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baronvonmike

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Everything posted by baronvonmike

  1. Only ever used the grey stuff and its never had an issue.
  2. Best fuel line ever. https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-12-0052-Tygon-Premium/dp/B000WOHJIK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1475774100&sr=8-4&keywords=motion+pro+fuel+line
  3. I know the builder. Very well done scoot. Trophy winner. Built 15-20 years ago. Been through a few hands since. The original build was stock, not the cut-floorboard disaster it is now. Who does this to an S2-TV175?
  4. You need to append ".mp4" to that video file, else it won't decode for me. Nice work.
  5. I'm really sorry to hear this happened, Adam. But glad you are OK! I've been wanting to ask about this topic for about a year. Both Li's in my stable have stock front drums. Both have slop around the locating pin. I've been worried that the pin "slapping" against the U would maybe cause fatigue. But, I've never had a Lammy that didn't have slop around the locating pin, so maybe its OK or within spec? I doubt it. This topic is not addressed in the Stickies manual. If you are to try making bushings, I can get you some measurements on the slop of my drums. I'd easily buy two from you. Mike
  6. I've driven in Italy many times. Unless rules have changed, you really don't need anything but your US drivers license. The first time I went to Italy I paid for an "International Drivers License". No one ever asked for it. Many times after that I just went over and drove. People only ever asked for my US I.D. and/or passport. It is Italy after all.
  7. See page 80 of the Scooter Center Koln Lambretta Catalog for a nice gear ratio chart. http://issuu.com/scooter-center.com/docs/sck-lambretta-2007_e/81?e=0/6769140 Mike
  8. You've figured it out, but yes. I run a 16/46, I tried the "hell this 1962 80 link chain must be stretched by now" idea, but to no avail. You have to go 81 link. My tensioner is "up" and its fine.
  9. Inspired by The MagnaVolt from Robocop, I'm sure.
  10. Wow, thanks! Serendipity I guess. I got this motor 12 years ago and its just sat in my garage. I just purchased a 1959 S1 without a motor and viola, the motor I've had for so long is also a 1959. My apologies to Giuseppe.
  11. Thanks, Will get photos when I can. This engine was in someones back yard, no top end, no chain case cover. Got it for free. It actually turns.
  12. It also did not come with a chain case cover, so I can't easily tell if its S1/S2.
  13. Giuseppe was either hung over or needed to get home. Base on my research, this motor should not exist. The six number serial (625510) points to a '62 Li 150, but that's not what the stamp says... and I got it without a top end, so I can't check the bore size. Serials: http://www.lambretta.co.uk/models.html Any thoughts? Thanks, Mike
  14. For sure. I use pliers to tighten that nub on there. Hmm... I wonder if some blue (red?) locktite on the very top few threads would be a good idea.
  15. They are not talking about how the spark plug wire attaches to the cap. Your new cap will also screw into the spark plug wire. They are talking about how the cap attaches to the plug. You want the kind of cap that requires a nub to be screwed on to the plug. Plugs come with the nub on them already.
  16. Whoops, didn't realize that link was broken. Here's the fixed link: http://www.motorcycleproject.com/text/plugwiretech.html Here's the quote from that article: "The Effect of Electrical Backlash on Ignition Components Second, on some offroad vehicles, resistive secondary components of a slightly different specification are present to reduce the electrical backlash that spark creates in the coil’s primary winding. This unwanted electrical feedback is harmful to the parts that drive the ignition system, particularly the ignition control modules (CDI boxes, igniters). Motocross bikes use resistive secondaries to protect the CDI boxes." Generally, don't use the automotive (non-solid core or "suppressor") wire. I've used that stuff in the past, but its not the best. You want solid core wire and put the resistor in the plug cap. My source for solid core wire: https://www.brillman.com/ None of this applies to points bikes. You don't want any resistance. Use solid core wire, a non-resistive plug cap, and non-resistive spark plug for best results.
  17. This has come up before . http://www.lambrettaclubusa.net/topic/1397-spark-plug-caps-resistor-or-non-resistor/ "Did some googling and came up with the following. I've always kind of had an understanding, but I think I get it a bit more now. Long read, but good info here: http://www.motorcycl...ugwiretech.html Upjettr gave the Cliff Notes version, but the above explains the why. If you run a CDI ignition, you should probably have some kind of resistor from the coil to the spark plug. This helps lengthen the life of the CDI. There are 3 ways to add a resistor, usually 5KOhms per item: 1. Silicone plug wire (15 Kohms per meter) 2. Resistor cap 3, Resistor plug Any one of these components will add the 5KOhm resistance needed. On a scooter you are looking at about 1/3 of meter of silicone wire, so 5KOhms. If you add more than one of the 3 items, you are adding 5KOhms at a time. For example, if you run a resistor cap and a resistor plug, you are up to 10KOhms. Train Driver obviously needs this much resistance so that his fancy speedo works. Copper core wires offer no resistance. How to check your resistance: http://www.powerdyna.../resistance.htm " Mike
  18. Getting close to done. For now.... Been 10 years getting to this point. I finally rode it out for a few minutes. As I stated above, the latest reg on this thing says 1972. Someday I'll get to getting a real TV1 seat and some other bits, but good enough for now. No plans on "restoring" it. Heck, seems as if most restored bikes are all a different color of white anyway. I've seen a few TV1's in this blue. I have a hunch that they were going to be 1960 Olympic bikes, but the Series II came along and Innocenti decided to push their latest model instead. These TV1's were shipped to America where no one knew the difference. That's my guess, at least. Mike
  19. Been using TR-3 glaze for over 20 years. If you have Amazon Prime, you can get it to your door for under $12. May have to add Wizards to my set of tools.
  20. Thanks! Weird, I went to Scootopia.com and checked before asking. Hmm..... I can't get the base of the rubber boot to look that clean on install. The boot's ID is too big. I'll post a pic when I can.
  21. Here's how I've used Evapo-Rust. Love the stuff.
  22. More of these kinds of posts! Thanks for sharing.
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