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  2. What silver? Special? Late SX/early-mid GP/dl, Luna? Late GP/dl? They're all significantly different. For Luna/late SX/early-mid GP/dl then Toyota silver sky metallic 1D6 with a semi-gloss clear coat is pretty close, although a little too metallic. For something just vaguely close to Luna/late SX/early-mid GP/dl then Porsche M7Z 'GT sports silver'.
  3. Yesterday
  4. Last week
  5. I forgot that I had posted this and recently asked Michael Jarema. He responded with Jon Kroge's recommendation of "Rustoleum Painters Touch 2x ultracover" in Metallic Aluminum. I'll have to do a comparison between that and the BBQ silver paint, and share my thoughts.
  6. Great video!! That guy did a great job!
  7. Earlier
  8. Good idea. Yeah just get a set of MB's posters, then you could make your spreadsheet with the corresponding part numbers they use. I got a full set on my last order, awesome reference to have up on the wall at a glance.
  9. You know what would be rad? Take the exploded diagrams out of the parts book, and make a spreadsheet for each with the part and a GOOD description of it, along with a line for notes, such as "have original" or "need to paint," or "need to order" I think Mark Broadhurst is kinda doing something along these lines with his posters.
  10. Hi Todd, Which tire size is this?
  11. pics of the seat plate mate
  12. oh man -old tires on rims..... that is never fun
  13. You are welcome. I have not ridden my '69 DL 150 for over six months now. I need to get out. It is the second picture, red one, in the intro pictures. WW
  14. Thanks, I found those on their site last night as well. Got one on order. Thanks for the input.
  15. There are five used but Innocenti hubs that have been media blasted and turned at Casa Lambretta for $75.00.
  16. I don't know. I have had a couple of Italian rear hubs that were more-than-slightly warped. Just shop with a reputable dealer.
  17. I assume you mean a SIL hub for sale? That’s the only variety i’ve seen available for some time. I remember reading years ago these were of questionable quality, some people reported them being out of round. Is that still the case, or has their reliability improved?
  18. Don't forget to ground the metal part.
  19. Those ridges are pretty deep. I feel that it would be out of specifications if it were machined. Check the many parts suppliers for a price. It can't be that bad.
  20. Pull the plug out and Hold the ceramic part of your spark plug and kick it over. You might have a weak/missing spark and it’s easier to tell if you feel it.
  21. Is that the only way to make it safe/usable at this point? The last one i rebuilt was in far better shape so i didn’t need to get it turned. What’s a fair price for a shop to turn a hub? We don’t have any decent scooter shops around here anymore, so it’s likely going to be a local machine shop.
  22. I presume you are going to get that surface turned(?).
  23. Started rebuilding an original Li150 front drum hub, and have found some slight pitting in the drum surface. It’s localized to one area, and isn’t more than about .5mil deep. How likely is this to cause new brake shoes to skip/grab/seize or some other undesirable effect? TIA.
  24. Update. Let it dry out over night. New plug and still no go. I got a few put puts firing but could not get to idle. GGGGRRRRRRRR
  25. I’ll hook you up with a working bgm stator and flywheel I just pulled off. DM me.
  26. Let the motor dry out over night - carb open, plug out, fuel off and am going to put a new plug in today. Was told by the folks at Scooter Speed about a particular shut down sequence on the stock models that I did not know about. Basically shut the fuel off and don't hit kill switch to prevent fuel from sitting in float or flooding cylinder. Let's see if this helps! If not will replace float. I tend to agree on the 12 volt upgrade. Any suggestions as to which kit for an all stock motor?
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