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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/19/2017 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Thanks guys! Took her out for the first ride and registered it at the DMV . Not a bad turn around ...
  2. 2 points
    Hey guys, Forrest here with Nexgen Precision Finishes. I'm a Lambretta owner and LCUSA member. First of all, big thanks to Mike for the kind words. It was a pleasure working with you and I hope to do more for you in the future. I'm so glad you're happy with the work we did on your SS180 parts Second, I realize there are shops out there with lower labor rates but they often charge for more time so you end up paying about the same as you do with us. Our rate is $100/hr, which is definitely on the low side for any industrial service in Northern California. We also offer reduced rates for shops and we have many restoration shops who send us work from all over the country all the time. Also our attention to detail is extremely high. The work you get from us will be as flawless as possible. Lastly, we have a special process we use that makes our finishes smoother and brighter than what other vapor blasting shops are putting out. I'm not BSing when I say our work is the best, because I absolutely believe it is. We also offer many complimentary services including machining work, welding, powder coating, polishing, anodizing, plating (cad, zinc, nickel, etc.) and just about any kind of finish you can think of. We're gearing up to be a one-stop-shop for any kind of finishing work one would need or want for their restoration project. That means you can send all of your parts to us for finishing, not just cases for vapor blasting, and each and every part will be finished according to our exacting standards. Please email me if you have any questions as I don't check this forum often due to being very busy. My email address is fj@nexgenpf.com and our website is http://www.nexgenpf.com. Thanks and I look forward to working with more fellow LCUSA members! -Forrest
  3. 1 point
    Easiest way I have found: remove stand, cut off what is left of the rubber feet. Cut of what is left of the pin flush with the stand and finish of with a die grinder, cut off wheel or file to make sure it is exactly flush. Hold stand over something solid to brace it, with a hole or gap for the pin to come through(I use big 'ol Bertha vice). Using the CORRECT DIAMETER DRIFT, hammer the pins out. Paint a little clearcoat on the stand where you got grindy(to stop rust, it's under the boot area and won't be seen) When fitting the new pin, make more of a taper on one end than they come with when purchased(use a grinding wheel or die grinder) this helps them ease back into the stand hole. Stick the boot on, line up the hole, stick the pin in and have at it with you trusty hammer. Have removed hundreds of sets of boots using this method and have yet not had one pin that would not budge. A little copper non-sieze grease on the pin and in the stand hole will make the job of removing the pin next time you have to do the job a lot easier...
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