Stu aka S.Hanson #17

Great if it works.

Yup I agree. I think I feel bad for the company seeing how they have been around since the beginning of American motorcycling. Plagued by executive and owners that never could see the future coming at them and being unwilling to adapt. They barely made it out of the amc disaster. I see only two ways out for them. One is to aggressively downsize making the product exclusive with a cap on how many units are made each year. The other is to make an entry level bike, gas or electric for $5000 to $7000. If you are 18 to 25 and have a job, you can probably afford that. Or if you are new to riding, its not to big a gamble to see if you will enjoy it. Yes, the era of $30,000 cruiser behemoths you cant pick up off the ground is rapidly coming to a close under the current economic forecast.

Anyone care harly d is in the toilet? Can I submit my opinion and it be appropriate on this forum? I know it's not scooter related but interesting.

Kind of neat but this ship has sailed... If you turn down the sound there are some nice scooter clips https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.visordown.com/news/general/quadrophenia-style-mod-film-be-released-year%3famp

I believe so, but the top end was entirely set up by Adam so he knows the details. I'm guessing it was finding the right combo of the 62mm crank, rod length and squish clearance to give timings of about 190, 130. I just did the bottom end. The bike is really light too. I'd love to run it on the salt. 👍😉

At the end of last years riding season I had what I thought was a blown seal. Bike idled fine but when put in gear and let the clutch out , the bike dies. If I feather the clutch and get the bike moving, it would run but I had to really over rev it. So I pulled the motor, had a third transfer cut in the case and cylinder and while it was all apart had the seals replaced. I learned some new info and thought I'd share. I was told that the spigot (the bottom of the cylinder that fits into the case) on rb20's is a little on the thin side and on some kits can warp and go egg shaped and pinch the piston. During the cutting of the new transfer, this problem was discovered on my cylinder. It was slight and corrected with a hone, but is an issue that can happen again. If it deforms alot, it can seize the motor. The solution to fix the issue is to resleeve the cylinder and use a smaller piston. Thanks to Adam Bower for the work and info! First, second and third picture is prior to 3rd transfer. You can see how thin the spigot is

Got it

https://www.lambretta-teile.de/Engine-complete-40hp-Plug-Play-LTH-Quattrini-M200-V3$p@-on-Lambretta-smallblock A V3$p@ quattrini m200 on a Lamb case. Even on a V3$p@ it only makes 30hp (?). If it was that easy, wouldn't the tuning house that makes Quattrini kits just engineer that instead of coming up with the 210 for small blocks? Pretty cool if it puts out the 40hp they say.

Exhaust Gas Temp

Hey Todd. I was studying some of your recent posted pictures and was wondering what the cable is/does on the flywheel side of the motor?

In the gallery area on the site, can you make folders for your pictures or are all the members pictures mixed together? Is there a limit on how many pictures can be uploaded?

A wealth of info. Far more detail than I expected! Did they ever make a serveta in ocher with the tv style panels?

Excellent! Thanks

Yes, please post photos. I am specifically interested in tv side panel examples. So tv style panels with Li horncast and front fender would be factory correct?

https://k2customs.co.uk/products/fork-spring-compressor-tool A different solution How to use it:

I believe servetas had li style bodywork, some used sx style side panels , sx/ tv horncast/ headset on some models. Please correct me if I'm wrong. My question, is did any serveta model use tv/li special style bodywork such as side panels?

I've never used an afr gauge but would be interested in details. What kind of number would be a good balance for air/fuel and where/how is the sensor mounted

Not really sure what other people do, but I suspect since s.i.p. speedos have egt and c.h.t. gauge compatibility , that's what is most common. I have been using a westach 2 inch gauge for 15 to 20 years. I think if you have a tuned motor for touring or race, it is a must have, at least for set up. I prefer egt to cht. I can tell immediately what a change in carburation, plugs, timing, compression and weather does. Westach egt gauge is what I use. You will have to buy a thermocouple as well. I suggest the 1 1/4 inch clamp on probe. They do sell weld on sensor lugs that the thermocouple can be screwed into. They also sell a double 2 inch gauge for egt and cht. Be sure you get a gauge that works in the correct heat range. 100 to 1900 works well. How and where you mount it is up to you. I modified a second headset top, so I can switch back to a stock look. I have seen people using modified under headset mirror mount brackets www.westach.com https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/exhaust+gas+temperature+sensor+_5001egtj

All I can say is I've never had an issue with a rayspeed product. If I've had questions, they are very personable and helpful. Had various problems with no support with BGM and Casa performance. Go for it and let us know!

Are the shouldered nylock nuts you are using designed to be used without a washer? I'd like to use a similar set up. Never saw anyone else use them and want to make sure I am using them what they where designed for.

Welcome to the wonderful world of Lambretta aftermarket parts. No instructions and needs fiddled with to fit. Also only to be used on the race track

Very cool. Looks great! Chain tensioner can be run with chain on top or bottom. Just depends on the chain length and sprockets.

You need an A adapter type kit for non gp. That's what the engineers are for. Ha! I didnt say it would work, just a different way of thinking about it. I like the original tool.

Agreed. A necessity