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th' Cap'n

Keytronic 24 or 27 degrees?

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On reading the instructions, I understood it to mean set my timing at 24 and the Keytronic will adjust it to where it ought to be. A fellow at the Victoria, BC rally told me it should be set at 27 and that using 24 as my starting point my desired running timing will be 3 degrees off.

I dunno. I've been riding it for a couple weeks now and it feels good to me, but it's a new build so I haven't leaned on the throttle much, yet.

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If I were setting up a programmable ignition I would use a strobe in conjunction with a tachometer to identify firing point at every 1000 RPM.

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I have the charts and have read the instructions. I'm using curve 7. But the comment about 27 v 24 has me second-guessing.

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I just checked my timing on my casa kit. I don't have a tach.....so I just it hold it at wide open throttle and make sure my end point is around 16.

 

And then I know its set.

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curve #7 has 7 degs of retard (and 7 advance as you know)

if you set the idle @ 17 BTDC then the ignition advances to 24 BTDC then later in the curve retards 7 degs resulting in the timing being 17 BTDC @ WOT (7000+ rpm)

 

I think you would set the idle @ a lower BTDC if you used a curve that had a greater advance / retard range 

the other curves change the timing by 11 degs both ways which would be too "hot" if your idle was left at 17 BTDC

 

the last time I did my timing check up on the vija GP I marked the case every 5 degs = 15, 20, 25 and made sure the ignition stayed below 24 BTDC and that it in fact did retard back to a nice cool 15ish BTDC

 

that gizmo looks rather nice 

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Instructions say to set your static timing to the recommended set point, not idle...so I think your buddy has it wrong, Cap'n...

 

If you set the static to -24, for curve 7 the 0-1250RPM is then -16 degrees for starting, which transitions to -23 for low RPM performance and then back to -16 to keep WOT from melting down.

 

There are not too expensive timing lights out there that have digital correction for timing which allows entering a value of offset, makes for an easy evaluation of any timing point with only the TDC marked.

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Instructions say to set your static timing to the recommended set point, not idle...so I think your buddy has it wrong, Cap'n...

 

If you set the static to -24, for curve 7 the 0-1250RPM is then -16 degrees for starting, which transitions to -23 for low RPM performance and then back to -16 to keep WOT from melting down.

 

There are not too expensive timing lights out there that have digital correction for timing which allows entering a value of offset, makes for an easy evaluation of any timing point with only the TDC marked.

 

 

?

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Hey Jimmy, let me know what you are ? about and I'll try to explain...

Skippy,

WOT = wide open throttle

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Hey Jimmy, let me know what you are ? about and I'll try to explain...

Skippy,

WOT = wide open throttle

what happened to WFO

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Here's a PDF. Note pages 3 and 7.

http://www.lambrettaspares.com/pages/downloads/smart%20booster.pdf

On page 3, I am using curve 7, recommended for "Touring V3$p@, Lambretta with cylinder kit and optimized pipe," with my stator set to -24 degrees. My setup is a BGM RT225, matched transfers, Dell'Orto PHBH28, and BGM Big Box Clubman, SX200 gearing.

 

This all answers my questions and is indeed material I had referenced when the motor was first built. I was just wondering if anybody else had experience with the Keytronic and had thoughts on the topic.

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I like that Capn.

 

For me personally I wanted to know where my end point was so I did the same as you(on a casa kit)but before I buttoned it up I checked my timing at wide open throttle. I marked my mag at 17 and it read just below.

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I'm planning on purchasing a Keytronik Smart Booster 2 this winter to fit to my GP200 / TS1 240, and maybe another for the street racer. I like that their instructions are very clear and that these aren't just linear retard boxes like Augusto. The preselectable variable timing curves are relavant to scooterists running classic V3$p@s or Lambrettas and there are curves for touring, street racer, and beyond. Keytronik is developing a programmable box with USB port as well.

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It would be awesome if you all could mention any kind of a difference have you really noticed from using this device?

Please give a breakdown/personal analysis of the curve you chose, what you are using your bike for, noticeable starting difference, throttle response, low end power, etc.?

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I am using the Keytronik on the other brand of scooter. It is set to 26 degrees static and running curve 9 curve 8 was a little better, but I was getting a bit of mid range detonation under hard acceleration. I noticed a big increase on bottom end power and it runs much cooler on the freeway as shown by the CHT. I plan to buy 2 more of these for my smallframe and my Lambretta.

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People buy these gizmos because they already have a nice electronic ignition.

If anyone has to buy a complete ignition then they would be a fool if they didn't go for the true and trusted Casa or one of the other well known variable kits.

I love gadgets but not when I have 1000's invested in an engine.... If you can call that an investment...?

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People buy these gizmos because they already have a nice electronic ignition.

If anyone has to buy a complete ignition then they would be a fool if they didn't go for the true and trusted Casa or one of the other well known variable kits.

I love gadgets but not when I have 1000's invested in an engine.... If you can call that an investment...?

True, many of us running tuned Lambrettas have already invested in a good ignition. I'd not like to have to give up my original AF Ducati light weight flywheel anytime soon and with a Kytronik or M-Tech I won't have to but I can still run a variable timing ignition. Also, the BGM ignition is static timing and that runs a very good one piece flywheel. The market for converting a static ignition to variable timing is probably greater than the one for a total (stator + flywheel + CDI) solution.

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Back to the Cap'n's original question, most of the curves for the Kytronik require the timing to be set at 24 degrees BTDC. But there are a few curves that require a starting point of 27 degrees BTDC.

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OK - so everywhere I've been checking is out of these.  Anyone know of who has some in stock?

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OK - so everywhere I've been checking is out of these.  Anyone know of who has some in stock?

I believe scooter speed has them in stock

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No they don't at this time.

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I like the new design and MB's fitting instructions clear up some gaps in the mfg's manual...

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