damonlevine

Perfect suggestion, Benji.

I'm going with the fine-tipped paint pen.

Are you saying dip the toothpick in paint and use it to paint the numbers?

Thanks Benji. Regarding the play, are you referring to the headset top to the right in the photo? If so, it's not screwed on and is probably being pushed up by the clutch or front-brake cables. If not, it's probably a trick of the light as all spacers are where they should be.

What process are folks using to paint the gear numbers on the headset? Is it anything special or just a fine brush and a steady hand? Thanks.

Thanks for that clarification, Mike.

The repair photos are further up in this thread. They're what I'm taking to my TIG guy to use. But I'm trying to verify whether it's as simple as building up the broken aluminum and putting the ferrule in the hole.

Regardless of whether I buy a new headset bottom or not, the fix for this is to build up the aluminum then press in the ferrule, right? Or do I weld around the ferrule, trapping it in place? This is my first complete rebuild so any info is appreciated.

Let's talk offline.

New buffers and retorque-ing fixed it. Thanks Corey.

To verify, all I need to do is build up the aluminum, then press in the brass ferrule? Thanks.

So I took the forks apart and it looks like I have one buffer that is slightly larger and three that are the same size. Odd but once I get another large buffer, we'll see if this fixes things.

Yeah, this sounds about right. Buffers and stops are brand new. Springs, links and pistons are original. Thanks. I'll be tearing the forks apart again.

Derek, these are the scoot's original links. Kickstart-side link has the locating pin. The other side does not, as it's supposed to be.

BGM stainless split rims with inner tubes.