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darbsclt

Charlotte, NC - Series 1

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You've got some wacky stuff going on with that intake on the cylinder. If it were me, I'd probably yank the jug and match the intake manifold to the jug.

You can match the intake gasket to the intake manifold and lay it on the jug and trace it out. Then bust out the dremel and files and get to work. Make sense?

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You've got some wacky stuff going on with that intake on the cylinder...

 

That's for sure!... I spoke with Gene at S.O. and he said that it sounded Indian; perhaps from a 3-wheeler.  I think he might be right because I even had to remove the engine cover to get the spark plug socket in.  Nothing seemed to line up correctly.

 

Anyway... if I just wanted to patch her up and get her on the road, I'd probably pull out the Dremel & try what you suggest Peter... but my ultimate goal is to do a full restoration.  I've decided, therefore, to box up the engine and send it to Gene.  I haven't heard a bad word about Gene or S.O., so I have faith that it will be done right (with quality parts that fit).

 

This also means that I'll get the gearing changed to something more useful than the 125 set and I might even splurge for an electronic ignition.  While Gene is working his magic... I'll strip down the rest of the bike and paint/coat/fix/replace anything needed.

 

Thanks everyone... my next post should be the Engine boxing...

 

Cheers!

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Don't "maybe" splurge on the electronic ignition, do splurge. I used to be a points man but now I'm electronic all the way. I even bought a varitronic for my D150!

Also consider something better for the top end like an RT195, a Casa 185, a mugello or a Soul Power 195 from Adam Bower. None of these are blindingly fast and will work fine with a standard carb and exhaust or a new scootopia 2/22 and a scootopia clubman. That would give you a bit more touring power whether you want to hit the open road or just keep up on fast roads in town with a bit of extra power on tap if you need it.

Food for thought at least.

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And I will put money on it that the reason you couldn't access the spark plug is because it is still using the original Series 1 cylinder cowling which is too short for any other top end. Anybody that managed to bodge that back over a taller build engine, then I'd definitely be getting the whole lot looked at, probably still got the short and totally useless cylinder studs too. 

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Don't "maybe" splurge on the electronic ignition, do splurge. I used to be a points man but now I'm electronic all the way. I even bought a varitronic for my D150!

Also consider something better for the top end like an RT195, a Casa 185, a mugello or a Soul Power 195 from Adam Bower. None of these are blindingly fast and will work fine with a standard carb and exhaust or a new scootopia 2/22 and a scootopia clubman. That would give you a bit more touring power whether you want to hit the open road or just keep up on fast roads in town with a bit of extra power on tap if you need it.

Food for thought at least.

 

Thanks... we are thinking along the same lines!  Whatever the final set-up is, I'm looking for a good balance between nice touring performance (occasionally with two passengers) and modern reliability.

 

And I will put money on it that the reason you couldn't access the spark plug is because it is still using the original Series 1 cylinder cowling which is too short for any other top end. Anybody that managed to bodge that back over a taller build engine, then I'd definitely be getting the whole lot looked at, probably still got the short and totally useless cylinder studs too. 

 

Yeah... I thought the same thing; I'm sure it's the original cowling and it is a tight fit.  Still, the SP position seemed slightly off also.  

 

It's a shame, really, the bike is really complete, and in nice shape otherwise.  It's just that every "upgraded" part was bottom of the barrel eBay and questionable quality at best (penny wise but pound foolish - as my Landy friends would say).  I'll be interested to hear what Gene finds.

 

Since all of the original parts came with the scoot (head/cylinder/piston/manifold/carb/electrics/etc) I could simply revert it back to a stock Li125.  That doesn't seem sensible, however.  

 

Well, I'm off to drain some oil and take out the engine...

 

Cheers!

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9/27 update...

 

- Engine out & boxed up

- 90% of the scoot is knocked down to pieces and ready for paint prep.

 

I have run into a snag, however... I can't seem to figure out how to get the Throttle Sleeve off of the handlebar.  

Is there a trick to doing this?  It rotates freely, but the compression ring pressed into the sleeve is stubbornly refusing to slide over the handlebar.

 

Suggestions?

 

Cheers!

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There is an internal bushing that the rod set in. You need to knock that out and then the sleeve will come off easily.

 

Thanks Mike...

 

The bushing is out already, along with the throttle rod, etc... I just can't seem to slip the sleeve off of the handlebar.

I've read that some people just dremel it off by cutting down its length (S.O. has replacement Sleeves for $10).  I was just hoping that there might be something I was missing.

 

Cheers!

 

Edit:   Success!... a little more WD40... some vice grips... and brute force, finally shifted the sleeve off.

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Next question...

 

I see that there was, at one time, discussion of a "Tool Loaner Library."  

Did that idea ever get legs?... I'd love to borrow a fork spring compressor.

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Thanks, Skippy.

The kit is new-in-box and I was considering changing sprockets for a higher top speed if a better gear box does not fall in my lap.

