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Skywalker

LCUSA Member
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Skywalker last won the day on August 29 2018

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About Skywalker

  • Rank
    #887

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    SFBay
  • Currently Owned Lambrettas
    S2 li125
    Jet200
    Cento (wife)

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  1. Sounds like a good possibility. This is the original needle for the carb.... Only other needle I had was corroded/frozen into the other old carb from another Brio I'll dig around and see if I have another that fits and especially if one is shorter. It's odd that it seems intermittent, maybe the end of the needle is spongy from age and sticking to the inlet? I needles from other Dellos around somewhere I'm sure.
  2. You're probably long done with this but in case someone else has the issue: I had the same/similar problem (and maybe I replied way back if you also posted this on FB group). Found that if I seated the cable outer in the holder on the engine, the pressure on it kept it in the headset. Maddening and fussed with various attempts to keep it in place before that, then after seating the rear side first, no problem since. Haven't ridden a ton (still working out a carb issue and only recently found time again) but have turned handlebars a bunch wheeling it around and around the block a few times and has stayed put.
  3. @Mike Anhalt What buffers did you weld in to the case? What was the result with the stuck hub (if I'm remembering right that you had a stuck one like we did)?
  4. Reviving project after over 2 years (damn babies!). In case anyone interested in ramblings and odd grocery getter rebuild problems: Ran like in the video above a couple times down the street and around the block but heard a lot of metal-on-metal in the case. Pulled apart and found the kick assembly was wearing on the clutch bell, right on the arm. Couldn't figure out why, even padded out the side case but it was still rubbing. Took it off and put on a spare from another engine and rubbing was gone. Turns out the kick shaft was bent, but hard to notice just looking at it. With that sorted, ran into problems with it idling easily, even though it seem to run well when revving and plug looks great on lower half of throttle. Seems the carb has float or needle issues and fuel wasn't getting in fast enough when bowl emptied. Cleaned and inspected carb multiple times and now I think I'm going to change it out for a non-stock since some smarter J-range people say they just chuck the stock carbs anyway
  5. All I need is a head, wouldn't want to break up a nice stage4 setup
  6. I've heard some people say the Indian GP 200 heads are fine and some say they're iffy. Is there anyone that's built or been through enough of them that can comment on this? I need a new stock 200cc head (for a Jet barrel) that will likely need some heigh taken off anyway for port-timing reasons and there's lots of GP heads around but the only non-Indian heads I can find in stock are the FA Italia ones at SIP (time+shipping sucks). If anyone can speak with authority on having gone through a lot of GP heads and having no more issues than others (for instance, my original Jet200 head had a notable imperfection in the combustion chamber, so there's flaws in Spanish stuff as well now and then), then I'll just grab one of those for my opened-port port-timed 200. Otherwise if there's anyone out there with one handy (especially in SFBay) so I can get it to HR Al quickly, I'm interested. Thanks!
  7. Yep, easy to lock sheets/ranges in Google Docs. Can have a sheet that's editable so people can add entries and then have a few people maintain (can get emails when people add to it) to copy them to the locked form. Easy stuff.
  8. As an example, this is what the moped kids have collectively created: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1F_0LaiQj5zDMZujVP8MvJV44CxUQNTNRqsViW_OX-eY/edit#gid=3 I ran across it a while back when searching for jets.
  9. Also be prepared for this to not be easy. Many stories, including my own, of them being stuck as fuck. Had one that spun fine but was just fused on. Used PB blaster, 3-leg puller w/ impact gun, torch heated and cooled 20+ times. Finally had to cut it off and afterwards had no evidence of why it was stuck. Here's hoping yours comes off, but be patient if you have to save the hub!
  10. Solved! Thanks to Solerunner to pointing me back to the points. Filed down a feeler gauge to fit around that jammed up condenser and sure enough, was too small. I hadn't thought to recheck them after changing to a less-broken flywheel. Good lesson in points and how they work, the cam on flywheels can have quite the variation. Widened the gap to around .40 (reference says .35 - .45mm is where it should be) and there is now spark. Now to test if it'll fire up... Thanks everyone for the input.
  11. See my last post for where I'm at. Forgot to attempt the "lift a ratchet with it" test. What do you mean by "Ohm out the coil"?
  12. Well I might be at SF Classic with this tomorrow and/or Sat, but it isn't running yet. Tested the Volts out of the ignition wire and they easily get over over 2v when I give it a good kick (mm set to AC Volt measurement), but stay below the stated 1.7v minimum if I kick slow (expected result, I would think). If D-Lo's info is right, then I'm getting enough juice through there. But then it wouldn't make sense that I'm not getting spark so not sure what's up. Tried another coil (bakelite style from a 70s Primavera) which runs great and again NO spark when connected to the Cento. Also tried Champion plug since I know they're needed instead of NGK's on old points bikes... no difference. Makes me wonder if the power creation is fine but somehow it's bleeding off before the coil can use it? Any ignition/electrical wizards going to be out at the SF Classic this w/e?
  13. If you mean for testing the coil, I tested it and it works fine on another scoot, so thinking that's not the issue. But this is great to have for the other two old coils I have for other restorations to know if I should replace them
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