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Mike Anhalt

LCUSA Member
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Mike Anhalt last won the day on January 14

Mike Anhalt had the most liked content!

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About Mike Anhalt

  • Rank
    #303
  • Birthday 09/08/1973

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  • Website URL
    http://www.youtube.com/onthelambretta

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bakersfield, CA
  • Interests
    Lambretta, cats, technology, 2nd amendment
  • Currently Owned Lambrettas
    dl125, Riverside, LD150 mk3, RB20, Series 2 Colorado bike.

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  1. All series bikes have interchangeable seats. They are front/back specific though.
  2. Nope It's a flat shim that has an ID about the same as the shift rod and is a couple of mm thick. Sometimes you'll find 3 or 4 in there if the gap is really big. These are missing a lot of the time because they like to stick to the pulley just long enough to get removed from the headset and then fall in to oblivion. A well shimmed headset makes a ton of difference in how the bike shifts and feels overall.
  3. Missing the shim, cable guide and the hardware is mis-matched
  4. Pc users, Right click and select copy link on any photo from the web. Paste in to the forum posting. I don’t know mac. or host photo on scoot.net/gallery/bbs copy paste url in to your post.
  5. http://www.scooterrestorations.com/lambretta/throttle-distance-washer/ http://www.scooterrestorations.com/lambretta/sec-8-handlebar-fork-speedometer/ Part 12 in the drawing
  6. The shift pulley holds all of that together. I'd make sure the screw that fits in the pulley is still in place. There is also a shim that helps tighten all of that up. Usually they get missed and you end up with sloppy feeling shifters.
  7. I'm confused as to what's going on. Point to where the problem is on this stolen photo of a S3 LI headset from Google.
  8. It's used for tuning the carb for max power and hopefully keep you from melting your motor. YMMV
  9. Dropping the forks isn't necessary. Yes it makes the rebuild easier but that job can be done in place. The hardest part will be keeping the forks still while you compress the springs. Just tie the bars to one side and you'll be good. If you plan on replacing the cables too, then drop the forks. Having the headset off makes like easy at that point.
  10. Buy the correct tool. That clamp design is trash and will destroy the paint on your forks (even taped up). I bought one years ago from the san diego shop, used it once and saw it rip the paint off the fork leg. I think it's in my junk box now.
  11. I usually clean them up with a hand file so there's no chance of a stray piece of metal breaking loose. Since you're rebuilding the motor, get in there and make it look good.
  12. that's not really damage. The serveta cases have that super thin lip removed and I've taken out more than I can remember. The metal there is wafer thin and usually cracked. All the actual sealing comes from the rubber seal and the gasket that sits between the bearing and that seal. When I get a chance I'll post a photo of a Serveta block I'm working on and you'll see exactly what I mean.
  13. MBD 5 speed all the way. Haven't heard of a single one breaking.
  14. Good looking S1 As long as the surfaces are actually flat, the compression and squish are correct there is no need to run a gasket.
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