vegansydney

What silver? Special? Late SX/early-mid GP/dl, Luna? Late GP/dl? They're all significantly different. For Luna/late SX/early-mid GP/dl then Toyota silver sky metallic 1D6 with a semi-gloss clear coat is pretty close, although a little too metallic. For something just vaguely close to Luna/late SX/early-mid GP/dl then Porsche M7Z 'GT sports silver'.

With Dell'Orto or repro floats in SH1 and SH2s I've found that it it can either be ethanol induced swelling which causes the float to catch the edge of the bowl, or poor manufacturing tolerances, which causes the float to catch on the pin. Based on my own experience, the repro 'ethanol safe' floats are more likely to hang up on the float pin. This is hard to diagnose because it happens intermittently and testing the float swing and fuel shut off with your fingers is not ideal. Thankfully, running a drill bit through the float pin hole will cure it. Good luck.. and don't forget to check your choke too. Jealous of anyone that has a Lambretta in that part of Vermont---or any vintage 2 stroke really. The roads and scenery are fantastic. One vote for LJ 2024 in Vermont (or Maine).

No rush, and thanks!

Thanks, Mike! I didn't even realize that Sudco did retail. For some reason I always thought they were wholesale only. Unfortunately no 454 Series Q2, Q3 or Q4 listed in that price list, only P8, Q0 (which comes stock in factory TM24s) and Q8. Great to know they sell retail, though. That's going to make my life much easier ...and my wallet much lighter

I've been using an AEM Digital wideband UEGO 30-4110 and can't fault it. They are ~$150 + shipping. The most crucial part is making sure whatever you buy has the superior 4.9 LSU sensor. All of my scooters stateside are 'full DC', so I've just spliced it into my loom temporarily, but when I've lent it to friends with AC set ups they've just mounted a battery in a legshield spare wheel cover and run it off that. Don't want to derail this thread anymore, but if you're interested there is a wealth of info online about running these on 2 strokes, and if you really want to go down a very deep rabbit hole then this 60+ page thread from 2012 is what got me interested (a tabloid scooterboy site did an English-language summary here). Good luck and PM or email me if you have specific questions.

Ha! Welcome to the fun world of 2 stroke jetting. There are countless resources online, but before you start I'd recommend you; check engine for air leaks (if you haven't already) check fuel flow through tap and carb. Through the tap it should be flowing ≥400ml a minute (approx one US pint for those using still archaic forms of measurement). set float height (Mikuni TM24 = 21mm, Keihin PWK28 = 19mm, for other carbs, such as Dell'Orto PHBL or PHBH, check the factory manual) and float needle is working. check choke is functioning correctly. Here's a few resources to keep you busy in quarantine and help get you started: Engine air leak test (video). Setting float height on PWK28 (also video) Setting idle/pilot circuit on a Dell'Orto PH* carb (video). Setting idle/pilot circuit on a Keihin PWK (also relevant for other 2 stroke carbs with an air screw). Keihin PWK jetting guide. Basic 2 stroke jetting guide. Plug chops - AF Ratio (short video). Lambretta jetting database My personal preference for kitted scooters, in addition to the above, is a wideband AF sensor to find the optimal stoichiometric AF ratio on every circuit. IMHO it takes the guess work out of jetting. Good luck!

Thanks, Stu! Allen's is great, especially since they generally have larger TM24 slides than stock (3.5, 4.0). Unfortunately they are low on 454 series atomizers at the moment. I'll just order them from Topham. For domestic TM24 supplies Treatland is also worth checking out too.

Where are people buying Mikuni needle jets / atomizers from? I'm looking for a domestic source for 454 series (784-210050) larger than Q0 and smaller than Q8. In the past, I've used Niche Cycles but they're out of stock of Q2 and Q4. I've also looked at Jets'R'Us and they don't stock them. I've purchased them from Topham before, but would prefer a domestic source before ordering international. Any recommendations for places that stock entire, or a large range, of the 454 series welcome. Thanks in advance!

Nice TV! The pre-mod TV/3 was the pinnacle of Lambretta design IMHO. Welcome to the club.

I always love reading these build threads - whether they're from a first time builder or a seasoned professional. Keep the updates coming! In regards to your question about throttle cable lengths, I've found that most aftermarket carburetors require a longer throttle cable than stock. I say most, as a TM24 with a Dell'Orto 90 degree elbow threaded into the top will work with a standard cable, but I'm yet to find any others. A number of dealers carry longer cables, or you can make them yourself. Also a fan of Belmetric. Simple to use (can search by DIN number) and fast delivery. Very welcome in country that insists on using antiquated forms of measurement :)

This one is going to be hard to swindle, but haven't missed one yet, so will be there.

This has been an ongoing project since early 2015. If you you're interested in the development there's a 30+ page thread on the GSF.

I was referring to gap between shift housing and headset. It looks too wide, like it's missing the collared washer (#19962017), or the rod hasn't been shimmed correctly in the headset, but as mentioned, could be a trick of the light, or that you've not completely finished building the headset. Good luck with the build!

Fine tip oil-based paint pens. I've heard of others using crayon, and just wiping the excess off (easier on polished gear shift housings than painted/LI125 ones). Damon, it looks like you have some serious play in that headset. Are you missing the collared washer (#19962017), is the headset rod not shimmed correctly, or is it just a trick of the light?

The general consensus from everything I've read is that 12.5:1 is the ideal for WOT/main jet on a 2 stroke (FYI the stoichiometric ratio for a non-2 stroke gasoline engine is 14.7:1). Probe should be approximately 300-400mm from the exhaust port, or in the 'belly' of the pipe if using an expansion. The probe is (a massive) M18 and needs to be mounted upright (~90°), so I remove the RHS rear footboard while dialing it in. If you want to go down a rabbit hole there is some good threads on the GSF and a bunch of peer-reviewed scientific papers floating around cyberspace.