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Roger Hudnut

Kick It!! My LI125 project

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Thanks.  Maybe Spring Scoot (If it is dry).

WW

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Hello, Happy Thanksgiving to you (in the States) and Happy November 28th to everyone else.

Time fly's and 7 months have slid by in a blink of an eye.  Much has happened over the course of these past months.  I managed to get some things done to my Lambretta LI125 project (images below)

I need help locating an exhaust for my project.  
LI125 S3 - with a Mugello 200 cylinder.  Standard exhaust flange.  I'll ride this scooter in the city 80% of the time.  Highway 20% of the time.  There are plenty of hills in the Pacific Northwest.  The bridges between the state of Oregon and Washington cross over the Columbia river, these bridges are 55-65 MPH highways.  So my target is to have enough power and spunk to get up to speed and cross these things without issue.  If you need more info, please ask.  

Thanks for reading... I've been rubbish at reading your threads. 

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I installed longer studs into my case.  There were a few holes which were partly stripped out.  I chased the threads clear to the bottom and cleaned them all very well.  Then I installed these great studs in with a drop of medium thread lock.

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Here it is, looking good.

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I also found some stainless steel nylock nuts with a broad shoulder.  I think these are much more secure than the wavy washer set up.

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I bought a heating plate to try my hand at installing a bearing with heat.  The trick worked SO GREAT!!!  

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If you know who these two guys are, then you are my kind of people!!!

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Installing the output shaft and all that stuff.

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My first transmission job ever.  Such a cool set up.  Now I know whats going on down there.  I played with this for some time.  Very cool how it all works.

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Here is my big gear.  There are a few chunks missing from of the kick start teeth, but I didn't see a reason to get a new one.

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End plate installed.

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Heat plat trick again, to install the mag housing bearing.  Once again it was a slam dunk.

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All sealed up.  With an internal note of who and when this motor was rebuilt.

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Crankshaft in.  This is my first 2 stroke motor build.  Its so different from a car motor. 

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Mag housing installed.  All new hardware used throughout this build.  All threaded holes were chased and cleaned.

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Output shaft sprocket installed.

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Getting ready to install the clutch drum.

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Surflex!!

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Clutch disks soaked in oil overnight.

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Compressed and retaining ring installed.

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New SIP chain tensioner .  Looks weird but I guess it works.

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New piston, came with the Mugello 200 cylinder.

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New barrel studs.  These are just a bit longer than stock, just to give me a bit more thread to use.

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LTH reed intake housing installed.  Had to remove some meat from the cylinder fins in order for this to fit.

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This was a fun project.  I think I gave enough space so that nothing will rattle even when the motor is hot, but we'll see.

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Final shot, just a different perspective of the fins that had to be altered for this intake to fit.

Thanks for looking.  More photos to come.  Take care.

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I just saw some pics of other motor builds and realized that I did not install my chain tenssioner correctly.

I put the chain over the top, but I guess that the chain goes along the underside.  I'll have to swap that before I go for my first ride.

Thanks LCUSA for posting good pics.  

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4 hours ago, Stu aka S.Hanson #17 said:

Very cool. Looks great! Chain tensioner can be run with chain on top or bottom. Just depends on the chain length and sprockets.

Stu Aka S. Hanson!!!  Thanks for the info boss, I was just about to crack the case open.  Come to think of it, I dont think my chain had enough slack in it for it to fit under the tensioner.  When I first installed it this item I was surprised that it came with no destructions.  I didn't find much about it online either, so I just guessed.

Once I do get this on the road, I'll pay attention to the case.

Cheers.

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Are the shouldered nylock nuts you are using designed to be used without a washer? I'd like to use a similar set up. Never saw anyone else use them and want to make sure I am using them what they where designed for. 

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9 hours ago, Stu aka S.Hanson #17 said:

Are the shouldered nylock nuts you are using designed to be used without a washer? I'd like to use a similar set up. Never saw anyone else use them and want to make sure I am using them what they where designed for. 

The flange nuts I used could be used with or without a washer.  I guess that it comes down to personal experience. I'm sure there will be someone out there who thinks a washer should be used in all cases.  And if I hear a good argument for adding washers to my set up I'll do it.  My understanding is that a flanged nut does not need a washer, because the flange is distributing the pressure across a large area, which is what a washer does.  These flanged nuts have a smooth face like a regular washer.  I've had good luck with flanged nylock nuts in the past.

I got all of this hardware online at BELMETRIC.COM.  This website has all the metric hardware you'd ever need.  They are affordable and ship fast and accurate.  I was very impressed with them.  My local hardware store has a good selection of the standard metric stuff, but when it comes to 7MM I had to find a source.  I think that Bel Metric is a great resource.  Check them out when you get a chance.

Cheers 🍻

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QUESTION:  Do I need a head gasket.

I have the Mugello 200 cylinder.  I can not find the head gasket.  I dont think the kit came with one.  When I search that product out, the photos do not show a head gasket, although other gaskets are included in the kit.

Any info would be appreciated.

Cheers. 🍺

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I found out that the Mugello kit does not come with a head gasket and seems to not require one.  I guess that the crush measurement will determin if you need a head gasket and what kind you need.

I tried the crush test and could not get any crush what so ever.  Is this odd?  If I get no crush is this bad?

Here is what I found on Facebook, in relation to the head gasket.

"All new kits are supplied with a seven stud fixing (three additional studs, nuts and washers, to ensure consistency in head location.  The three studs should be fitted to the cylinder.   All the newest version of the kits do not use head gaskets.  You can tell this by checking your cylinder head.  If this sits into the cylinder, no gasket is needed except where you need to achieve the correct squish clearance (working clearance between the piston crown and cylinder head; necessary for efficient running of the engine). We highly recommend a very thin smear of Threebond sealant where a head gasket is not used.  When fitting your cylinder head, it should then be secured by strong plain M8 washers, followed ideally by our extra length M8 cylinder nuts (including the elongated nut for the purposes of securing the head cowling and as referred to previously).     "                

Later.                                                            

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