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Everything posted by Lambrettayeroc

  1. Contact me though FB and I’ll get you some more info. This Conversion uses the dc6v motoplat stator and flywheel and is completely reversible back to 6v DC at any time 1) Replace the rectifier with a three port refulator 2) Ground ONE of the two yellow wires from the stator to the engine cases, the other yellow wire goes to the IN port of the regulator 3) Tape off or remove the red battery wire. It’s not longer used. 4) Run a wire from the out port of the regulator to the junction box at the rear of the frame/floorboard leg (any spot in that junction is ok for this wire other than the greens that are for the ignition only. Plug the green from the stator into the green as this is unchanged.) 5) Don’t forget to run a wire from the ground port of the regulator to the frame (I just out a Y in the wire and connect the first yellow to it to ground it out there) 6)Change all bulbs to 12v and possibly the horn. Job done. The 6v battery, it’s loom, and all that’s related to the battery will no longer be used ansnis not needed. The red battey wires can be taped off. You can get the turn signals to work with the ac if you change the flasher unit to a 12v version, and plug the grey hot feed for the signals into the same junction box at the rear frame leg. Peter Lundgren did a write up on this conversi n and it is in the files section of the Serveterans FB group.
  2. Since it’s an Li S3 headset bottom just replace it. I’ve got a couple here for you andnits much less trouble. Id even do a discount on a swap for your busted one.
  3. There are at least 5 or 6 C I know of in Canada and the US. I got mine two years ago in Cleveland from POC Phil. Barry at SFSC has one for sale in his website too.
  4. Thanks to John Walklate I understand that your engine was made in September 1950. He says the frame should be within a 400 tolerance of the engine number.
  5. Please check your email for my message. Thanks.
  6. Has a c model straight kickstart lever too. I've emailed you. Cheers.
  7. Thats a C model. It has c forks at least.
  8. Mike and Benji. I thought DL as well... for your reasons, and the black cables and floor runnders and panel rubber... BUT... note the case studs and nuts. No bolts. Anomaly?
  9. I’m no longer a paid full member so I’ve edit d my comments. Thanks.
  10. The reason for the confusion you are having is that the name of the flywheel refers to the type of flsnge on the flywheel, and the size of IT's cone... Not the size of the cone on the crankshaft it is suited for.
  11. The flywheel on the left it Li. Thats a large cone and refers to the height of thst flange. Its taller and as a result has a larger cone. The reason is for the narrower taper on the li crank. Right is gp. Short small flange to accomodate the fat tapered gp crank. If you received a small cone flywhel you got a gp flyhweel.
  12. If you were told you have a large cone flywheel it’s probably for Li/sx and the “large cone” refers to the flange in the flywheel being the longer type for the li cranks. The GP is short cone type.
  13. Post a photo of the inside of the flywheel and show us the flange for the taper. For gp it’s a shorter flange than the li in order to accommodate the wider crank taper. I agree it’s confusing at times.
  14. It’s a hardened piece Dave. You need the correct part.
  15. Check the rivets in the clutch spider to see that they are tight, and that the proper shim is in the gearbox.
  16. Some (very few) red SX200 in Italian market too.
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