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Andrew ITA

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Andrew ITA last won the day on December 22 2017

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About Andrew ITA

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    Fort Worth TX
  • Currently Owned Lambrettas
    Lambretta LD 150
    Lambretta LUI 50 CL

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  1. ...almost there! Unfortunately weather in TX is not helping the process, but finally I've narrowed it down to a point where I can do all the fine tuning within a day. These are my findings: -The Malossi filter was restricting air intake, the Polini free flow changed everything -Pilot jet: 50 (45 is too small, 55 is too rich) -Main Jet: now I'm running 94 and it's decent. A little slow in in peaking but I got to 45mph, I think I'm still missing 3 to 5 mph -Lower than 90 and it's starving fuel, losing about 5/7 mph -96 and higher it floods and doesn't rpm high enough, losing 5/7 mph So now I just need to fine tune it, knowing it's in the 90-95 bracket. Spark plugs: -B6HS: too hot -B7HS: still a little too hot -B8HS: this will be my next step, I placed an order already, will see when it arrives This is with 94 main, after 4 miles, mostly at WOT
  2. Great ideas! This is what I have in my house: -Disconnect the inner rods operated by the outside handle (now it just rotates freely, it's useless) -Take emergency pull cable out, ziptie the mechanism -Put motion/area sensor or door sensor in the garage so it's monitored like the rest of the house via the alarm system (don't know why but I rarely see this simple upgrade) -Security camera inside -Get your garage contents surveyed by the insurance company to add the scooters and equipment to the policy Back in Italy it's gotten so bad that I have friends cementing eye-bolts to the garage floors to chain their scooters down using heavy duty chains...makes no sense to me, if you are getting to that paranoid it's either time to move or let the hobby go, hope it will never reach those levels here because there's just so much we can do without losing sleep over it, scumbags will always find a way to ruin our day. I'm glad nothing happened to Mike, thieves are the worst
  3. Speaking of finishing...I was able to fix the exhaust leak at the cylinder, now I got one at the side inspection covers...more copper gasket will fix it. Anyways, just wanted to share my quest for the perfect tune up. Even if the jetting is off, the PHBG is way better in terms of idle, throttle response and linearity, I think it was a good bet. As you can see I started pretty rich. After the first ride, this is what I observed: -Lots of smoke -Weak low range -Idle Mix screw totally ineffective -OK midrange -Engine Can't take more than 70% throttle -Max speed 35mph Spark plug looked like this, evidently rich but not that far off. For the second test, I performed these changes: -Change mix to 4% Synth -Dropped 5 points on main jet -Dropped 5 points on idle jet Results: -Normal smoke levels, almost gone when engine warms up -Ok low rpms -Idle Mix screw improved, but still not really effective -Ok midreange -Top range improved by 10%, engine still can't take more than 80% throttle -Max speed 41mph The spark plug looks like this. Richer than before, I think because of the drop in oil to 4%. Tomorrow, before dropping 5 more points on main and idle, I will try running the engine without air filter (to see if the box restricts the air intake too much) and inspect the exhaust, since I have to open it anyways to seal the inspection covers.
  4. thanks! Took forever, but it was worth it...I'm very close to finish it, will post the final pics soon!
  5. Today I finished the last detail...my grandpa used to say that doing things right always helps you save half the time...in fact I tried to fiddle with the throttle cable that was clearly too short. trying to reroute, bend it here and there...but ended up wasting time and the LD was still accelerating while on the stand. So I came up with this solution, hope it will help other folks that run PHBGs on these scooters. You need a 90 degree and a 40 degree elbow kit. If you are good at machining, you can build an adapter (male M5x0.75 to female M6x0.75) or if you can't, you can buy a small aluminum spacer (I found it at ACE) that you can use as a sleeve connector. I drilled it with a 15/64 bit, which is about 5.95mm. Once you make the hole you end up at around 5.97 while the Dell'Orto elbows are 6mm OD, just perfect for an interference fit. I simply heated the connector and pushed the two elbows in by hand As you can see the cable ends in a better location, having enough slack to operate correctly