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Next question...

 

I see that there was, at one time, discussion of a "Tool Loaner Library."  

Did that idea ever get legs?... I'd love to borrow a fork spring compressor.

 

The short answer is no. We've tried it a few times but it always looses steam. Shipping costs kills it.

 

Your best bet is to borrow one from a near by member or buy one. It's not a bad tool to have. I've had mine for many years, and while I don't use it very often it's great to be able to have it on hand when I need it.

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Your best bet is to borrow one from a near by member or buy one. It's not a bad tool to have.

 

Thanks Mike,

 

That's too bad about the tool loaner program... with so many specialized Lammy tools, it seems that this would be a worthwhile membership perk.

 

I asked around locally and couldn't find one, so I cobbled a "tool" together with stuff lying around the house.  It wasn't pretty, but it got the job done.  I think I might buy one for the re-install.  I wish they were available domestically, the thought of ordering one from India scares me and shipping from the UK can be a little pricy.

 

Cheers!

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I asked around locally and couldn't find one, so I cobbled a "tool" together with stuff lying around the house.  It wasn't pretty, but it got the job done.  I think I might buy one for the re-install.  I wish they were available domestically, the thought of ordering one from India scares me and shipping from the UK can be a little pricy.

 

Cheers!

 

I'd ask Scooters Originali or Jet200 when they expect them in again and see if you can special order one. 

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$60.00 US delivered to your door from Scooter Restorations (UK). I'd put other specialised tools in with it too, like a clutch compressor & holding tool, it wont affect the shipping much at all.

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Looks like Scooter-Speed has one in stock

 

Super... thanks for the heads up... order placed.

 

Now I just have to figure out the best way to get the upper and lower bearing races out of the front tube.

 

I'm reading cautionary stories about removing them, however.  It seems that re-seating them is a nightmare.  

Is this true?

 

Cheers!

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Just an update...

 

- Engine/gearbox was shipped off to Gene at SO last week... (after reading some earlier posts, I was sure to clean it well prior to shipping :))

- Body has been disassembled and was dropped off with a powder coater this afternoon.  We'll probably go with powder on everything except for the side panels, horncast and headset which will get wet paint.

 

Everything seemed in really good (straight) condition. The previous restoration was pretty sloppy, however.  Luckily, however, almost everything seems to be there.

 

I am looking for a few pieces, however...

 

- A front hub back plate. (my current plate is the early version and I'm thinking I might as well replace it with the later, reenforced design)

- A front mud shield. (mine is some strange aftermarket repop, made worse with bondo)

- A steering lock pin (and spring)

 

It looks like most of these are available commercially... but I thought I'd ask the club if anyone had some bits laying around.  I'll also post in the "wanted" section.

 

Cheers!

 

 

 

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You can send your front brake plate to Jon at Jet200 to weld in the thicker gusset. If you want someone closer, Joe Casola of Saints Cycle Works in Chattanooga can also do it. Probably cost the same as an original later style but without tossing your old one out.

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You can send your front brake plate to Jon at Jet200 to weld in the thicker gusset. If you want someone closer, Joe Casola of Saints Cycle Works in Chattanooga can also do it. Probably cost the same as an original later style but without tossing your old one out.

 

Thanks Peter... Great Idea!

 

I thought that this might be possible and I like the idea of keeping the original plate.  I'll check with a local welder/fabricator first and if I strike out, I'll hit up Joe or Jon.

 

Cheers!

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Next question(s)...

 

Has anyone attempted this type of repair?...

 

If so, I'd love to hear about it...

Does anyone do this sort of repair domestically?

 

11820469_884071421641694_733225640_n.jpg

 

Also, Does anyone have any experience with this (or similar products) from SCK...

 

8013162.jpg

 

Cheers!

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Talk to Eric at 2nd ave scooters. He has a great welder for alluminium and can hammer about anything back in to shape.

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Thanks Mike...

 

I talked to Eric and it seems that the one hurdle in the steering lock fix is sourcing a lock pin bushing - the brass piece in picture #2.  I wrote to the guy in Thailand (Facebook Page: Here and Here) and he had a custom piece made for his fix - easy to do over there, I suppose.  

 

Anyway, he's agreed to have some more made up if anyone is interested.  The final price is around $6.85/piece delivered to me.  It might be less with more interest.

 

Right now, I have an order for 6 pieces.  Let me know if anyone else is interested.

 

NOTE:

- I have no association with this guy and have never done business with him.  However, he seems to be a great guy and have a track record of doing some nice work.  I'm willing to trust him.  I'm assured that he will stand behind the product and guarantee its delivery and quality.

Besides, it's 6 bucks... I figured, what the heck?

 

- I'm told that this bushing will only work for S1 & S2 headsets... not with S3 headsets

(I don't have a S3, so I don't know the differences are between the lock-pin housings)

 

Cheers!

 

11947509_520359544782337_564006811520291

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