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2Tony

Gas tank cleaning suggestions?

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I had a smallframe tank cleaned at a radiator shop many years ago - it was like $25. Recently looked into dunking a nice original tank (that is super rusty on the inside) and it was $75!
Anyone have more cost efficient suggestions? (I hate to just throw it out)  I'd like it CLEAN, then I plan to paint. Thanks in advance.

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Assuming the tank is solid with no pinholes I do 500-1000 B.B. Gun bb’s - dry first to knock off the flaky stuff, then with about 25-35% filled with water.  After getting all the crud off I use a chelating substance that ‘deoxidizes’ the inside (turns it gray).  No coating after that, just gas and 2T.  This really works best for light rust and gas crud, but the folks who turned me on to it swear it will do miracles.  I’ve used it on tools, small parts, etc., with very good results.  Doesn’t turn them black like with naval jelly and a few other rust converters.

Best thing is to send it to Jet 200 or one of the other shops that clean and nickel plate them - considered a permanent fix by most.

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So while we are on this subject.... I think there is a place in Tampa that does it for $25 still - but I better check. IF they still clean them for $25 - it's a good deal.  So if its not lined or coated or whatever - scared it will turn rusty just sitting on the shelf..anyone have experience on this? suggestions to stop that rust from setting in?   or will that be fine after the radiator shop boil?

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This is the ‘rust converter’ I use.  Fairly expensive ($18-30/gallon depending where you get it) but can be used over and over, just strain it through cheesecloth or paint straining cones/mesh.

Supposedly very safe - smells a bit like watered down molasses.

Others here have their favorites - you should be able to find numerous threads about gas tank cleaning/refurbishing on a search.

My $0.02, and worth just about that much...

41E202CF-14CC-4C81-A729-FD37FA2DD778.jpeg

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6 hours ago, ScottWally said:

Assuming the tank is solid with no pinholes I do 500-1000 B.B. Gun bb’s - dry first to knock off the flaky stuff, then with about 25-35% filled with water.  

- Do you put it into the dryer, wrapped in sleeping bags, on no heat? Or??????

 

After getting all the crud off I use a chelating substance that ‘deoxidizes’ the inside (turns it gray).  

- what is the name/brand of the chelating substance???

 

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5 hours ago, k-dog said:

So while we are on this subject.... I think there is a place in Tampa that does it for $25 still - but I better check. IF they still clean them for $25 - it's a good deal.  So if its not lined or coated or whatever - scared it will turn rusty just sitting on the shelf..anyone have experience on this? suggestions to stop that rust from setting in?   or will that be fine after the radiator shop boil?

Kieran - can I send you a few tanks then?  ;)
I've only had 2 tanks dunked in the past, but after I got 'em back, I just  sprayed the inside with WD40....painted exterior....put into my scooter, and added gas/2T.

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Rust removers are a good, cheap alternate. Just make sure you flush your tank several times before riding. That stuff has as a tendency to stick around and slowly bleed out. 

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Kieran - if you are going to leave it on the shelf, put 2 stroke in it and rotate it around every couple of months and keep in a dry place. Do not use wd40 as the amount of oil left behind is not enough to protect against rust, especially after the solvent of the wd40 cleans it. 

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On 3/22/2018 at 5:43 PM, 2Tony said:

Kieran - can I send you a few tanks then?  ;)
I've only had 2 tanks dunked in the past, but after I got 'em back, I just  sprayed the inside with WD40....painted exterior....put into my scooter, and added gas/2T.

I need to see if hes still open- it was a crappy place for many years - but super cheap.  I will go by there this week to see whats up

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On 3/23/2018 at 8:49 PM, TRs said:

Kieran - if you are going to leave it on the shelf, put 2 stroke in it and rotate it around every couple of months and keep in a dry place. Do not use wd40 as the amount of oil left behind is not enough to protect against rust, especially after the solvent of the wd40 cleans it. 

thanks! makes sense   and easy to do

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On 3/22/2018 at 5:46 PM, Barfly said:

Rust removers are a good, cheap alternate. Just make sure you flush your tank several times before riding. That stuff has as a tendency to stick around and slowly bleed out. 

ok

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