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Serveta AC Wiring?

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A friend just brought this Jet by yesterday for me to get it running for him.

He mentioned wanting to convert it to 12v AC. Currently the turn signals have been removed.

Was "running when parked" about 10 years ago. 

Currently the compression is awesome, gas tank needs to be cleaned, and it has no spark.

Is the best thing to do modify the current harness? or is there a new harness I can buy to simplify everything? if I do that, I'll also have to buy new coil, regulator, etc?

Would I need to change the switched and get new perches? What do I do about the weird ignition key in the back?

1st serveta I've tried to get running. Can you guys point me in the right direction. I'm looking for the most functional and cleanest option.

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Four wires off stator are:

2X Yellow

Red (battery)

Green (ignition)

 

leave the green wjere it is connected in the rear junction box. 

Remove the red and tape it off as it is no longer needed. Remove the battery and tape off all red connections at the battery. 

Remove both yellow from the junction box. 

Ground one yellow to the engine cases. 

Replace the 6 volt RECTIFIER with a three post 12 volt AC Regulator. 

 Plug the other yellow into the IN port of the regulator. 

Then take a wire from the OUT port of the regulator and run it to any open spot in the rear junction box other than the green ports. 

This will provide regulated 12V AC current to the wire loom. 

 

Replace all bulbs with similar 12 volt bulbs, and replace the Flasher unit with a 12 volt AC version. 

The horn may also need to be replaced with 12V AC version. 

This set up works VERY WELL 

 

 

 

 

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Awesome Corey, Thanks a ton!

If the turn signals have been removed, do I still need to get a 12v ac flasher unit? or is there a bypass?

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Forgot to mention that if you do use a flasher and have signal hooked up, you need to run a wire from the junction box to the IN port on the flasher unit to act as a source of power for the flashers

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From your photos above, I don't see a junction box on the rear frame leg, so take the wire that comes out of the regulator and just connect it o the brown wire in the main loom. The brown wire is what supplies all electricity to the lighting. 

 

Or you can just directly plug the brown wire into the regulator at that out port

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If you are no longer using the signals, and you can remove the loom that has the red gray orange and blue wires in it completely from the frame. It's no longer needed, and will help clean things up a lot

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I se this is it a later version of the Serveta, and it appears the wiring loom has everything in one loom, earlier versions of this had a separate loom for the battery and Signal wires, from the rest of the wiring for the scooter

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Make sure you ground the third port of the regulator to the frame, and also make sure thereis a wire going from the engine cases to the frame, to act as a ground

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awesome! thanks for the info and details Corey!

If we go with italian style perches and switches, can we still use this harness? or should we ditch it and get a new harness?

Is there anything else I would need to do to make it "italianized"?

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Electrics always seem to take an extra bit of head scratching. 

This seems to be the wiring diagram I'm looking at 

 

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And the ignition switch? There's a inline fuse leading to it. 

Can I just bypass this by connecting the green wire from the stator directly to the ignition cool? 

Otherwise which position is "on" and if I don't have a key how do I turn it on?

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and just to be sure i'm working with a good stator, what readings should I get from the yellow and green wires coming from the stator?

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You can remove all wiring related to the battery and that fuse. 

Id reccomend changing the entire harness to a simplified electronic ignition loom. It's similar to an AC li series 3 loom. 

Three wires and very simple. 

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There is a series of articles in the handlymlinks section and one of them lists reading for Italian coils and stators. 

I'm not sure of readings for Spanish 

just make sure the red motoplat coil is attached to the frame. It needs to be grounded to work properly. 

Motoplat ignitions are very good systems.

Set the timing to 19 degrees which is usually all the way clockwise. Set the points gap properly and you should have an ignition that ticks like a clock. 

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You could have just put a wassle rectifier (single phase rectifier) in there and changed the lamps to 12v. Would have worked with out all the rewiring and is completely reversable back to factory. I did this conversion on my Jet before I sold it. The lights were stupid bright and no dimming when braking. Corey's method works too and is just the AC conversion  

 

Personally, I think having a solid DC electrical system kicks but. I wish all my bikes had batteries. 

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A 1975 Jet200 that I just bought has been wired up like this. It works well except for the brake light, but I think that's another issue, and nothing to do with this conversion.

How does this change convert the stator from 6v to 12v? Also, can you do this with Italian DC stators, or just the Spanish Motoplat ones? 

Thanks

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Contact me though FB and I’ll get you some more info. 

This Conversion uses the dc6v motoplat stator and flywheel and is completely reversible back to 6v DC at any time   

1) Replace the rectifier with a three port refulator

2) Ground ONE of the two yellow wires from the  stator to the engine cases, the other yellow wire goes to the IN port of the regulator

3) Tape off or remove the red battery wire.  It’s not longer used. 

4) Run a wire from the out port of the regulator to the junction box at the rear of the frame/floorboard leg (any spot in that junction is ok for this wire other than the greens that are for the ignition only.  Plug the green from the stator into the green as this is unchanged.)

5) Don’t forget to run a wire from the ground port of the regulator to the frame (I just out a Y in the wire and connect the first yellow to it to ground it out there)

6)Change all bulbs to 12v and possibly the horn. 

Job done.   

The 6v battery, it’s loom, and all that’s related to the battery will no longer be used ansnis not needed. The red battey wires can be taped off.  

You can get the turn signals to work with the ac if you change the flasher unit to a 12v version, and plug the grey hot feed for the signals into the same junction box at the rear frame leg. 

Peter Lundgren did a write up on this conversi n and it is in the files section of the Serveterans FB group.  

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