baronvonmike

The good news is that your bike has a very good spark.

And it was.......?

Nice MIG work.  Looks like you're headed in the right direction.  I'd run it as is, but that's me.

OK, well if the choke engaged slows things down, you most likely have an air leak.  Now you need to find out where.

Looking at the carb, this screw is an air mixture screw because it is in front of the slide.  If it was behind the slide, it would be a fuel mixture screw.  Turning this screw counter clockwise allows more air, clockwise less air.  3.75 turns out for such screws is a bit much.  But, overall, this screw is most-likely not the issue.  I'm just letting you know what the screw is for.  You want a fairly slow tick over at idle, and you want a fairly quick return to idle after full throttle.  You don't want the bike taking forever to return to idle.

I'd move on to tightening the intake.  Easier when the front of the motor is facing down.  You remove the rear shock, push down on the bike, and the front of the engine goes down.  This will allow you to more easily get to the two intake fasteners.  You may have to remove the cylinder shroud to access one of the two fasteners.

If you want to work on these things, you must by the Stickies book.  There's no other option.  ?

I'll go a bit against the grain on this one.  Start simply.  If it is an air leak, start with the intake manifold and boot holding the carb to the cylinder.  Tighten those first.  Go for a ride.

If problem persists, move on to the 4 head bolts.  Then maybe tighten the mag flange, but to do to do this, you need to pull the flywheel.

Does engaging the choke calm your out of control revs?

Yep!  This weekend.  I'm not much of a picture guy, but I'll try.

Our yearly ride is coming up on April 21 & 22.  More at www.oaklandscoot.com

FB event page here: https://www.facebook.com/events/2079958172282031

Thanks,

Mike

Vice.

Went down a semi-rabbit hole after your post.  Grabit's seem interesting, never tried them.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0772RZ4GC/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I2EZ7K9U9RXSNK&colid=367XKJ8F43QSL&psc=0

That's what I would try.

Bill did say that changes were coming in December to help get rid of all the robo-spam.  I'm hoping that's what is happening and that scoot.net gets back online in a better form.

I never just go to SLO for the DMV.  I have family there.

Maybe going a bit far, but here is a link to the CA DMV Registration Procedures Manual.  I've had club mates print out pages from this to "help" the nice DMV employees get their jobs done with ease...

https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/detail/pubs/reg_hdbk_pdf/toc/

Interesting Mike.  I've been going back to the SLO DMV since I moved up to the bay area almost 20 years ago.  They've never said poop.

As stated, CA DMV wait times and availability vary based on location.  Take a weekend trip to San Luis Obispo, I lived there for 16 years.  Hardly ever a wait at that DMV.  Corte Madera DMV, up in Marin, is also a breeze.  You're kind of screwed on the Peninsula.

If you buy from a shop, they should take care of the license/registration issue.  If you buy from a person, hopefully they have the pink slip, and that's very easy to transfer.  Without a pink, you gotta get the bike inspected at the DMV or CHP.

To ride anything over 49cc, you need at least a permit, which allows you to ride on city streets, during the day, by yourself.  You can get a permit by taking the written portion of the test only.  If you want to ride on the freeway, with a passenger, or at night, you need an M1 license.  You either take the Motorcycle Riders Class or take the riding test at the DMV.

When you take the written portion of the motorcycle test, you will also have to take the written automobile test.  With the automobile test, its one side of a sheet and you can miss 4 questions.  With the motorcycle written test, its twice as long and you can only miss 4 questions.

And, if you are moving to CA, you should change your name to 25 Cents, because that's all you'll have left to live off of.  :-)

Mike

As long as you keep the "All Activity" button, then go for it.  

If you need a 12v->6v reducer.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Runtz-12-Volt-to-6-Volt-Voltage-Reducer,2374.html

Perfect.  That's what I thought, but just wanted to make sure.  Appreciate it.

I have a brand new one of these to sell, says its for SX:  https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/crankshaft+mazzucchelli+for_45193000

But then I see this crank for SX/Li: https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/crankshaft+mazzucchelli+for_45191000

Why would one be marked SX, and the other SX/LI?  The two are interchangeable, no?  The only real difference I see is that the "SX" crank webs are not full circle.

Thanks, Mike

8 hours ago, k-dog said:

it was just imported from CA

Haha

Dude, you're in Florida.  'Nuff said.  :-)

14 hours ago, Andrew ITA said:

...if you ever worked on a LD, you know...these rubber parts always end up giving me trouble...took an entire afternoon and ended up with terrible hand cramps.

 

Lots of rubber bits fit easier after they are boiled in water first.  Amazing how much more pliable they become.

11 hours ago, upjettr said:

MB in the UK has a branded piston for the TV175. Don't know about availability, can be scarce sometimes. Though I haven't used him, Sole Power can do the work. LCUSA!

Second for Adam.  Worth any shipping.

22 hours ago, DISPLAY NAME said:

Ok step one. Good news is this case hasn't been cracked open sense it left the factory  in 95. also got that Indian spare wind brake on there in case I flat. 

Haha, that's one use for a practice amp!

'59 S1.  My hope is to get started doing something on it.  Current plan is possibly a Gori 200cc top end.  And by the end of winter, hopefully I won't need baby wipes either...