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Everything posted by vegansydney

  1. I was referring to gap between shift housing and headset. It looks too wide, like it's missing the collared washer (#19962017), or the rod hasn't been shimmed correctly in the headset, but as mentioned, could be a trick of the light, or that you've not completely finished building the headset. Good luck with the build!
  2. Fine tip oil-based paint pens. I've heard of others using crayon, and just wiping the excess off (easier on polished gear shift housings than painted/LI125 ones). Damon, it looks like you have some serious play in that headset. Are you missing the collared washer (#19962017), is the headset rod not shimmed correctly, or is it just a trick of the light?
  3. The general consensus from everything I've read is that 12.5:1 is the ideal for WOT/main jet on a 2 stroke (FYI the stoichiometric ratio for a non-2 stroke gasoline engine is 14.7:1). Probe should be approximately 300-400mm from the exhaust port, or in the 'belly' of the pipe if using an expansion. The probe is (a massive) M18 and needs to be mounted upright (~90°), so I remove the RHS rear footboard while dialing it in. If you want to go down a rabbit hole there is some good threads on the GSF and a bunch of peer-reviewed scientific papers floating around cyberspace.
  4. My experience with the Westac EGT gauges is they are good quality, U.S. made, and don't require a power source beyond the K probe. Westach also will will make custom configurations, metric dials and AFR gauges (though I prefer digital for AFR gauges). I've also had experience with Koso EGTs and while not as quality product as the Westach, and require a power source, the benefit is they're easier to read at glance (helpful at WOT), and can be programed to flash a warning light at designated temperatures. My 2 cents, set up carb with a wideband AFR, remove and install EGT programed/marked with a redline of ~650°C (~1200°F for those still using archaic forms of measurement). I find that the top of a legshield spare is reasonable location to mount either a AFR or EGT gauge. Good luck!
  5. Echoing what Pete said, HUGE THANKS to everyone that organized the rally. It was worth the 5,916 km / 3,676 mile round trip from New York just to ride those incredible roads. Also super happy that the raffle bike is coming back to New York.
  6. Haha! That would have been ideal. Unfortunately this a new development, and space has only just become available.
  7. Leaving NYC a few days before the Jamboree and have room in van for an extra Lambretta and/or a person. Can haul scooter, parts, or person or all 3, either all the way, or part of it. One way only. Hit me up offline for details.
  8. By that you mean, polishing it and removing the SIL kickstart, right?
  9. It’s an Innocenti 150dl. Grey plastic tool box means it’s early production and no battery tray means it’s a dl, not GP. Looks to be red in color.
  10. Strange there is no replies to this. It appears the kickstart shaft is bent. It’s not a common fault (unlike snapping), and I’ve only seen it happen once before.
  11. I’ve successfully had a ring peg relocated before for an early TS185 piston, but none here in the US. However, I do have recommendations for 2 motorcycle engineers that should be able to do the job. Message me for info.
  12. Imports of classic vehicles are straightforward (if you have proof of ownership paperwork). It’s two forms. I’ve imported several Lambrettas, although none from India, and can share details if you message me directly.
  13. The hex heads of the fork link bolts (and all exposed parts of dogleg bolts/washers/nuts) were painted by factory on all Innocenti S1-GP/dl machines.
  14. What's the date of manufacture stamped on the tire?
  15. What’s the deadline? I have a tech article that I could draft, but it’s dependent on deadline.
  16. If you purchase a replacement TS185 piston, make sure it’s the later ‘ER’ type (such as 12110-29900) unless you like relocating piston ring pegs (I speak from experience). Its been noted above, and too late now, but my preferred method for this conversion is to use either an RD400 (115mm) or a TV175 (116mm) con-rod as it eliminates the need to machine the barrel, not to mention the benefits of a longer con-rod.
  17. My two favorite methods are using the inoclinometer on my phone with a Jockey's mount, and a dial gauge. MB sell a handy bracket for mounting the gauge.
  18. Agreed! Did you read the most recent Clubman dyno test series in Scootering, Mike? It was over several issues early-mid last year and it dyno tested approximately 15 Clubmans. The conclusion was:
  19. I'm a huge fan of the Tutto Lambretta stock exhausts and have them fitted to 2 different engines. IMHO they're the next best thing to a NOS exhaust, and many people would be hard pressed to tell the difference. Casa make some decent parts, but standard exhausts are not one of them. The last Casa exhaust I purchased was so dire I personally returned it to Vittorio for a refund. I'll try to dig up some photos I took of a Casa side-by-side with a Tutto, the difference in quality is shocking, particularly given that the retail price between the two is comparable. I've not yet seen the Scootopia exhausts yet, but I've had a 'proper anorak' friend visiting from London this week, who occasionally road tests pre-production parts for Scootopia, and he said they were decent. Speaking of Scootopia, back when they were a Casa main agent ever notice they never stocked the Casa exhausts, but the Tutto ones? To me this speaks volumes. If you purchase parts from Tutto, I find its best to order direct via phone (speak to Cinza). Alternatively, you can purchase online from STF. Regarding the 'mushroom baffle' this changed throughout production. For example, the inlet holes in 'mushroom' were bigger on the TV/2 exhaust than the LI/2 exhaust and obviously it was abandoned for late SX and dl/GP. Personally, if it was my build, I'd purchase a Tutto S3 exhaust, dry build, and then follow recommendations in the '60s Performance and Tuning Conversion Manual and drill the out the mushroom with a 13mm bit, before cleaning and sending off to be ceramic coated with Cerakote. In the past I've also had success removing tailpipes and re-welding them on, but given the Scootopia S3 'clover' ones are built to late SX/dl/GP spec there is no need to do anymore.
  20. Did Hensley ever have any Lambretta deck graphics? I only remember V3$p@ ones, such as the Black Label P-series photo. Maybe he's finally come around to his senses. Ha!
  21. Thanks! Good to know I have multiple options.
  22. Reprofile head for an RD350 piston. Looking for someone who has done Lambretta heads before and has the appropriate jig. Thanks in advance for any recommendations!
  23. I’ve never had that problem with Newfren pads and would personally recommend them over most other pads currently available. Just make sure you file down the oversized backing discs. If you can find them, my first preference would NOS Innocenti/OEM pads. I recently fitted some to a front end overhaul and the difference was immediately noticeable.
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