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Everything posted by baronvonmike

  1. I will be installing a Rally glovebox this some time this year. I figured I'd have to drill holes that were covered by the horncast and fender. Nice to know that's how its actually done.
  2. imgur.com is my current favorite picture hosting site. No account required.
  3. Forgot to add that I put the electronic ignition on in 1999. No issues. And I checked my build log, the 190 has been on for two years. I guess its specifically the Servetta crank you are worried about?
  4. I run a Deanspeed 190, electronic ignition, and 24mm BGM PWK on the stock 1962 Li 150 crank. Totally fine after one year of running.
  5. Click on this link. https://www.flickr.com/photos/nickyoungphoto/sets/72157635403220808 That there is a photo stream, or photo album, or pretty pictures, or whatever you wanna call it.
  6. Could you post a pic of the brake shoe surfaces where they were at rest on the cam?
  7. Well, after writing all that I then looked at your photo stream. You've gone to electronic ignition. Forget all I said about points, coil, condenser. Pull the flywheel, check the key way, check your timing. It also seems you've done some restoration, so the bike isn't a complete unknown to you.
  8. That's a better update. Basically the bike is a complete unknown to you, and you made some hopeful assumptions about getting to enjoy it quickly. We've all done it. Without a complete tear down and rebuild you are left with more hopeful assumptions. That's ok, really. Without all the time and money in the world, its what most of us are left with. At this point I'd suggest looking at your ignition. This is all in the Sticky's book. Focus on this system first before thinking about top ends or carbs. What to check first is up to you. It could just be your points. It could be your condenser. It could be your coil. It could be that your flywheel isn't tightened down enough. Maybe you cracked the insulator when installing the spark plug and now the spark isn't always jumping the gap. It could be that your flywheel needs to be remagnitized (very unlikely IMHO). See how this all goes? There are many more ignition suggestions many on this board can come up with, that was just a small subset. Without actually being there in person anyone trying to offer you help is left with an attack vector they think is best, which could be completely incorrect. Start with your points, which you can do without removing the flywheel. You will need a flathead screwdriver and I'd also buy a points file. Once that is sorted, and the bike possibly does not run, then on to the next thing to check, etc. Good luck, Mike
  9. It seems that the more questions are asked, the more new things you are telling the board. You say you only put on a new top end, but it also seems like you've never ridden the bike before. Is it new to you? Was the flywheel removed during your top end swap? You say you can see spark, but you also say you could not even get it to run with the no-carb-and-starter-fluid test. Then you mention the backfire. Sounds to me like you sheared your woodruff key or the timing is way off.
  10. Just throwing another thought out there that has not been stated. You could just have a too rich pilot jet or pilot jet mixture. Trying to explode drops of fuel instead of atomized fuel will create stuttering which shakes the whole bike like crazy.
  11. Firefox on Linux. As long as I know its not a site restriction. I can try Chrome. I'll let you know.
  12. Wow. Just, wow. Talk about depressing. I'm glad to see that a few of you are able to chin-up, hop in a car and go.
  13. One of these? http://www.scomadi.co.uk/ Or these? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2014-Lambretta-LN-125-Scooter-in-All-Colours-inc-New-Red-UNIQUE-LTD-EDITIONS-/111005195413
  14. Um, yeah, especially when dealing with brass and aluminium .
  15. Internet debugging is almost impossible, but if you shoot carb cleaner or starting fluid in there, even without the carb, and you have spark, then it should fire at some point. If its not firing, then you need to be absolutely sure you have spark. Remove the spark plug. With the spark plug connected to the coil, somehow make sure the bottom of the spark plug (any of the metal below the white insulator) is touching the engine case or any metal on your bike that's grounded. Kick the bike over, do you see a nice white spark? If you need to hold the plug by hand to get it grounded, don't. You'll most likely get a nice shock. If you must, use something like masking tape to hold the bottom of the plug against ground. Like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mUOmsGiirTU Oh, who put the new top end and piston on? Did you? Are you sure the arrow on top of the piston is pointing at the exhaust port? Mike
  16. If you can understand F-Stops, depth of field, and exposure times, then this scooter stuff should be cake. Anyway, a carb mixes air and fuel into a mist. The "wetness" of the mist is controlled by brass tubes with holes in them, called jets. By changing the "size" of the jets you alter how "wet" the mist is. Jets control the wetness of the mist at start, idle, and varying throttle positions. The only way to change the jets is to remove the float bowl, which is the whole bottom 1/2 of the carb. Its a float bowl, like in your toilet. Works exactly the same way. Fuel in the float bowl travels through the jets and gets mixed with air passing through the carb and becomes a mist. Working with carbs is a smelly, time taking PITA. But its part of what must be done. Oh, and forget the carb for now. Take it completely off. Now get some carb cleaner or starting fluid and shoot it into the intake manifold for about 1 to 2 seconds. Now make sure your ignition is turned on and kick it over one to many times. If your electrical is working it will run for a second or two and then stop. At least you know your electrical is working and then you can focus on the carb.
  17. I had the exact same problem your video shows, and it was the "burrs" mentioned above or the "grooves" I show in my diagram. You can't tell till you pull the hub. Do that and you'll know what the issue is in a couple seconds.
  18. The cam does not sit flat against each shoe, it sits at an angle. Over time, grooves will develop and they will keep the cam from returning to its resting position. Here's a pic of what I'm talking about. Arrows show where the grooves develop. This has happened to me. A quick (not the best) fix is to swap the shoes. Mike
  19. What? You guys got a problem with Dr. Theopolis?
  20. Why? Are you a big fan of his book "Walden"?
  21. The two times I've had the flywheel fins shortened, I just walked in to a local machinist and showed him what I wanted done. This is not a difficult job. "I need these fins shortened this amount." "OK, come back in an hour."
  22. Piece of thick-ish rope down the spark plug hole has always worked fine. I know, I know, its supposed to be bad to do, but its worked for me for over 20 years.
  23. Strange request, but could you folks with the ultrasonic parts cleaners post some pics of what you have? Thanks
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