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GP Kevo

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GP Kevo last won the day on June 14 2016

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About GP Kevo

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  • Currently Owned Lambrettas
    1969 GP200 22/2 frame, original engine, TS1 240 (rebuild this winter :) )

    1969 GP150 22/0 frame, street racer, TS1 Annihilator

    and the ones that got away: :(

    1966 Li 150 Special
    1966 Li 150 Silver Special
    1964 TV200
    1983 S.I.L. GP150 (original USA import)bought used for a street racer project, but later sold as parts (frame and panels and crankcase)
    1998 S.I.L. GP200 (original Canadian import) bought new and sold used - the only new vehicle I have ever bought

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  1. As for the SS225 kit, I'm also waiting for more info. No need to dump my TS1's just yet.
  2. Personally, I'm not buying anything for a while. I've got two TS1 motors to build yet and a change in living to do, but after that, after the dust settles and prices are set, I may be in the market for something bigger, more powerful for my Lambretta. The CASA case and any others that have these extra large base gasket areas and flexibility as to cylinder stud location, would be perfect for building a bike barrell conversion. Think of it, anything, almost, would be possible without the need to heavily modify an existing original case. Machine the case to match whatever cylinder you want to use. At worst, a case reed conversion might be neccessary. Or you could just buy a BSG barrel and use that.
  3. That's not really true, at least for the European market. With speed limits much higher than in the USA, and longer distances to travel, not to mention all the track and drag racing that's done here, a market does exist for big cc Lambretta engines. I'd like something more powerful than my TS1 even for use in America, if only to cover long distances more quickly and have even more "hooligan" potential. SLUK has just posted this, currenly under development: a 350 cc twin
  4. ... have been working on the tattier and tattier GP225 West Coast Fucker. It's a warm, sunny Spring Saturday and I couldn't think of a better way to spend it. Ok, back out there.
  5. BSSO British scooter racing has begun, with 2 races already done this calendar year. Of interest to Lambrettists and in addition to Group 4 and Group 6 classes is the new Lambretta Club Great Britain Production Class. These are Lambrettas with small block engines and RB20 200 cc kits. No porting is allowed. All Lambrettas run the same Franspeed supplied exhaust and carburetor. With Street Class - road going scooters with almost no restrictions, allowing road going scooters to be raced albeit without earning championship points, UK scooter racing has never been as accessible as it is today. Here's a video from the weekend onboard with Chris Geyton at Mallory Park.
  6. I'm waiting for the Gamma Lambretta speedo/tacho/dual temp guage thingy. Then I'll probably run sensors for CHT and EGT. It would be nice to have a tacho, but so far, my ears and seat of my pants have been my only guages. My speedo has never worked.
  7. Well, we'll see. I don't expect to be here beyond 2017 and the Euro Lambretta in Milan. I'll either be in Italy, Germany, the UK, Ireland, or the USA, in no particular order of preference. If I score a good paying job in either of these countries then I'll move. In the UK, full time ESL jobs pay as much as 30,000 pounds per year. I get a lot less than that over here. And if they do vote to leave the EU, then a work permit will be possible. It's turned warm, almost like summer, and life is blooming at an explosive rate. This would be a good time to set up a timelapse camera. I worked rebuilding the clutch on the street racer on and off all day Sunday. It was finally warm enough in the garage to work without my fingers stiffening up from the cold. I used 5 BGM racing red thin corks, MB springs, MB steels, one1.5mm steel over the bottom cork and the rest are 1.2mm and a thick GP top plate. I test rode it, well, I started to and then realised I forgot gear oil! I shut it down and pushed it back to the garage, added oil, started it up and took it around the block for a few runs, warming it up and then doing some acceleration runs. These aren't quite as fun as they used to be when it was geared to 5.0 : 1. It accelerates pretty well at 4.8, too, but it's geared for motorway speeds. Still, it didn't slip or drag. I'll see how it does when it gets really warmed up. One thing is for sure, though. It's so much easier to pull in than the 4 plate with MB springs plus an AF centre spring! I still have to replace the clutch cable as it's pretty worn.
  8. I've been thinking about coming back, but I'd like to try out life in the UK or Ireland. I had thought that being legal in the EU would be a way in. It still might. Also, with me and all my stuff here, it's nearly impossible for me to afford shipping everything back. At least while working in Poland. I'll need to find work in the Eurozone or the UK. I'm also worried about finding work in the USA as teaching English abroad isn't viewed as a respected career over there. But if I do move back, I think California is where I'll go. I'm about 50/50 at the moment.
  9. Thanks for replying, Mike. I'll do that, go with the thinnest shim. These are the new MB shims that fit between the rear sprocket and spider. They don't raise or lower the sprocket but instead take up space between the spider and the sprocket when the clearance there is too much, to account for differing sprocket and spider heights, or so that's how I understand it. The clearance may tighten up when I fully torque the clutch nut. I don't have anything to measure the alignment with, unless I can do that with a normal verneir caliper. Or can I? I'm running the standard shim behind the sprocket. I think Marcus from from Jockeys Boxenstop measured it at the Euro Lambretta in Austria when we put in a new front sprocket. I should learn how to measure it myself, though. And I have all the MB clutch shims, too.
  10. I can cure the rear sprocket rocking with an MB spider shim, but which one to use? I've narrowed my choice down to 2 of the 4 provided. The thinnest shim stops most of the rock and up and down movement and allows the rear sprocket to spin freely after the clutch nut is tightened. The next thicker one stops all up and down movement and rock, but when the clutch nut is tightened, there is some drag when turning the rear sprocket and holding the spider stationary. These are the shims that I bought: http://www.lambrettaspares.com/spares/clutch-aand-chain-spares/shim,-clutch-spider-set-%28kit%29-4-shims,-mb/mbp0271k.html Which one would you use?
  11. I should say that I'm totally broke, having spent my last 5zl (about a dollar and change) on toothpaste and a litre of milk. Fortunately, I have a few pork chops in the freezer, rice, dry red beans, tinned fish and pasta stored up for just such an occasion.
  12. The new season starts today for me. I've been away in England and it's been Spring over there for a while now. In Poland, Spring has been very cold and the plants have reacted by going dormant, budding leaves and flowers arrested in their development and with the dark, cold days I just didn't feel like working in an unheated garage. I'm now back in Warsaw two weeks later and it's finally warm enough and there is a enough sun to do some work on the West Coast Fucker GP street racer. The garage is damp and cold and needs a good airing out, too. I have to make many runs back and forth from my apartment to fetch tools. I think I'll move the tools to the garage for the summer once it warms up a little more. Today, I'm trying out an assortment of MB shims made for fitting between the clutch spider and the rear sprocket to tighten up the clearance between the two parts and prevent the rear sprocket from rocking back and forth. Ok, off I go.
  13. If you look at a crank as a replacement item, then welding the pin is a good idea. If you plan to rebuild your crank at some time in the future, it's probably best to have it built by someone who is a good engineer. MB was selling his own BGM cranks that he hand built himself.
  14. .... got back from England very tired and late. After 10 pm. Tomorrow I'm working on rebuilding the clutch and stopping the rear sprocket from rocking.
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