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Mike Anhalt

LCUSA Member
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Posts posted by Mike Anhalt


  1. there is only 1 green wire from the kill switch to the ignition coil. If you put a meter on the ends it will read 0 ohms as if it were a single piece of wire (which it is). The double green is just a break out point along that wire.

     

    don't overthink it

    • Like 1

  2. 3 hours ago, TRs said:

    Mike, see the "Not Used" on the greens...? That needs to be connected for the kill function. I am guessing you mean just the stator wiring when you say rest looks correct...

    Not sure what you mean about the greens. Those 2 on the left side of the picture just common together so you can tie the kill switch from the headset to the coil on a standard/stock loom (IGNITION +). 

     

     

    Red, common with the single green from your loom, goes to terminal 1 (IGNITION +)

    • Like 1

  3. It’s a bummer that they can’t keep it together anymore. I don’t know much about their problems other than they aren’t selling like they’d like them to be. 
     

    if I had to guess there’s a few factors involved. 
     

    $, the people with money to buy are not interested in the HD lifestyle and competition by other makes, there are a lot of options

    Regulations have affectively shut down the custom tuning market. in CA the California air resource board has made it illegal for shops to modify motorcycle exhausts for new bikes. CA is a stupid huge market and affects everything else. Sorry. 
     

    I could be FOS but that’s how I see it. 

    • Upvote 2

  4. Unfortunately it's a lot more complicated than that (if you really want a good performing bike). If you don't really care to get the most out of your kit then run the BGM box and call it a day. That exhaust has a decent spread of power, fit nice and basically look stock.

     

    If you do want to really get greasy with it then....

     

     

    A 58 stroke won't get you a 230, you'll have a 223.5cc (225). https://www.google.com/search?q=cylinder+volume&rlz=1C1GGRV_enUS788US788&oq=cylinder+volume&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l6j69i64.3343j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

     

    Great resources to read up on

    https://lambretta-images.com/tuningh/port-timing-calculators/?v=7516fd43adaa

    https://www.mbscooters.co.uk/info/mb-*-cylinder-tuning/cylinder-*-tuning-part-4+140.html

    I'd look in to what your port timings are first and from there you'll be able to track down the exhaust you want and then determine what gearing you need. Most pipes have details somewhere on the internet. For your commute, is it all city or highway riding?   

     

     

    • Like 1
    • Upvote 1

  5. On 8/28/2018 at 3:53 PM, Skywalker said:

    @Mike Anhalt  What buffers did you weld in to the case?  What was the result with the stuck hub (if I'm remembering right that you had a stuck one like we did)?

    Sorry, I totally missed your question. 
     

    nothing got welded in to the case. I think what you’re seeing is anti seize grease around the engine mounts. They were the worst part of the rebuild. The pulling tool doesn’t work worth a damn and even if it did the design is flawed, they want to pull out at an angle (fixed on the later Indian sunnys).

     

    rear hub was totally stuck. I think I took it to a local machine shop and had them press it off the lay shaft. That one was tricky since we wanted to save as much paint as possible so we could just throw the torch on it.

    • Upvote 2

  6. Nope

     

    8_5_main.jpg

     

    It's a flat shim that has an ID about the same as the shift rod and is a couple of mm thick.

    Sometimes you'll find 3 or 4 in there if the gap is really big. These are missing a lot of the time because they like to stick to the pulley just long enough to get removed from the headset and then fall in to oblivion. A well shimmed headset makes a ton of difference in how the bike shifts and feels overall.

     

     

    • Upvote 1

  7. Pc users, Right click and select copy link on any photo from the web. Paste in to the forum posting. I don’t know mac. 
     

    or

     

    host photo on scoot.net/gallery/bbs

    copy paste url in to your post. 


  8. The shift pulley holds all of that together. I'd make sure the screw that fits in the pulley is still in place. There is also a shim that helps tighten all of that up. Usually they get missed and you end up with sloppy feeling shifters.

     

    headset_LI.jpg

     

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