jambretta

As long as the shed is not damp/wet, the rust shouldn't progress much. Bad to cover it with plastic as that tends to store condensation and would increase dampness under the cover. Not perfect, but you can stop the rust by dabbing rust neutralizer on the spots, but they will turn black. That coating will be paintable if you wanted. But the coating will last years and will not rust. A less desirable but reversible way is to smear grease on those rust spots to keep moisture out. But then you'd have to clean it all off in the future.

It looks like it is getting closer to release. https://scooterlab.uk/win-a-set-of-uni-lambretta-engine-casings-competition/

2nd bike to your left from about the center (black scoot no rider). My nephew's on the back of my sx150 (light colored front fender).

Agreed, although we've never equaled this LALO 2009 turnout. Trying to beat this turnout in 2019 when it will be LALO XV! But I have to say that the Pasadena Jammy was pretty impressive.

IF one is running 6volt original, I found this $4 rear bulb https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-vehicle-replacement-bulbs/1157-led-bulb-dual-function-19-led-forward-firing-cluster-bay15d-retrofit-car-classic-car-bulbs/508/1691/?utm_source=Criteo Dynamic Remarketing&utm_medium=Criteo Dynamic Remarketing&utm_campaign=Criteo Dynamic Remarketing It will draw way less current, but unless you have a 6v regulator, it might blow quickly. That's what happened with my BGM plate type 6v led rear light ($24).

How about rear bulb for $2 each for LED bulb (1157 bayonet)? http://4into1.com/led-bulb-27-smd-1157/

puncture the tube with a nail and squeeze out what you need. Self sealing. Next time, poke another hole with a nail. Repeat.

Jordan (Series II LI150), Pelayo (Series III SX150), and Mike (Series 1 TV).

Since your main dissatisfaction is that the engine won't rev out in 2nd and 3rd, try a few easy and reversible things first, like allowing more air flow to the motor (metal mesh filter or cutting out the airbox stomach thing, and taking off the air scoop under the seat) then rejetting. like this kit http://jet200.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2337 If that's not enough, get a larger bore exhaust, but don't go crazy.

I can attest that the 20mm stock carb can get you going really fast if you get the right exhaust and free up the air intake (wire mesh filter, keep the hose and airbox, remove the air scoop under the seat) a bit. I had an sh1/20 on my deanspeed 190 with a boomstick ds and my series III was really fast (maybe 70mph on the freeway). I only switched to a phbl 24mm b/c I could not get the jetting (low/mid) tuned in for the expansion chamber. The lack of a slide needle on the SH1/20 was the issue. I suggest trying out different exhausts short of an expansion chamber and increasing airflow, but leave on the sh1/20. Here's the carb kit I bought. http://jet200.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2340

is the cotter pin which links the control rod to the petcock somehow hitting the throttle where the cable attaches to the carb? So when you pull the throttle, it twists the petcock closed. OR, the cotter pin is hitting the silent block and twising closed after driving about and bouncing up and down. Just guessing. photo

Damn, you guys think of everything.

There are many Lambrettisti who are not LCUSA members (in the San Francisco Bay Area). They will show up for the Jammy though. But they obviously are not voting. Ironically, some of them are participating in putting on the Santa Cruz potential Jammy.

Road to Santa Cruz

Great meeting you at LALO Siobhan. And thanks for stepping up into leadership on this so quickly. Have you all looked at this place? Maybe rent the whole thing out. It still is probably not big enough. http://www.fernriver.com/cabins.php Actually the Happy Valley place may be perfect. THey are taking bookings for 2018 and June and July are open right now. http://www.happyvalleycc.org/facilities/ Pelayo