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Mike Anhalt

LCUSA Member
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Mike Anhalt last won the day on February 15

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About Mike Anhalt

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  • Birthday 09/08/1973

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  • Location
    Bakersfield, CA
  • Interests
    Lambretta, cats, technology, 2nd amendment
  • Currently Owned Lambrettas
    dl125, Riverside, LD150 mk3, RB20, Series 2 Colorado bike.

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  1. the 1mm reduction was due to the 115 yamaha rod? Looks salt ready to me😎
  2. Unfortunately it's a lot more complicated than that (if you really want a good performing bike). If you don't really care to get the most out of your kit then run the BGM box and call it a day. That exhaust has a decent spread of power, fit nice and basically look stock. If you do want to really get greasy with it then.... A 58 stroke won't get you a 230, you'll have a 223.5cc (225). https://www.google.com/search?q=cylinder+volume&rlz=1C1GGRV_enUS788US788&oq=cylinder+volume&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l6j69i64.3343j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 Great resources to read up on https://lambretta-images.com/tuningh/port-timing-calculators/?v=7516fd43adaa https://www.mbscooters.co.uk/info/mb-*-cylinder-tuning/cylinder-*-tuning-part-4+140.html I'd look in to what your port timings are first and from there you'll be able to track down the exhaust you want and then determine what gearing you need. Most pipes have details somewhere on the internet. For your commute, is it all city or highway riding?
  3. Sorry, I totally missed your question. nothing got welded in to the case. I think what you’re seeing is anti seize grease around the engine mounts. They were the worst part of the rebuild. The pulling tool doesn’t work worth a damn and even if it did the design is flawed, they want to pull out at an angle (fixed on the later Indian sunnys). rear hub was totally stuck. I think I took it to a local machine shop and had them press it off the lay shaft. That one was tricky since we wanted to save as much paint as possible so we could just throw the torch on it.
  4. It’s a rabbit hole. There’s tones of information regarding exhaust and head temps (some with facts even). read up on Jennings, two stroke tuning handbook. http://www.amrca.com/tech/tuners.pdf
  5. All series bikes have interchangeable seats. They are front/back specific though.
  6. Nope It's a flat shim that has an ID about the same as the shift rod and is a couple of mm thick. Sometimes you'll find 3 or 4 in there if the gap is really big. These are missing a lot of the time because they like to stick to the pulley just long enough to get removed from the headset and then fall in to oblivion. A well shimmed headset makes a ton of difference in how the bike shifts and feels overall.
  7. Missing the shim, cable guide and the hardware is mis-matched
  8. Pc users, Right click and select copy link on any photo from the web. Paste in to the forum posting. I don’t know mac. or host photo on scoot.net/gallery/bbs copy paste url in to your post.
  9. http://www.scooterrestorations.com/lambretta/throttle-distance-washer/ http://www.scooterrestorations.com/lambretta/sec-8-handlebar-fork-speedometer/ Part 12 in the drawing
  10. The shift pulley holds all of that together. I'd make sure the screw that fits in the pulley is still in place. There is also a shim that helps tighten all of that up. Usually they get missed and you end up with sloppy feeling shifters.
  11. I'm confused as to what's going on. Point to where the problem is on this stolen photo of a S3 LI headset from Google.
  12. It's used for tuning the carb for max power and hopefully keep you from melting your motor. YMMV
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