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  3. Dropping the forks isn't necessary. Yes it makes the rebuild easier but that job can be done in place. The hardest part will be keeping the forks still while you compress the springs. Just tie the bars to one side and you'll be good. If you plan on replacing the cables too, then drop the forks. Having the headset off makes like easy at that point.
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  5. Hello , i'm Cédric from France and i've two GAMAN like this , and i ve only one seat plate for this catch , if you want i can to give you some photo of it ... let me know ... sincerely Ced
  6. Thanks for the feed back. I would be real reluctant to use that style on a painted fork. The paint on my lambretta is not good, and I was going to try and change the fork links without taking the front end off. I’ve never done this before. Is it possible to use the standard spring compressor ( of which I also bought) to take the fork links out without taking to front end off. Thanks for the help scott
  7. Buy the correct tool. That clamp design is trash and will destroy the paint on your forks (even taped up). I bought one years ago from the san diego shop, used it once and saw it rip the paint off the fork leg. I think it's in my junk box now.
  8. Late tv style panels li horn cast and Spanish Li style front mudguard yes. Ill get some photo posted Friday.
  9. I saw that video about a month ago. I have purchased the tool, and plan on using it this weekend. I’ll post how it worked for me. I’m sure it will all be good. I’ll throw in a couple of pictures as well for, all to see.
  10. Yes, please post photos. I am specifically interested in tv side panel examples. So tv style panels with Li horncast and front fender would be factory correct?
  11. No jet 200 or spanish TV200 (of the 6 that have surfaced) ever has had tv style horn casts, however very early 200 models (within the first 200-250 frames and engines) had Italian made INNOCENTI marked engine cases and some, of not all Italian made internal parts. I’ve not seen one in person to know the extent of the Italian made parts used.
  12. Yes li150 spanish special modelsstart to wear a Serveta badge at about frame number 319900 and these have the tv style or Li special side panels. This continues to about frame number 320350. Eibar models from before 319900 have these panels as well. It’s important to note that the Spanish side panels are wider along the top and not identical to Italian panels. Many also sport a red reflector at the rear. All these Scooters has Li type horncasts, and rounded Spanish Li type mudguards. Never TV style. I can post photos as needed.
  13. The general consensus from everything I've read is that 12.5:1 is the ideal for WOT/main jet on a 2 stroke (FYI the stoichiometric ratio for a non-2 stroke gasoline engine is 14.7:1). Probe should be approximately 300-400mm from the exhaust port, or in the 'belly' of the pipe if using an expansion. The probe is (a massive) M18 and needs to be mounted upright (~90°), so I remove the RHS rear footboard while dialing it in. If you want to go down a rabbit hole there is some good threads on the GSF and a bunch of peer-reviewed scientific papers floating around cyberspace.
  14. https://k2customs.co.uk/products/fork-spring-compressor-tool A different solution How to use it:
  15. I believe servetas had li style bodywork, some used sx style side panels , sx/ tv horncast/ headset on some models. Please correct me if I'm wrong. My question, is did any serveta model use tv/li special style bodywork such as side panels?
  16. I've never used an afr gauge but would be interested in details. What kind of number would be a good balance for air/fuel and where/how is the sensor mounted
  17. Spj

    EGT guage

    Thanks for the info...scott
  18. My experience with the Westac EGT gauges is they are good quality, U.S. made, and don't require a power source beyond the K probe. Westach also will will make custom configurations, metric dials and AFR gauges (though I prefer digital for AFR gauges). I've also had experience with Koso EGTs and while not as quality product as the Westach, and require a power source, the benefit is they're easier to read at glance (helpful at WOT), and can be programed to flash a warning light at designated temperatures. My 2 cents, set up carb with a wideband AFR, remove and install EGT programed/marked with a redline of ~650°C (~1200°F for those still using archaic forms of measurement). I find that the top of a legshield spare is reasonable location to mount either a AFR or EGT gauge. Good luck!
  19. I usually clean them up with a hand file so there's no chance of a stray piece of metal breaking loose. Since you're rebuilding the motor, get in there and make it look good.
  20. I think I saw that on a few photos from google, where that area was missing, but looked professionally done instead of accidentally. So, you think it would be ok to use as is? Thank you Mike and Spj for your help with this! I greatly appreciate the comments and help.
  21. that's not really damage. The serveta cases have that super thin lip removed and I've taken out more than I can remember. The metal there is wafer thin and usually cracked. All the actual sealing comes from the rubber seal and the gasket that sits between the bearing and that seal. When I get a chance I'll post a photo of a Serveta block I'm working on and you'll see exactly what I mean.
  22. I’m a welder, and I would have to say no. It is way too contaminated with oil, and it is just a lip that is broke off. Fixing a crack is one thing...a lip or a flange is another. I would think that trying to find a case would be easier and cheaper. Just my thoughts.
  23. Dumb question; Does a Series Two fork also take the lower dust shield underneath the lower fork bearing race (On fork)? I know it uses a dust shield above the upper race (On frame). Sticky says no -- only on the series 3. Before I put this lower race on I'd like to be sure. One of these V
  24. Rebuilding my first Lambretta. Took apart engine this weekend and found some damage near the crankshaft. Any ideas if this is repairable and how to do so?
  25. Not really sure what other people do, but I suspect since s.i.p. speedos have egt and c.h.t. gauge compatibility , that's what is most common. I have been using a westach 2 inch gauge for 15 to 20 years. I think if you have a tuned motor for touring or race, it is a must have, at least for set up. I prefer egt to cht. I can tell immediately what a change in carburation, plugs, timing, compression and weather does. Westach egt gauge is what I use. You will have to buy a thermocouple as well. I suggest the 1 1/4 inch clamp on probe. They do sell weld on sensor lugs that the thermocouple can be screwed into. They also sell a double 2 inch gauge for egt and cht. Be sure you get a gauge that works in the correct heat range. 100 to 1900 works well. How and where you mount it is up to you. I modified a second headset top, so I can switch back to a stock look. I have seen people using modified under headset mirror mount brackets www.westach.com https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/exhaust+gas+temperature+sensor+_5001egtj
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