Stu aka S.Hanson #17

I have a pm tuning disc brake. "Pepper pot" style (pictured). I am interested in cutting 4 or 5 holes in the rear hub maybe 1 inch round to give a similar look. Nobody does this, so I'm guessing their is a good reason. How unsafe is it? I have only seen this done on an older custom scoot from the west coast built by N. Shafhouser (sp?) from hardpack s.c (pictured). Because it is a custom, it might be for looks and if ridden, swapped out for a solid hub. The only alternative is from Siagon Scooter Center (pictured)

+1 electronic ignition

Here are two of the current set ups I am running. I have also included a picture of a weld on bracket. They are the old style from the early/mid 2000's. S.I.P. still sells them Not sure who has them stateside. I swap out the linkage that comes with them. It usually comes with a dogbone shaped link with fake heim joints on either end. I'm not a fan of the pogo stick affect without anti dive. If you go 50mph + it makes a huge difference. Crisp, stable braking. If your not used to it, it can seem harsh at first. The lower the bracket is on the fork leg, the less harsh it's supposed to be. The bracket on the fork leg should be welded. If not, with just the bolt on bracket, it can in theory be dangerous. It could, under very hard braking move the fork leg bracket into the disc itself. I have never heard of this happening but that is the weak link on the set up. The bgm and casa kits have changed the linkage length so the bolt on bracket if it does shift under braking, hits the fork leg. I'll let someone else discuss the bracket geometry, length etc. The quality of the bgm and casa kits are way ahead of the set ups I run.

Here is what I found so far. I know I have a generic list somewhere and other estimates and job proposal to clients. Also I included ppl codes and hardware sizes. This is information I got from Gene at Scooters originali in NJ. For those not familiar, they are no longer in business. A real loss, as they were an invaluable resource in the early days. It is an information mess. Hopefully you can sort it out so it can be helpful.

I have one somewhere. Give me a day to dig for it.

Ah, it's now crystal clear. They made a deal with the devil... How Harley-Davidson Killed Itself https://youtu.be/EOwxxsPaogY

I agree, it would be great. Since it is like starting from scratch, initially aiming low and keeping it simple might yield more consistent results and greater participation?

Do you have a specific wideband AF sensor you would recommend? Preferably uses a battery so I wouldn't need to splice into the ac power. There are a lot out there and prices are all over the place. I priced out a Koso BA004068 and with the meter, o2 sensor, and two stroke 02 sensor adaptor, that's $300. And what kind of number/reading is considered safe/appropriate in a two stroke? Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks!

I have three set ups I would like to add. I feel carb info is very important and would actually save a lot of questions from people. Not to pick on anyone , but that section is confusing. The charts as they are organized are difficult to search through and info is spread out through that section. Scooterotica has a straightforward list. Even the old smellofdeath site is more helpful list than what we currently have. Any way the info can be consolidated and organized? Or set up in simple and user friendly format such as: https://www.scooterotica.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=14 Cant be that difficult to get people to post info, only info and not have any discussions in the list posting area.

I think you pretty much covered it. For non u.s..domestic mikuni parts i use http://www.allensperformance.co.uk/shop/ Not domestic though...

Your video isnt playing. It sounds like you are running rich on all jets. I would try to find the possible air leak first. I wouldn't worry to hard at this point about over revving yet. Adjusting the idle/air fuel mixture screws will not have an affect on your mixture at 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 or wot. It will only affect the idle (when the slide is closed). It should be adjusted when the motor is warm. The highlighted blue screw raises the slide for more air. By your description you have not adjusted that correctly and have bypassed that adjustment by using the throttle cable tensioner on top of the carb instead. The red highlighted screw will allow more or less fuel into the airflow being sucked through the carb at idle (slide closed). As soon as you twist the throttle the other jets come into play. If I had an idle issue, I'd adjust my idle jet size, possibly the throttle slide(valve) cutaway and work with the air/fuel ratio by turning the screws to get the proper balance. 1/4 throttle adjust needle jet, 1/2 to 3/4 needle height, 3/4 to wot main jet. Yes, the picture is for mikuni but should be similar in concept to dellorto. The racing engine sounds like a familiar problem. Is it smoking excessively? Try spraying starter fluid, it might have a more noticeable effect than carb cleaner. Could be binding/tight throttle cable, head gasket, loose plug, intake manifold, loose carb. Fly side crank seal leak sucks air and can seem like a lean carb issue, drive side sucks oil, then air when you run out of case oil and can at first look like a rich condition. Both cases lead to hard starting.Hoping it's not that. It gets worse the longer it persists. Keep us posted. Have you done a search on the site for the issue ? The racing sounds like air leak Think I am remembering someone had a stutering motor that was an electrical issue and that's why its familiar

It sounds like your cables need adjusted. To adjust my shifter cables, before I thread the cables through the trunions, I put my bike in 1st gear by hand as in the picture. Screw out the fine tuning adjusters on the top of the motor about half way. Thread the cables thru the trunions. Have a friend hold the shift handle on the "1". Using the 3rd hand tool, put tension on the cable that pulls the shift arm forward (inner cable). Next, using the 3rd hand tool, put tension on the cable that pushes the cable (all while in 1st gear) in the opposite direction (outer cable) and tighten. Roll the bike forward and shift to neutral, then to 2and to see how close you are. Then fine tune. New cable will stretch and may need readjusted. I will connect and adjust the clutch after the shifter cables. I am not familiar with dellortos but where in the rev range/throttle opening are you rich? In general, if you are doing a plug chop that would show you half to full throttle mixture. On a mikuni turning the air fuel mixture screw only affects your idle. A motor will feel "tight" after a rebuild and after some miles will feel better. Yes, sounds like you are shifting before you need to imo

Anyone else see this series? Really good. The Jerry Vile episode, so funny

Great if it works.