Stu aka S.Hanson #17

You need an A adapter type kit for non gp. That's what the engineers are for. Ha! I didnt say it would work, just a different way of thinking about it. I like the original tool.

Agreed. A necessity

Not my idea but clever if you don't have the tool. Pictures taken from: http://blue-ashtray.blogspot.com/2011/11/blog-post.html?m=1

What does it feel like riding on that surface? 4 or 5 speed gearbox's ? What stroke crank self destructed? Love the pictures! Bikes look well put together. Great job! Todd, how much does your bike weigh?

Had a similar experience many years ago. I called the police just to get a report so insurance wouldn't give me a hard time. Also had a ton of receipts for parts that helped too. An initial inspection of how the bodywork fits is a good place to start. If panels, floorboards no longer fit tight or when riding the steering feels stiff or has a "gyroscopic" kind of feeling thats a problem. Good idea to take the headset top off and inspect the handlebars for cracks in the aluminum. Did he just drive away or stick around for you?

Anyone familiar with the l.t.h. overrev variable ignition or s.i.p. variable ignition? I know the l.t.h. has 16 different curves to choose from and the s.i.p. has 2 depending on the cdi you choose (sport or road) . The directions for both are clear as mud. https://www.sip-scootershop.com/EN/Products/510029SD/Ignition+SIP+PERFORMANCE+by.aspx?_country=E993AB67-6807-4109-BBED-F6374EBF9F9B&gpc_origin=shopping&gpc_feed_alias=de&gpc_pid=510029SD&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhJrqBRDZARIsALhp1WTTXsFDygTukIDnxGK7v-Zgvw-R6aZRnxQNDrwYgDt4ConNQRQAOSwaAtZaEALw_wcB https://www.lambretta-teile.de/Ignition-kit-Overrev-12V-120W-with-rotor-Lambretta-GP-dl

I have a modified rb20. 32 tm mikuni, 62mm crank, case weld and transfers opened up all the way on the cylinder. Picture is the kind of work done, but not mine. I currently have a jl mk4. It's the full race. I'm not a huge fan. Although the power kicks in like a turbo it has very little torque down low. I am looking for an exhaust that will give me torque down low but will allow the motor to rev high. There are many choices and I am a bit overwhelmed. Any thoughts, experience is helpful. Chiselspeed CST 4, CST 6, or cst 8 Rayspeed nk Franspeed sport tourer Pipedesign charger or Voyager Jl3 Or is the answer a variable ignition?

Please post pictures of the bikes and event if you can

It would seem to be rich. At least at idle. Choke off? What plug number is it? What carb and what are your carb settings, electronic ignition or points and what is the timing set at ? If you post that info (or some of it), people with similar set ups can chime in with what works for them. Did you mix your gas correctly? I'd say for yours 3oz. or 3.5 oz per gallon. Also, buy 5 plugs keep two with you when you ride... Extra things to bring is a whole other topic

Check your spark plug color first. Is it greasy/black(rich), chocolate brown (just right), chalky grey (lean)? What spark plug are you using? Try swapping it out for a new one. Gap it correctly before installing. Is it totally stock? What are your (stock?) carb settings, timing (points or electronic)? Since it is carbureted and the weather is extremely hot and humid that can make your carb settings rich. Especially if the shop tuned your carb when the weather was cooler and dryer. I think a lot of people on here follow the 3, 3.5, or 4 oz.. per gallon of gas depending on the top end/ state of tune. Have you spoke to the shop to get their thoughts? Keep us posted

Ah yes, I see that now. The bracket is 45 euro and the tie rod is 100 from l.t.h.. guess I'm headed to the welder. That's just $80. Thanks for the pictures!

Adam B. Is getting it, I think. At least it's going to a good home.

Any thoughts on the value of a 1958 Ser.1 Li150 Framebreather? No title, frame is solid, legsheild has rust rot holes, gas tank toast, only paint is on aluminum parts the rest is heavy rust brown. Rims toast, engine seized. It's cheaper from a painter's perspective to replace f.fender, legsheild, floorboards than repair. To get it running doing the minimum, it would need : Rebuild crank, new piston, rings, wrist pin, w.p. bearing, rebore, rebuild carb (possibly replace), new crank bearings , seals, gasket, clutch corks, points, condenser, maybe exhaust, brakes (possibly new hub studs), cables. That's not even rebuilding the bottom end, or the possibility of needing a new wiring harness or electronic ignition, handlebar switch, light bulbs. To get it road ready, full engine rebuild, all new hardware, rubber trim, body gaskets, etc... Thoughts? I'll start :$300. Reason: The amount of work/cost puts it out of reach for most of people especially if they have to pay someone. It also makes very little sense for a collector, restorer, builder, flipper because the return after the investment would be so small, if any. It would be a labor of love with no concern of final worth.

Samples of others set ups. What am I missing? As long as I weld the fork leg bracket on and not the current clamp on, I'm good?

I understand your concern of the possibility of the bracket slipping. I have only seen the brackets as pictured, unless a tab is welded on the forks to take the place of the bolt on bracket. Do you have a picture of the new style clamp on? I cant seem to find one. I did a search on google under lambretta anti dive front disc brake, they all look like my current set up with the bolt on fork leg bracket.