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Mike Anhalt

LCUSA Member
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Everything posted by Mike Anhalt

  1. Dropping the forks isn't necessary. Yes it makes the rebuild easier but that job can be done in place. The hardest part will be keeping the forks still while you compress the springs. Just tie the bars to one side and you'll be good. If you plan on replacing the cables too, then drop the forks. Having the headset off makes like easy at that point.
  2. Buy the correct tool. That clamp design is trash and will destroy the paint on your forks (even taped up). I bought one years ago from the san diego shop, used it once and saw it rip the paint off the fork leg. I think it's in my junk box now.
  3. I usually clean them up with a hand file so there's no chance of a stray piece of metal breaking loose. Since you're rebuilding the motor, get in there and make it look good.
  4. that's not really damage. The serveta cases have that super thin lip removed and I've taken out more than I can remember. The metal there is wafer thin and usually cracked. All the actual sealing comes from the rubber seal and the gasket that sits between the bearing and that seal. When I get a chance I'll post a photo of a Serveta block I'm working on and you'll see exactly what I mean.
  5. MBD 5 speed all the way. Haven't heard of a single one breaking.
  6. Good looking S1 As long as the surfaces are actually flat, the compression and squish are correct there is no need to run a gasket.
  7. Don’t take it personally. These things take time to catch on and grow. Even then it requires a huge amount of energy to keep them going and remain relevant. You’re competing with things like FB and a neich free forum just isn’t going to compete just look at this forum, it’s practically a ghost town and the LCUSA has had a forum for over 15 years. I’d try posting the info you want to see here and then once that’s established start to spin it off.
  8. Next year we’ll have a better setup so we can all run back to back. Your bike sounded great. thanks for setting this thing in motion.
  9. https://www.scootering.com/ congrats to Todd on making it on the cover of November Scootering! And Josh for the heads up, I have to buy a copy now.
  10. I stand corrected on that. Speaking with a 2nd ave scooters, Eric told me about an excellent badge tape that he uses on builds that don't have badges with pins built in. https://www.amazon.com/3M-08069-Press-Place-Adhesive/dp/B000PEWDJW I think this is what he was talking about.
  11. There are pins on the back of the badges normally, so you would need to have holes for them. If you are reusing your badges or the holes were covered up you can can use emblem tape but it won't work as well as you think it will. https://www.google.com/search?q=emblem+tape&rlz=1C1GGRV_enUS788US788&oq=emblem+tape&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.2554j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
  12. nope, these bikes are not that heavy.
  13. They work okay, better with a couple of tricks. Be sure to tie down the back end. I like to run a tie strap through the rear wheel between the hub and rim to hold it down. I added a piece of angle iron at the front end to spread out the front tiedows. They move around a lot on the hitch mount but so far I haven't had any problems.
  14. From what I’ve been able to piece together, pretty much any shop that could sell motorcycles/scooters did so. There was almost no brand loyalty unless you were buying from sears or MW (even then, there were lots of brands with the house brand attached to them) I have a Black plate style plate frame that came off a S1, it reads Riverside and scooterramma.
  15. 😲 I'm having a hard time seeing how that will actually work with non-GP fork links
  16. The problem is these nylock nuts are not meant to be reused. Here we are some 50-60 years later still using this stuff! If you are going to use original hardware always use a new wave or lock washer and add a drop of anti seize grease on the threads of the nut. This way you can get the nut all the way tight on the stud and you won't risk them going loose on you.
  17. The design can def be improve on. Would be interested in seeing what you come up with
  18. It’s pretty specific to the job and makes it very easy. I don’t think you can build them (LI/SX type) with out it. Are you having a hard time finding one or trying to avoid buying one? I bought mine from Cambridge Lambretta about 15 years ago.
  19. 4 speed SX200 box. I tried for days to set up my MBD 5 speed but it wasn't happy in that case. My first run on the salt and the crank spread. It caused the rod to go bang (58/116 MEC crank). Todd had me do a couple of runs on his bike. Run 1, I got 47mph do to hitting a soft stretch in the middle of the track and the bike picked up a speed wobble Run 2, 81mph Like Todd says, the salt changes all day long and depending on, temp, time, breakfast, alignment of the sun, how much exhaust you sucked in from standing in line and how close you are to sun stroke your runs will vary If anyone wants to build or even just modify their "fast" bike for the salt just let us know. We learned a ton that weekend. There is a hand full of tech things that have to happen to be allowed to run.
  20. That 73 pinto rocked. The whole family drove it at one time or another and it sounded great.
  21. Going to start dropping photos here as soon as I sort them out. For now here's a teaser. As far as we can tell this is the first time a Lambretta has ever run on the salt here. I blew out my crank big end (cracked the case and everything) on my first run but don't care. It was a blast. Todd kicked but with a respectable 87.6 mph and I pulled a 81.7mph on his bike. Jay nailed 77mph with his full body S2 running a quatrini 210 Special thanks to Jay Keel, Planet Lambretta, Deanspeed and the LCUSA. All of your help and support made this possible.
  22. It does sound like there could be a couple of issues. For the hub studs, always use a touch of antiseize grease on the threads. This way the nut will go fully home. It will not bind up and give you a false tightened. Been running mine like this for a few years (after the same thing happened to me) and have had no issues or loose hardware since. Rear main seal is easy to change. 4 nuts and washers with the two seal plates. Use a small dental type hook and pull the old seal. Replace with new seal. Once that’s all good then start looking for the ping. Plug checks etc.
  23. I’m going to be the best dentist ever. famed chopper builder Excile was a dental student when he was building Lambretta choppers
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