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  1. Today
  2. @k-dogLife gets hectic sometimes. Theres still a few of us North Jersey guys that hang out. A couple of us just went camping at the Demons old rally spot in upstate, ny this weekend. It got us all thinking @Joe Barthlow Thank you!
  3. Yesterday
  4. The salt goes through many changes over the course of the day as the temp changes. Somewhat solid in the morning to greased carpet, every run feels different, you know when your on a good one! I ran 20/47 on Indian 200 gearbox, 60/115 Monza 225 I forgot what Mike ran, but I know he had his 4 speed in there. I haven’t weighed my scoot yet but I did drop 20 lbs and it made a big difference. Good times Stu. I’m going to make a few changes and try to get this 90mph scoot up 10 more for next year.
  5. Try Jet 200 Lambretta Works Scooters Originale Who have I forgotten in the US? WW
  6. Last week
  7. What does it feel like riding on that surface? 4 or 5 speed gearbox's ? What stroke crank self destructed? Love the pictures! Bikes look well put together. Great job! Todd, how much does your bike weigh?
  8. Hi there. Im a new Lambretta owner and was wondering where i can buy front and back racks for Lambretta v200. Thank you!
  9. Playing for.. LCPoland LSB LCVPoland decal LCBelgium Decal El Siambretta Decal And pocket calendar You see the picture- Caption away!
  10. A few more photos. Hard to believe this was a week ago. I got the post Bonneville blues. I hope some other LCUSA members come out next year.
  11. thanks for the input guys -- first of all, the pinging sound was the caps popping off the studs on my rims, when i pulled the rim i noticed the holes were bored out (you can see in the pics). no other issues w/engine or anything. second: the octopus hub i was looking at would fit the stock layshaft -- there is another octopus version that uses a new layshaft with a bunch of teeth instead of the stock 6 sided pattern. it isn't that expensive when you look at buying an Italian made hub instead of one from India. Where does everyone get parts? Jet200? third: duly noted on using using washers (and quality studs), didn't realize you could use washers on these types of studs -- these were on the scoot when i purchased it and everything else is Italian, so i don't think these were cheap. also, agreed i will have to get new brake pads as you can see from the pic, they are compromised. four: thanks for info on oil seal, I am optimistic now to try and fish it out and inspect it and the bearings w/out having to open up case.
  12. That 73 pinto rocked. The whole family drove it at one time or another and it sounded great.
  13. Also, the first Riverside official support vehicle
  14. Nice !!! Thanks for sharing the pictures . Looks like it was quite the experience . Whats not to love about a two door wagon . Even if its a pinto
  15. Going to start dropping photos here as soon as I sort them out. For now here's a teaser. As far as we can tell this is the first time a Lambretta has ever run on the salt here. I blew out my crank big end (cracked the case and everything) on my first run but don't care. It was a blast. Todd kicked but with a respectable 87.6 mph and I pulled a 81.7mph on his bike. Jay nailed 77mph with his full body S2 running a quatrini 210 Special thanks to Jay Keel, Planet Lambretta, Deanspeed and the LCUSA. All of your help and support made this possible.
  16. No point in the octopus unless you run the shaft with it, and as Corey pointed out it’s probably overkill anyways. Tempermental is not a good description of these things. It’s acting the way it is due to some faults. Pictures help with the diagnosis.
  17. Thanks for the goodie box!!! 👍🏻
  18. Earlier
  19. It does sound like there could be a couple of issues. For the hub studs, always use a touch of antiseize grease on the threads. This way the nut will go fully home. It will not bind up and give you a false tightened. Been running mine like this for a few years (after the same thing happened to me) and have had no issues or loose hardware since. Rear main seal is easy to change. 4 nuts and washers with the two seal plates. Use a small dental type hook and pull the old seal. Replace with new seal. Once that’s all good then start looking for the ping. Plug checks etc.
  20. Also a picture is worth 1000 words. Post a photo of what you describe has happened to your hub. There may be something going on we can’t see through your description The PINGING sounds you describe may be an entirely different set of things going on.
  21. The stud problem you have is caused from the nuts not being tight. Make sure you are using M8 nyloc nuts and m8 wave washers in the hub studs. Make sure you have decen hub studs in the hub that are not made of cheese like some cheap East Asian reproduction studs that have been know to shear off the first time you tighten the wheel rim. You donnit need to open the engine to replace the rear hub oil seal. Hlremive the hub and prolerly clean all that area with acetone or brake cleaner. Change the seal. Ensure that there are no cracks around the area where the bearing seats in the engine cases. Things need t be very clean to see things properly. Inspect very carefully. Some reproduction rear hub bearings leak around the outside of the bearing race between the case and the bearing. Sometimes this can be stopped by using loc tire sealant when you install the bearing. There have been bad batches of rear hub bearings that simply don’t fit the casss properly and they are paper weights. First off: remove the hub and investigate the source of the oil. Inspect the splines in the hub core and if damage replace the hub and the cone that it seats on Secnd: clean the hub and replace the oil seal and the brake shoes. If thebshies have seen oil they are contaminated and need to be replaced. People use brake cleaner and say that shoes are reusable. These are your brakes, replace the shoes. Third: replace the hub studs, you will need a 12mm socket probably ground down flat on the chamfered edge inorder to grab the stud properly. They are reversed and thread in backwards. https://scooterfix.ca/products/lambretta-hub-stud-19044002-each Lastly replace the rim and get new nyloc nuts and washers on that rim and the hub. replace all 8 of each. While the rim is off of the tire consider changing the inner tube if its older, shows rust from the rim, or is pinched in any way shape or form. Figure out what’s causing the problems before throwing money at expensive parts that may not solve anything at all.
  22. My thoughts are that this is a solution to a problem that does not exist. Unless your engine is producing 20+ HP at the rear wheel this type of hub is not needed.
  23. Hello All -- New here and looking forward to swapping war stories as I'm here in Kentucky all alone with my temperamental Li 150 III... My latest adventure found me cruising around about 35 mph when I heard some metallic pinging sounds from under my seat and then a short while later my rear tire starts fish-tailing... sketchy. Turns out I sheared off the studs holding my rear hub on my rear rim. I have a couple of questions about what I'm facing: 1) rear hub had some external chatter on fins, what the heck would do that? 2) saw a decent bit of oil around my brake pads, and inside the hub area -- wondering if that means my oil seal might be leaking in front of the layshaft bearing? (i'd REALLY rather not replace that because it seems like I'd have to open the box to pop out from other side?) 3) i'm thinking about springing for the Casa Lambretta "octopus" 8 stud rear hub and accompanying rim (or maybe just an 8 hole wide rim) anyone have experience with that? I don't want to get the new hi-speed layshaft that has the new spline (teeth) pattern that's out there due to expense and hassle... am I missing? thanks in advance guys, Ed
  24. congrats - got one more to post is a few days
  25. Im coming Harry Potter! I’ll be right there!
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