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Everything posted by Anthony-ADX

  1. I did a 40 mile ride, with no problems before I posted this trick. Do you think the stator will heat up? If there’s something I should check, let me know. Thanks.
  2. Scuffed up both wires and solder it together.
  3. Dim headlights! Its time to roll the dice and try something. My J50 Deluxe headlight have always been poor. Getting the scooter home before dark, Is a must! There are several ways to fix dim headlights. One common method is to, re-magnetize the flywheel, but some motors run excellent with dim lights. Something else maybe going on with the electrical system. When I think about it. All old motors have simple lighting systems. Wire rapped around metal, passing by a magnet. That makes electric energy. More wire, more energy. Simple! (I hope. haha ) Looking at Lambrettra’s 1960s two coil stator plate. The lighting coil, seems to have less wire than 1970s coils. On some old Ves-pa’s, the coils have more wire, and popped the 6 volt bulbs easy. This could be the reason for some Lambretta coils having less wire at the time? I remove the lighting coil and simply spliced in more wire. I added about 9 loops, of extra wire. (I got the extra wire from an old coil in my junk pile ) I didn’t do any calculation, I just filled in the extra space. I didn’t use a vote meter either. If the added voltage pop’s the 6 volt bulb. Its more than 6 volt! Simple logic. haha! Fire-up the motor and test. It worked!!! 9 extra loops of wire made the lights 40% brighter and didn’t pop the 6 volt bulb. I also added a 12 volt regulator to the J’s lighting system, because I plan on adding more loops of wire, to get the coils output up to 12 volt. (Note: I will be using a volt meter this time.) This trick should work for LD’s as well. Some LD’s have the same type of two coil stator plate with extra space to add more wire. Anthony Armstrong J headlights trick.
  4. All of my illustrations are made in CorelDraw/vector based, then painted in Photoshop. The first drawing is black out lines only. Here’s a link to all of my illustrations: http://www.getbent-sc.com/asd/asd_scooter_designs.htm
  5. I agree, but the average hardware store (In Texas) mostly stock the stander stuff. If you want to repair it in a day. You have no options. I was thing the brass sleeve would stop the damage from happening again. That’s the reason I didn’t get the Tutto pivot pin set.
  6. Clutch Lever Repair - Series 1& 2 After the Frozen Finger rally, I could feel my clutch lever pivot sink into the handlebars housing. The clutch lever had been sinking for some time, but not as deep. After the 160 mile scooter ride, it felt like the lever had broken inside the handlebars housing. Not good! Long story short. I inspected other old clutch levers. Then got an original Series 1 lever from club member Wrekkah. It had the same damaged hole. The presser between the steel bolt and the aluminum lever, was causing the aluminum to melt/mush over time. You can see the problem by this worn edge. The top lever has no damage and the hole is circular. I wanted to use my original lever. Original parts always fit and look better! I have built a lot of motors over the years. Race motors to scooter motors. A common thing you see in every type of motor, and frame is a brass bushing, when steel comes in contact with aluminum. The easy thing to do, is just buy a new lever from a scooter shop. But that original part thing comes into play, I talked about. The parts to repair the lever, can be found at the local hardware store. Brass tubing: 5/16 x .014 (7.94mm) Drill bit: 5/16 The best way to drill out the larger hole, is with a drill press and secure the lever with a clamp. The damage space left, needs to be filled in. I used pieces of metal and epoxy. Cut off the extra material. Cleanup, and install. Anthony Armstrong 2015 Series 1and 2 Clutch Lever Fix. AnthonyScooterWork.com GetBent-sc.com
  7. Cool, that’s fine with me. I just wanted the drawing to show-up on my club page. Thanks.
  8. New scooter illustration for my ASD scooter collection. Enjoy.
  9. They bend over time. I pulled shaft several times to replace the oil seal on Jet200’s. The shaft was hard to remove and hard to put back in. The second time this happen, I double checked the shaft, and couldn’t see anything wrong, until I put, part of the shaft on a flat table and rolled it over. It was bent. In my photo. I made the bend, so you could see it. because you cant see it otherwise.
