirect=mobile Hopefully this will help someone
  22. It's super close, but does not hit while on the center stand, but has good clearance when not on the center stand with a rider sitting on it. Thanks for looking. Checking for motorcycle , ATV and emergency car brake cable.
  23. It is on the center stand for the pictures, so the is more clearance when not on the center stand and the weight of the rider, but still I dont want to pass the rear brake through that
  24. Not possible with the intake and offset frame comes. Has to go over the mount and behind the carb.
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