  6. Ok this is what I found. This is my exhaust, it's a new repop from CL. Notice the thin flange. Here is a picture of an OEM flange, notice how thick it is, appears to be machined instead of pressed And this is a comparison between the two gaskets. The CL one is thicker and much softer, a rubber gasket is sandwhiched between two aluminum rings You never stop learning with these LDs
  7. With regards of the exhaust leaking at the flange, I've called some "seniors" who told me something I didn't really know... There are 2 types of exhaust flanges: -OEM type -"import" type The "OEM" type has a thick, machined flange. It requires a copper seal, you tighten it then let the engine get up to temp, then tighten again for an additional 1/4 to 1/2 turn The "import" style has a thin 0.8mm flange. This requires the use of the alu/rubber "sandwiched" seal. The only way to seal it is to tighten it moderately and use a liquid gasket to aid sealing. If it leaks...avoid over-torqueing it and just wait until the deposits seal the leak. If you tighten it too much, chances are you deform the flange and it will leak even more. I'll check it out and let you guys know how and if it works
  8. Ok so this is what I'm going to do to fix the issues. The original jetting with the MA19B4 was 45 MIN and 72 MAX. I'm now running 50 / 82 with a PHBG 21 AS. What I'm observing is: exhaust leak, throttle only takes 70% of travel until engine hits the wall, in 3td gear is about 40mph. Bottom/mid is a little weak. Spark plug looks like this, a little dark (but not too much), oily. I will try this: -Drop the max jet to 77, which is 5 less than what I'm currently running and 5 more than the standard spec. -Needle down 1 slot -Flush tank and run 4% mix w/ Motul 710
  9. Yes it's copper, I special ordered it on purpose since the aluminum ones usually lead to leaks. Great idea about annealing it, I'll try that along with the copper paste. With regards of the mix, I follow Tino's recommendations for the shaft drives..."quantity is better than quality" and stick to 6% for the first tank,then down to 4% mineral. Having said that, I noticed it doesn't burn that well here with ethanol fuel and lower octane. What do you usually run on LDs?
  10. Anyways, my little investigation also uncovered something sad...this is the original one, all connections are soldered, where the wire end meets the copper tabs This the CL version: wires are simply resting within those small tabs, you lightly touch them and they pop out...sad. I will be soldering them one by one
  11. I think so...at least in this case or when there is good grounding through the body Anyways, I found the issue! The white wire was pinched by mistake and it was grounding...that's why the lights went out! Oh well, we all make mistakes
  12. Do you guys know any trick to seal the exhaust flange at the cylinder? I remember back in Italy I had a sort of black goop that would seal exhaust couplings...is there any similar product here in US you can suggest? I'm running 6% BelRay mineral for just this first tank to break-in the engine, then will switch to 4% synth. However, I think the issue is really the jetting, it hits the wall at around 70% throttle. I'm way too rich, will try 10 points less and see what happens. It really sprayed everywhere
  13. Are you sure Mike? My horn has 1 wire only, grounded to the horncast through the mounting bolts so I guessed white had to be hot right? Let me check the schematics. Also that would not explain why lights go out when I press the horn button,even without horn connected and white wire being insulated at the horn end
  14. Thanks! I just did my homework and (almost) figured it out. I don't have a battery so I run 12V AC. Horn is 6V AC and like you said it should work. I performed the following tests: -Removed horn -Measured voltage on white wire: 0 V -Turned lights on. When pressing the horn, all lights turn off but engine still turns fine I think at this point the probable cause is a faulty switch assembly..I'll take it apart and see what's going on
  15. I'm in a pickle...totally overlooked this small detail: this is my first 12V conversion on a LD (without battery). Everything went ok except for the horn, I've got a new 6V unit from Casa Lambretta that now does not work on 12V. What do you suggest? I was thinking about 2 options: -Buy a standard 12V horn and install it behind this one -Get a stepdown converter (if it exists) and lower the 12V to 6V at the horn I really doubt I can find a 12V horn with the same dimensions and bolt pattern for an easy swap so those two are the ideas that come to my mind at the moment....
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