  10. I’m not telling you are anyone what to do. I only show what happens and the way I fixed it.
  11. I love the B card design. It would be great if the old, club USA globe was added somewhere on the card.
  12. Okay guys. Here we go! Here’s the flaw with modifying the side case, like this. I did work on a Lambretta motor for a customer, that was having problems with the kickstart. It was slipping and locking up? At first, I thought the kickstart shaft was made too short. I ordered a new kickstart shaft, just to find out. It was the same size. I looked at the side case closer, and found that someone skimmed down the side case area in red, and yellow lines. That caused a snowball effect on the entire kickstart system. Before I fixed the problem. The guy had ruined the first gear, and kickstart gear piston. I had to grind down the bolts and remove the lock washers because, part of the kickstart shaft was locking up on the bolts. After that, I had to make the hole longer on the gear piston housing. So the kickstart gear piston could reach the kick gear parts of the first gear, on the drive side. Then I had to modify the gear pistons pin guide. The gear piston guide in my demo, is an older part. I drew the missing part in white, and the part I modify in red. I have worked on several scooters with bent kickstart shaft. In pictures 4 I made the bend severe, so you could see what I’m talking about. When you skim down the side case, you will only make the bend happen faster, and brake easier. Innocenti may have done a modification improvement. But we, the mechanics in the field have to test them, and fix any problems with the way people carry them out. You said something about, simply replace the chain case cover. I like my Lambretta’s to be all original, down to the original case cover, if possible. I do long distance scooter rides on my old Series 2, and know some parts have to be modified, are replaced sometimes.
  13. Some of your first comments. Made me think, you were drilling a bigger hole in the side case. Your picture cleared that up. Thanks That seems to be good fix. But it has a few flaws. The flaw has everything to do with the closeness of the kickstart to the drive side case. That a story for another day. For now I will stick to modify the part. This has worked for me, for over 20 years. No break! Note: The only reason I showed this modification? I had done it a lot, and never had one break! Your comment: (The shafts all crack on that exact spot that you have marked. (RED ARROW)) That burns me up. Reason? I have never seen a kickstart shaft break in that exact spot marked in red. Its time to move on. I will stand by the statement. Never modify your original cases! Hmmmmmmmmm I guess, if you use that tool and carve the case to deep. You can always shim it backup, like in India.
  14. We are talking about two different problem. The grinding / modification I do. Is for one problem only. The edge, that the arrow is pointing at. Its smashes / rubs the top clutch plate. It’s a major problem on most s1 s2 and s3. I'm not thinning the shafts. And I’m not talking about a thick shaft. But I do know about the problem you’re talking about. The beefy / thick part I’m talking about has the black arrow pointing at the rubbing problem. That one little spot on the kickstart shaft can be a big problem!
  15. I have a problem with modify the original case. If you drill out the case for an Indian part. Then find the original Italian part. You can never go back. Plus! Most Indian Parts Are Never Stander and they are made like shit! haft the time. Modify an aftermarket parts, is always better. I would never drill out a vintage Italian case, for a cheap Indian part. This is one of those scooter problems where you are, dammed if you do and dammed if you don’t.
