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Mike Anhalt

LCUSA Member
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Everything posted by Mike Anhalt

  1. the 1mm reduction was due to the 115 yamaha rod? Looks salt ready to me😎
  2. Unfortunately it's a lot more complicated than that (if you really want a good performing bike). If you don't really care to get the most out of your kit then run the BGM box and call it a day. That exhaust has a decent spread of power, fit nice and basically look stock. If you do want to really get greasy with it then.... A 58 stroke won't get you a 230, you'll have a 223.5cc (225). https://www.google.com/search?q=cylinder+volume&rlz=1C1GGRV_enUS788US788&oq=cylinder+volume&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l6j69i64.3343j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 Great resources to read up on https://lambretta-images.com/tuningh/port-timing-calculators/?v=7516fd43adaa https://www.mbscooters.co.uk/info/mb-*-cylinder-tuning/cylinder-*-tuning-part-4+140.html I'd look in to what your port timings are first and from there you'll be able to track down the exhaust you want and then determine what gearing you need. Most pipes have details somewhere on the internet. For your commute, is it all city or highway riding?
  3. Sorry, I totally missed your question. nothing got welded in to the case. I think what you’re seeing is anti seize grease around the engine mounts. They were the worst part of the rebuild. The pulling tool doesn’t work worth a damn and even if it did the design is flawed, they want to pull out at an angle (fixed on the later Indian sunnys). rear hub was totally stuck. I think I took it to a local machine shop and had them press it off the lay shaft. That one was tricky since we wanted to save as much paint as possible so we could just throw the torch on it.
  4. It’s a rabbit hole. There’s tones of information regarding exhaust and head temps (some with facts even). read up on Jennings, two stroke tuning handbook. http://www.amrca.com/tech/tuners.pdf
  5. All series bikes have interchangeable seats. They are front/back specific though.
  6. Nope It's a flat shim that has an ID about the same as the shift rod and is a couple of mm thick. Sometimes you'll find 3 or 4 in there if the gap is really big. These are missing a lot of the time because they like to stick to the pulley just long enough to get removed from the headset and then fall in to oblivion. A well shimmed headset makes a ton of difference in how the bike shifts and feels overall.
  7. Missing the shim, cable guide and the hardware is mis-matched
  8. Pc users, Right click and select copy link on any photo from the web. Paste in to the forum posting. I don’t know mac. or host photo on scoot.net/gallery/bbs copy paste url in to your post.
  9. http://www.scooterrestorations.com/lambretta/throttle-distance-washer/ http://www.scooterrestorations.com/lambretta/sec-8-handlebar-fork-speedometer/ Part 12 in the drawing
  10. The shift pulley holds all of that together. I'd make sure the screw that fits in the pulley is still in place. There is also a shim that helps tighten all of that up. Usually they get missed and you end up with sloppy feeling shifters.
  11. I'm confused as to what's going on. Point to where the problem is on this stolen photo of a S3 LI headset from Google.
  12. It's used for tuning the carb for max power and hopefully keep you from melting your motor. YMMV
  13. Dropping the forks isn't necessary. Yes it makes the rebuild easier but that job can be done in place. The hardest part will be keeping the forks still while you compress the springs. Just tie the bars to one side and you'll be good. If you plan on replacing the cables too, then drop the forks. Having the headset off makes like easy at that point.
  14. Buy the correct tool. That clamp design is trash and will destroy the paint on your forks (even taped up). I bought one years ago from the san diego shop, used it once and saw it rip the paint off the fork leg. I think it's in my junk box now.
  15. I usually clean them up with a hand file so there's no chance of a stray piece of metal breaking loose. Since you're rebuilding the motor, get in there and make it look good.
  16. that's not really damage. The serveta cases have that super thin lip removed and I've taken out more than I can remember. The metal there is wafer thin and usually cracked. All the actual sealing comes from the rubber seal and the gasket that sits between the bearing and that seal. When I get a chance I'll post a photo of a Serveta block I'm working on and you'll see exactly what I mean.
  17. MBD 5 speed all the way. Haven't heard of a single one breaking.
  18. Good looking S1 As long as the surfaces are actually flat, the compression and squish are correct there is no need to run a gasket.
  19. Don’t take it personally. These things take time to catch on and grow. Even then it requires a huge amount of energy to keep them going and remain relevant. You’re competing with things like FB and a neich free forum just isn’t going to compete just look at this forum, it’s practically a ghost town and the LCUSA has had a forum for over 15 years. I’d try posting the info you want to see here and then once that’s established start to spin it off.
  20. Next year we’ll have a better setup so we can all run back to back. Your bike sounded great. thanks for setting this thing in motion.
  21. https://www.scootering.com/ congrats to Todd on making it on the cover of November Scootering! And Josh for the heads up, I have to buy a copy now.
  22. I stand corrected on that. Speaking with a 2nd ave scooters, Eric told me about an excellent badge tape that he uses on builds that don't have badges with pins built in. https://www.amazon.com/3M-08069-Press-Place-Adhesive/dp/B000PEWDJW I think this is what he was talking about.
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