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jbcollier

LCUSA Member
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jbcollier last won the day on February 5

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About jbcollier

  • Rank
    #804

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Edmonton Alberta
  • Interests
    vintage scooters, motorcycles, Lotuses, photography, P.G. Wodehouse
  • Currently Owned Lambrettas
    1955 150D

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. I thought the LD/D shaft drive engines had outside lube holes for the fly-side bearings. Mine certainly did ('55 D150). They have inner and outer seals: So it's not getting lube from the mix. Regardless, pack them on assembly with modern grease and then there's no need re-grease them again. The lube "pipes" you show I have not seen before. This next page shows the ports I'm familiar with:
  2. Hmm, any photos of the hypothetical broken studs? I have a D and am not familiar with the LD tail light. I have, however, removed hundreds of broken fasteners over my long years as an auto tech. Usually you can just drill them out. The key is to very carefully centre punch the exact centre of the broken fastner. Start with small drill bits and slowly work your way up to larger bits. If you got the centre accurately then you will just have to pick the threads out and you're back in business. There are also extractor tools where you drill a hole smaller than the fastener and insert the tool to allow you to turn the broken fastener out. You have to be extremely careful as the extractors are made of very hard steel and can easily fracture. If it does fracture, you are in much worse shape as you can't drill in the hardened extractor. Stick to the first method if you can.
  3. Normal RH thread on the 24 mm clutch bell nut (bevel side to the locking tab washer when reassembling). The 14 mm clutch centre nut (which you already have removed) is LH thread except for early 125s which have RH thread and no locking tab washer
  4. The pipe is a one-off by a local builder. I asked that it boost the mid-range so it's very long. The engine runs an alloy cylinder, stroked Li crank, 125DL head (it has squish!) and varitronic ignition. The Lotus is a 1968 Europa S1 with a Renault R17 crossflow.
  5. I have an Abarth exhaust but they don't actually make any more power. More noise, yes. Power, not really. Mine's in better shape than what you have shown but would require the tailpipes get re-chromed. Stock exhausts look like this inside: There are good reproduction exhausts out there from Casa Lambretta.
  6. Remember that oil recommendations from back in the day were for mixing with plain old engine oil. That's why so much oil, and regular decokes, were required. My D has a needle bearing small end and I run 3%. Plain bush small end should run at 4% to 5% just fine. Also adding extra oil LEANS the mixture so you can easily add extra oil and suffer a seize. Compression readings can vary between gauges and techniques used. Still, 70 psi does sound low. It's pretty easy to pop the head off and see what's up. Raising the needle only enriches the mid-range. The main jet controls the mixture at "high speed". Which is most of the time given the enormous output of these engines.
  7. For testing purposes, sure. Flat out up a long hill, perhaps not. The "modified" exhaust could be leaning the mix.
  8. Smart repair on the fuel tap though the correct gasket should be available/order-able from Jet200. High temp silicon gasket works on exhausts.
  9. GL-4 is ok, GL-5 can attack brass bushings. The selector spring plug should have a fibre washer as well: Finally, the gear box oil level plug should just unscrew. If it doesn't, the threads must be toast. You could probably fit a heli-coil once the plug is out (may require a modest amount of violence).
  10. Oil change thread: Gearbox drain plug: https://jbcollier.smugmug.com/Scooter/i-TFfhXjN/A Gearbox/clutch level plug (centre of picture): https://jbcollier.smugmug.com/Scooter/i-x2T5Z22/A You use non-detergent 30 weight oil in the gearbox/clutch. You can find it in hardware stores in the lawnmower section. You can also use motorcycle gearbox oil for wet clutches. The rear bevel gear housing takes 140 weight gear oil, not hypoid nor GL5. The hex plugs use fibre washers.
  11. Reproduction switches are available from Casa Lambretta dealers. Jet 200 is one in the US. Remove the tank. Several ways you can clean it out: - add a pound or two of 1/4" nuts, wrap in towels and tape, and put in a dryer (NO HEAT). Works well, may alarm significant other. - find concrete cleaner with phosphoric acid, mix it up and soak tank. Works well, leaves neutral, corrosion resistant coating. - use dilute muriatic acid (paint store, use with caution, very strong), thoroughly rinse tank afterwards and coat with 2T oil. Works well but acid is very strong. Leaves raw surface which will corrode again quickly unless coated - use any of the above and then line the tank with an ethanol proof product.
  12. As far as I know, there wasn't an accessory fuel tank that mounts to the spare. I found the tank on ebay and adapted it to fit.
  13. https://jbcollier.smugmug.com/Scooter/i-rp22N9R/Ahttps://jbcollier.smugmug.com/Scooter/i-tb93NRr/A
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