  16. Kickstart shaft, rub marks. The kickstart shaft, rubbing the clutch plate is a common problem. Reasons I found for this problem: a. Some original side case gaskets were designed thicker. b. The kickstart shaft washer, maybe damaged are missing, causing the shaft to move deeper into the side case. c. Aftermarket kickstart shafts: Back in the day, one of the manufacture made a batch of kickstart shaft that broke easy. After that I started to see a beefy kickstart shaft. Some of these shafts would lockup the motor. Here’s the steps I take when I see marks on the kickstart shaft: 1. Check to see if the kickstart shaft washer is installed correctly. If you see a gap at this point. That’s a problem. What happens is, the pedal spring tries to push out the kickstart shaft, causing a gap. 2. There should be a circlip and washer here. 3. If the circlip and washer don’t close the gap in picture 1, you may need to add additional washers here. After the steps above are taken. Use a marker, and paint the top clutch plate. Put the gasket and side case on with a few nuts and tighten them down. Take out the spark plug. Then, kick the motor over several times. If it rubs, it will show up on the black clutch plate, and kickstart shaft. Here’s the number one problem, most of the time. A poor designed kickstart shaft: 4. If you replace your kickstart shaft with an aftermarket shaft. It will most likely rub, unless you modify it. This is the original kickstart shaft from a 1980s Jet200 with the rub marks. Some, original kickstart shaft were made bad also. Here’s an example of a kickstart shaft I modified, using a basic grinder. This will fix the problem and shouldn’t weaken the shaft, if done correctly. Steps to take when grinding the kickstart shaft: g1. This area on the shaft, is all you need to modify. g3. This side view shows the depth to grind. As you can see. You don’t touch the core (strength) part of the kickstart shaft. g4. You can grind down to the very edge, shown in blue. g5. Never grind down to the main shaft rod! I hope this tutorial helps. Because I keep coming across, poorly made kickstart shafts, that need to be modify. AnthonyADX - 2015 Kickstart shaft fix. AnthonyScooterWork.com GetBent-sc.com
  17. You don’t remember dude. I did tell you. I told you a few guys were doing a ride in Fort Worth are Roanoke. You said where the hell is that. After that, I think I forward you the email I got from the guys putting it on.
  18. Frozen Finger Rally 2014 Put on by Ron and Denver from ACE scooter club Dallas, Texas. The frozen finger is cold, and sometimes in extremely bad weather. Hence, Frozen Finger. This year the weather delivered. The Frozen Finger was in far Fort Worth, Texas / Roanoke. I was going to trailer my Series 2 Lambretta to the rally like the other guys. My trailer was hooked up, ready to go. I looked at the weather. It seemed to be clearing up at the time. I thought, so I jumped on the Lambretta and road off. 5 miles down the road, on the 50 mile trip, it started drizzling. It didn’t get any better. It just got colder and colder. No turning back now. For the most part the Frozen Finger rally was fun, and I discovered a cool road on the way that was fun to ride. The road was long, low traffic, with slow speeds. Dove Rd in Grapevine, Texas. https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?mid=zqqroWTsino0.kJrjaw20pxMQ When I made it to Tim‘s house in Roanoke, TX. Rob Roden was there on his Lambretta Jet200 Performer, Flying the Lambretta clubs banner. Very cool. Rob Roden’s good friend John Council sold-out for the weekend and road a V3$p@. John Council has some of the best Lambretta’s in Dallas and he road a V3$p@. Sometimes, John just falls off the wagon, haha! After the rally, a few guys offered me a trailer ride back to Dallas. Me, trying to be a big baller, said No way, I ride a Lambretta! Sometime being a big baller is not a good idea. haha It got a lot colder, and rained a little on the way back. When I made it to the Dubliner in Dallas, for my after rally drink. My hands were shaking so bad I couldn’t hold it. An Irish whiskey fixed that problem right up. And I made it home around 9:00pm. The entire scooter ride was about 160 miles. Really lucky! I was having problems with the clutch lever at the rally. I make it home, and find I had a busted cable. Thank god I made it home, because my hand don’t work when I’m really cold, haha!
  19. Thank you for the info guys. My question was answered, Carbon fiber scooter parts are lighter. Note: I know Carbon fiber is lighter, but over the years, I came across scooters with Carbon fiber looking parts that are heavy as shit. At the time, I think some scooter company's were saling a Carbon fiber look? PS: Is PM Tuning the only company with genuine Carbon fiber parts.
  20. Thanks. I came across PM Tuning, doing a Google search. What ali rims, did you come across? I would like to check it out. The biggest problem I had over the years with stock rims were, high-speed shaking start around 80 mph. I just keep pushing, not a good idea. haha
  21. Yes! That will work. But. Back in the day, I did a few key weight reduction thinking to my street drag car. And dropped Two Second in a quarter mile. Dropping Two second, is a big change. Now, what Lambretta guy posted pictures of the Carbon fiber parts.
  22. I need to drop weight on a race bike project I’m working on. I already have the basic weight reducing tricks worked out. Are the Carbon fiber parts out there made correct and lightweight or, just for looks?
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